Nodular iron crank strength
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From: Darwin, Australia NT
Nodular iron crank strength
Im toying with putting together a budget Gen VI 540, 10/1 hyd roller aming for 600-650 bhp with a rpm limit of 6000.
Car is only street driven, will never be raced and never see N2O.
Does anyone have an opinion on a Ohio crank nodular iron crank in this situation?
I know Ive pushed OEM small block iron cranks with plenty of nitrous and not had a failure.
Car is only street driven, will never be raced and never see N2O.
Does anyone have an opinion on a Ohio crank nodular iron crank in this situation?
I know Ive pushed OEM small block iron cranks with plenty of nitrous and not had a failure.
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It's one of those areas where you're spending so much already, it seems smart to go to the forged steel one. You ARE adding a good bit of stroke to the combo.
But that said. I have a buddy with a homebuilt 502. He used a new GM block, a used cast iron GM 454 crank, 3/8" stock rods and some forged pistons. He also used a nasty Lunati hyd roller cam and heavily ported GM iron ovals. It made just over 625 hp on engine dyno. It runs 10.0's@132 in his '67 Camaro on pump gas and no boost or bottle. He shifts in the 6500 rpm range and has run it for years without touching it.
Just gotta decide how much you want to gamble..but it would probably be fine for what you are planning.
JIM
But that said. I have a buddy with a homebuilt 502. He used a new GM block, a used cast iron GM 454 crank, 3/8" stock rods and some forged pistons. He also used a nasty Lunati hyd roller cam and heavily ported GM iron ovals. It made just over 625 hp on engine dyno. It runs 10.0's@132 in his '67 Camaro on pump gas and no boost or bottle. He shifts in the 6500 rpm range and has run it for years without touching it.
Just gotta decide how much you want to gamble..but it would probably be fine for what you are planning.
JIM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 535
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From: Darwin, Australia NT
Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
It's one of those areas where you're spending so much already, it seems smart to go to the forged steel one. You ARE adding a good bit of stroke to the combo.
But that said. I have a buddy with a homebuilt 502. He used a new GM block, a used cast iron GM 454 crank, 3/8" stock rods and some forged pistons. He also used a nasty Lunati hyd roller cam and heavily ported GM iron ovals. It made just over 625 hp on engine dyno. It runs 10.0's@132 in his '67 Camaro on pump gas and no boost or bottle. He shifts in the 6500 rpm range and has run it for years without touching it.
Just gotta decide how much you want to gamble..but it would probably be fine for what you are planning.
JIM
But that said. I have a buddy with a homebuilt 502. He used a new GM block, a used cast iron GM 454 crank, 3/8" stock rods and some forged pistons. He also used a nasty Lunati hyd roller cam and heavily ported GM iron ovals. It made just over 625 hp on engine dyno. It runs 10.0's@132 in his '67 Camaro on pump gas and no boost or bottle. He shifts in the 6500 rpm range and has run it for years without touching it.
Just gotta decide how much you want to gamble..but it would probably be fine for what you are planning.
JIM
I've got a forged 4" crank I could run, sacrifice a few cubes but I could run it higher with say a small soild roller and probably make more power. The TKO with scattershield and McLeod street twin clutch is stretching my budget.
