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will this fit into a 70s 454 block or is this for the one piece rear seal block only? Also can you get enough clearance on the block with std BBC rods? How about Mopar rods built to run on bbc cranks? Will std mopar forged rods work on this crank BTW or are they too thick to machine for fit and still be reliable for only occasional race use?
will this fit into a 70s 454 block or is this for the one piece rear seal block only? Also can you get enough clearance on the block with std BBC rods? How about Mopar rods built to run on bbc cranks? Will std mopar forged rods work on this crank BTW or are they too thick to machine for fit and still be reliable for only occasional race use?
I don't know but a 454 block will take a 4.250 or 1/4 inch stroker crank. It can also be done with stock rods. A 496 is a 454 with a .060 overbore. The cost after the crank and places like Ohio crank off some cheap cranks is exactly the same as building a normal 454.
I went with a 1/4 inch stroker crank but at the same time upgraded to .200 longer rods to make the distance from the wrist pin to the oil ring greater for stability of the oil ring.
Mopar rods are longer but a different diameter so you would need a special grinding on the crank.
thanks Norvell. I'm going with a 502+ I bought the other day but I'll keep it in mind for the 454 I have lying around. Still would like to know about the rear seal.
I went with a 1/4 inch stroker crank but at the same time upgraded to .200 longer rods to make the distance from the wrist pin to the oil ring greater for stability of the oil ring.
I don't follow the math, here. Normally a 1/4" stroker would, with no other changes, need a piston with a deck height .125" shorter than stock, moving the pin closer to the ring pack, by that distance. The .200 longer rod with the 1/4" stroker should move the pin upward .325". How does this "make the distance from the wrist pin to the oil ring greater"? Is your oil ring below the pin?