I was thinking of installing a rev kit on my solid roller cam instead of using heavier springs. What is the reliability factor of rev kits used on the street?
Ed

 

I first saw rev kit's in the mid to late 80's. They were the best thing since sliced bread. If you have valve train failure. You never trash the block. Because the rollers stay on the cam.

I have 195 lbs springs with a mech roller. I have new light weight Crane spring mech rollers as opposed to arm type. So if a push rod/rocker/valve goes out the block is fine.

It all adds to the spring equasion. Guys with the heavy HR's can get a few more 100 RPM.

IMO - pay a couple of a $100 or pay thousands later. Mine adds up to 225 lbs overall. I don't even think about 7600. I put my motor together this spring and 7000 miles later it still runs nice.

Maybe you did not know I have .635/644 lift less .018 lash

3.750 stroke

 

gkull,
Thanks for the reply. The reason for the rev kit is, I have Edlebrock RPM heads with 3/8 rocker studs. The springs that came with the heads are too light for my mild solid roller[120#x330#]. The springs that Comp Cam is recommending[155#x420] might be hard on the 3/8 studs and changing the studs to 7/16 and the roller rcokers is a lot of work. I thought the rev kit would be better on the valve train and less work. What is the largest spring pressure that can be used with a 3/8 rocker stud in a aluminun head?
Ed
Ed

 

Have you run into valve float yet? I would not run without a stud girdle. You would be amazed at how much deflection even 7/16th studs have. Springs degrade with time. So I would run the 155# as recommended and Crane cams makes one of the better stud girdles on the market because it is so strong for $160 in Jegs. For whatever reason I didn't look at the Comp girdle.

With the stud girdle you get 16 locking Allen locking nuts. I have a combo of Crower and Comp cams chromemoly RR's. The problem is the Crane cams nuts are bigger diameter than the machined face on the rocker shafts. So I had to have a machinist friend turn down each nut .040 in diameter.060 high. It makes for a very positive seating shouldered nut on the rocker and stud shafts. A smarter person would have just bought Crane gold RR's that they were made for.

I tried to e-mail you, but your listed AOL add. is bad or something.

It's true that a rev kit will give you a few 100 extra rpm until you go into valve float. But there is two kinds of so called valve float and they are lifter float which a rev kit combats or valve float where the valve is so big and heavy that at high rpm it's downward momentum causes it to loose contact with the rocker arm. This is very deadly to a motor. Several of my motors have had valve and piston contact. Some times you don't even know it happened until you pull the motor down and you see evidence of impact dings. That is why I chose to run titanium intake valves and titanium retainers. I don't think they weight half as much as steel.



[Modified by gkull, 9:25 AM 9/4/2001]

 

gkull,
I am getting valve float at about 5200 rpm. This makes it very difficult to drive because the engine is still making power at that rpm. I am afraid the lifers are losing contact with the cam and may break a wheel. I spoke to Edlebrock and they confirmed that the spings were to light for the solid roller. I to heard alot of talk in the 60's about the rev kits and how they would allow hydraulic lifers to float. I never heard of them failing or any negitives with them.
I dont know if my studs will handle the extra pressure form the heavy springs.
I do drive the car alot about 5000 miles a year, so I dont want to compermise durability. Any suggestions.
Ed

 

I got my rev kit through Summit and it seems to me that it was something like $240. It's really painless to install just remove the intake manifold, loosen all of the rockers, and pull the pushrods.

You might enquire from different manufactures what the spring rates are for the rev. kit springs. Foalt at 5200 I would want a stronger version.

 

What holds that upper plate in place in the rev kit?

89'

 

The one's I've seen have counter-bored holes just 1/8"-1/4 deep and the spring goes into the c-bore and holds it in place with the natural spring pressure between the lifter boss and the plate.
:cheers:

 

I have a set of solid rollers and matching rev kit...just sitting on my bench...no plans to use them :sleep:

<Ahem...$150....Ahem>

 

BBA,
Thanks for the offer, but I decided to go with the springs that comp cam recommends for this cam.
Ed

 

BBA,
If you feel like getting ride of those sold roller lifters and git.. I've got a 150... I'm looking at getting a sold lifter cam and I still need lifters!!

Thanks,
Shane

 

Shane,
I am really happy the way the car runs, it just runs out of revs with the weak springs from Edlebrock. The noise is no factor as I have 3" side with Moroso race mufflers. I have also found that the solids really dont require much attention. Thanks for the offer.
Ed