427 small block?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,048
Likes: 5
From: "cutesy" TN
Sounds like the answer is no. They've all been professionally built and they'd rather keep it a secret and charge you big bucks.
There must be a standard recipe to do this.
I have a Rodeck 350+ block i would like to install a max stroke crank.
What i understand of it is.
you need a small base circle cam and/or raised cam location.
Wider pan rails and/or grinding on the pan rails for clearance. How much can you grind before you ruin the block???
Do you have to grind on the rods???
Someone want to fess up?
There must be a standard recipe to do this.
I have a Rodeck 350+ block i would like to install a max stroke crank.
What i understand of it is.
you need a small base circle cam and/or raised cam location.
Wider pan rails and/or grinding on the pan rails for clearance. How much can you grind before you ruin the block???
Do you have to grind on the rods???
Someone want to fess up?
Don't grind the rods.
If you grind too much on the block you will get into the water jacket, not a big deal with an aluminum block. Just weld it back.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 12,468
Likes: 1,548
From: Camp Verde AZ
C1 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
2017 C1 of Year Finalist
I finally installed my 427 SB.
Here are links to my posts and pictures.
Synopsis: Dart Little M block, 3.85" stroke, 4.190" bore, callies crank, Manley LW H beam rods, JE pistons, 10.8:1 CR, Comp hyd roller can, about .550" lift, 230/236 duration at .050", 113 LSA, 109 degree intake centerline, 1.050" base circle on cam and rods were cam cut by Manley for a little extra clearance, Dart Pro1 CNC heads, custom EFI, stock valve covers and oil pan, 15 pound L88 flywheel, pistons weigh 420 grams, rods weigh 585 grams (from memory) motor looks like any run of the mill SB.
Doug
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1894497
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1887480
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1881283
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1874381
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1875193
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1866553
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1863912
Here are links to my posts and pictures.
Synopsis: Dart Little M block, 3.85" stroke, 4.190" bore, callies crank, Manley LW H beam rods, JE pistons, 10.8:1 CR, Comp hyd roller can, about .550" lift, 230/236 duration at .050", 113 LSA, 109 degree intake centerline, 1.050" base circle on cam and rods were cam cut by Manley for a little extra clearance, Dart Pro1 CNC heads, custom EFI, stock valve covers and oil pan, 15 pound L88 flywheel, pistons weigh 420 grams, rods weigh 585 grams (from memory) motor looks like any run of the mill SB.
Doug
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1894497
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1887480
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1881283
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1874381
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1875193
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1866553
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1863912
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 3,099
Likes: 0
From: PITTSBURGH PA
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
a 427 is normally a 4 inch stroke in a 4.125 bore 400 base block most people bore them 30 over which would be 434
you can also stuff a 4 inch crank in a 350 base block we bored them 40 over gave us 410
so the normal way to approach this build would use 400 base block and base block i mean either stock 400 ,dart or motown ive personally used both stock 400s and darts exclusively
some kind of stroker base rod i prefer i beam over h beams for obvious reasons ive used crower,olliver ,scat ,lunati stroker i beam rods and they will give you less headache in the future when assembling this thing
the other thing you should and must do is a small base circle cam
depending on cam size and rod combo you might get away with no grinding on the rods or you might have to grind on them
just make sure you grind on them before the ballence job is done
pistons ive used je,brc,diamond,srp,wiseco,ross any of the higher end stuff works real good no trw stuff here
cranks ive used eagle and scat exclusivelly never had a problem yet knock on wood
heads you will want the best 23% you can find and afford if you want all out you can go 18% or 15% or even canted valve setup anything other than 23% stuff will set you back an additional 5-7 thousand dollars
ive destroyed a lot of big block cars with 23% stuf so they can and will run when done properly the key word is properly
you can also stuff a 4 inch crank in a 350 base block we bored them 40 over gave us 410
so the normal way to approach this build would use 400 base block and base block i mean either stock 400 ,dart or motown ive personally used both stock 400s and darts exclusively
some kind of stroker base rod i prefer i beam over h beams for obvious reasons ive used crower,olliver ,scat ,lunati stroker i beam rods and they will give you less headache in the future when assembling this thing
the other thing you should and must do is a small base circle cam
depending on cam size and rod combo you might get away with no grinding on the rods or you might have to grind on them
just make sure you grind on them before the ballence job is done
pistons ive used je,brc,diamond,srp,wiseco,ross any of the higher end stuff works real good no trw stuff here
cranks ive used eagle and scat exclusivelly never had a problem yet knock on wood
heads you will want the best 23% you can find and afford if you want all out you can go 18% or 15% or even canted valve setup anything other than 23% stuff will set you back an additional 5-7 thousand dollars
ive destroyed a lot of big block cars with 23% stuf so they can and will run when done properly the key word is properly
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,112
Likes: 2
From: Peoria IL
a 427 is normally a 4 inch stroke in a 4.125 bore 400 base block most people bore them 30 over which would be 434
you can also stuff a 4 inch crank in a 350 base block we bored them 40 over gave us 410
so the normal way to approach this build would use 400 base block and base block i mean either stock 400 ,dart or motown ive personally used both stock 400s and darts exclusively
some kind of stroker base rod i prefer i beam over h beams for obvious reasons ive used crower,olliver ,scat ,lunati stroker i beam rods and they will give you less headache in the future when assembling this thing
the other thing you should and must do is a small base circle cam
depending on cam size and rod combo you might get away with no grinding on the rods or you might have to grind on them
just make sure you grind on them before the ballence job is done
pistons ive used je,brc,diamond,srp,wiseco,ross any of the higher end stuff works real good no trw stuff here
cranks ive used eagle and scat exclusivelly never had a problem yet knock on wood
heads you will want the best 23% you can find and afford if you want all out you can go 18% or 15% or even canted valve setup anything other than 23% stuff will set you back an additional 5-7 thousand dollars
ive destroyed a lot of big block cars with 23% stuf so they can and will run when done properly the key word is properly
you can also stuff a 4 inch crank in a 350 base block we bored them 40 over gave us 410
so the normal way to approach this build would use 400 base block and base block i mean either stock 400 ,dart or motown ive personally used both stock 400s and darts exclusively
some kind of stroker base rod i prefer i beam over h beams for obvious reasons ive used crower,olliver ,scat ,lunati stroker i beam rods and they will give you less headache in the future when assembling this thing
the other thing you should and must do is a small base circle cam
depending on cam size and rod combo you might get away with no grinding on the rods or you might have to grind on them
just make sure you grind on them before the ballence job is done
pistons ive used je,brc,diamond,srp,wiseco,ross any of the higher end stuff works real good no trw stuff here
cranks ive used eagle and scat exclusivelly never had a problem yet knock on wood
heads you will want the best 23% you can find and afford if you want all out you can go 18% or 15% or even canted valve setup anything other than 23% stuff will set you back an additional 5-7 thousand dollars
ive destroyed a lot of big block cars with 23% stuf so they can and will run when done properly the key word is properly
Why do you prefer I-beam? Was that a typo? H-beams have more clearance.
What kind of rod lengths are possible with 4" stroke cranks? Are 5.7 or 5.85 possible for better pistons w/o putting the pin in the rings?
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Instructor
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 163
Likes: 1
From: Idianapolis Indiana
Yeah 427 small blocks do exist. The max streetable displacement I believe is 454 cu in depending on the block. There is an aluminum block out there with a 10.5 inch deck height(stock chevy is 9.025 in) so displacement is only really limited by clearence to the block, camshaft and your cyl head setup. If I'm not mistaken there is a circle track dirt racing class that races 500 cu in small blocks. Just depends on how much money you have. As stated earlier you cant get heads that flow enough to compete with the big blocks at higher rpms, but if you can run some kind of forced induction you should be able to pull it off. The main attraction to 415+" small blocks (so im told) is the weight of the rotating assembly and size of the overall package. My dad and I am working on a dual turbo 427 sbc project for my c4 so I'll be sure to post when the build starts.
Last edited by cmcbunch; Feb 11, 2008 at 11:38 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 993
Likes: 3
From: Iowa
With any of the high end Brodix heads (canted valve, db 2000, gb 2000) we can get over 400 cfm of airflow @0.800 lift. Enough to get 410 sprints and 434's to 9000+ RPM with great power. Add to that the very light and compact package these all aluminum engines make and you have an engine that can not be touched in any application other than drag racing. Awesome, it just comes down to money!
