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Valve Issue

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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 10:38 PM
  #1  
Disque's Avatar
Disque
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Default Valve Issue

I adjust valves the old-school way (yeah - the dirty, grimey, smokey way - with the engine running.

After finding zero lash I only turn the rocker-nut 1/8 turn. (Anything more and the car runs rough, hot and has trouble pulling out from a dead stop)

At 1/8 the car idles perfect, has amazing power, no smoke and runs cool. - The problem is, after a day or two a valve or two will loosen up and start ticking - which has me going out and buying more valve-cover gaskets and starting over.

New plugs, new air-filter, new fuel filter, removed the choke plate, changed oil, 71k miles, 1980 350,...

Any thoughts are appreciated.
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Old Aug 13, 2008 | 12:49 PM
  #2  
Manuel Azevedo's Avatar
Manuel Azevedo
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Concord Calif
Default

Originally Posted by Disque
I adjust valves the old-school way (yeah - the dirty, grimey, smokey way - with the engine running.

After finding zero lash I only turn the rocker-nut 1/8 turn. (Anything more and the car runs rough, hot and has trouble pulling out from a dead stop)

At 1/8 the car idles perfect, has amazing power, no smoke and runs cool. - The problem is, after a day or two a valve or two will loosen up and start ticking - which has me going out and buying more valve-cover gaskets and starting over.

New plugs, new air-filter, new fuel filter, removed the choke plate, changed oil, 71k miles, 1980 350,...

Any thoughts are appreciated.


Well you may have more than one problem here. First the main reason for running a hydrolic(sorry on the spelling!) lifter adjuster down any amount is to put the piston in the lifter in the middle of its travel. This allows for its movement to take up an amount of wear without your ticking sound. Now when you do your ajustment with the engine running it will shake and miss until the lifter bleeds its self down and allows the valve to seat again. Should only take less than a min. to do this when running, seconds really. Now if your adjustment is changeing in a few days you could have lobs wearing down, rocker studs pulling up,lifter bore wear, very low oil presure all of can create your ticking sound from incresed clearance at the valve tip. Check the height of all rocker studs they need to be the same. Check rocker movement up and down for valve lift, they need to be the same on all intake but exhaust could be different but be the same to them selves. You also need at lease 10lbs oil presure at idle to maintain lifter pump up. Sorry for making this long but hope something here may help you.
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Old Aug 13, 2008 | 06:27 PM
  #3  
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Disque
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Default

It's the number 1 cylinder lossening up. - The threads on the #1-exhaust rocker stud are twice as much as the other valves. All other are the same.

I just yanked the DS-cover and adjusted all valves at 1/2-turn. - Now I am replacing all nuts with lock-nuts and will let you know if the problem returns.

Oil pressure is at a steady 40lbs.

Thank you for your time.... / I am guessing - a bad lifter... and hopefully not cam-wear. - It only has 71k miles on it.


Will keep you posted


John





Originally Posted by Manuel Azevedo
Well you may have more than one problem here. First the main reason for running a hydrolic(sorry on the spelling!) lifter adjuster down any amount is to put the piston in the lifter in the middle of its travel. This allows for its movement to take up an amount of wear without your ticking sound. Now when you do your ajustment with the engine running it will shake and miss until the lifter bleeds its self down and allows the valve to seat again. Should only take less than a min. to do this when running, seconds really. Now if your adjustment is changeing in a few days you could have lobs wearing down, rocker studs pulling up,lifter bore wear, very low oil presure all of can create your ticking sound from incresed clearance at the valve tip. Check the height of all rocker studs they need to be the same. Check rocker movement up and down for valve lift, they need to be the same on all intake but exhaust could be different but be the same to them selves. You also need at lease 10lbs oil presure at idle to maintain lifter pump up. Sorry for making this long but hope something here may help you.
Reply
Old Aug 19, 2008 | 02:40 PM
  #4  
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Disque
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Default Found the issue!



The problem was - the cam.
Went a little over stock and also replaced the timing chain.
She's running great!
Thanks for your time.


Originally Posted by Manuel Azevedo
Well you may have more than one problem here. First the main reason for running a hydrolic(sorry on the spelling!) lifter adjuster down any amount is to put the piston in the lifter in the middle of its travel. This allows for its movement to take up an amount of wear without your ticking sound. Now when you do your ajustment with the engine running it will shake and miss until the lifter bleeds its self down and allows the valve to seat again. Should only take less than a min. to do this when running, seconds really. Now if your adjustment is changeing in a few days you could have lobs wearing down, rocker studs pulling up,lifter bore wear, very low oil presure all of can create your ticking sound from incresed clearance at the valve tip. Check the height of all rocker studs they need to be the same. Check rocker movement up and down for valve lift, they need to be the same on all intake but exhaust could be different but be the same to them selves. You also need at lease 10lbs oil presure at idle to maintain lifter pump up. Sorry for making this long but hope something here may help you.
Reply
Old Aug 20, 2008 | 03:28 PM
  #5  
Manuel Azevedo's Avatar
Manuel Azevedo
Burning Brakes
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 4
From: Concord Calif
Default

Originally Posted by Disque


The problem was - the cam.
Went a little over stock and also replaced the timing chain.
She's running great!
Thanks for your time.

Well glad you got her running well now!
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