Well we got tired of pissing around with the engine after leakdown test showed 2 cyl's w/60% leakdown. Figuring we could do no worse than the guy who built this bug sprayer, we pulled it over the weekend and gues what we found.

The builder, *cry see my post in c-3 section under the ebay crook thread* goofed when he installed the rings. Thats what I get for saving a few bucks, eh, buy from a shop on e-bay with a hi rating and no neg. remarks and still get pooched!

Anyways the cyl's in question... Well we start to pull the pistons and guess what jumps rite out at me, the rings! Not staggered all lined up nice and pretty. Well that explains the smoking and 60% leakdown!

Well we check everything over and the crosshatch is good and bearings are good nothing unusual for a engine just broke in, except for the rings. We then start looking over the valves and pop's starts checking them, and he determines that who ever did the valve job was no pro. The valves were all misaligned and was a subpar job to say the least.

We ordered new bearings, rings and said to hell with the 882 heads, lets just drop on some sportsman II's and leave it at that. So once I get the new parts we are going to clean everything all up lube it all down and put her back together!

Thx for everyones contributions on the subject b4, I am making progress now at least. :crazy:


[Modified by 1976C3, 3:32 PM 11/20/2001]

 

Sorry to read about your problems, but I'm glad you found the causes.

I just hope the guy who posted that it doesn't matter where you place the ring end gaps reads your message.

Since you found such a sub-standard build up, I'd be suspicious of EVERYTHING.

As a minimum I'd:

1. Put each ring in it's bore and check the end gap. If the gaps are too big, trash them and buy a new set.

2. Check the ring set to make sure you've got plasma-molys and not cast

3. Check the rod and main bearing clearances

4. Make sure the oil pump pickup is either welded to the pump, is pinned or has a bolt-on brace; position of pickup from bottom of pan (1/4"-3/8")

5. Remove the oil pump cover and look for any nicks on the teeth of the gears

6. Verify torque on rod and main caps

7. End play on crank

8. Condition of timing chain and gears

Depending on what you find as you go along, you may want to have a reputable machine shop go over the entire short block assembly. I know you don't want to have to repeat this process.

Hope this helps.

Jake


[Modified by JAKE, 1:55 PM 11/22/2001]

 

I'm still not sure, even with the ring gaps lined up you should have 60% leakdown.
Particularly if the end gap is correct.
Keep us informed of your progress, I'm curious now :yesnod: :cheers: