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How do I go about getting the cam to line up at TDC with the crank? Is the cam button the "TDC" position? I think I'm going to head to Books a Million and pick up the How to build a SBC tonight so I make sure I don't screw anything up. Thanks! :cheers:
If you have a regular timing chain set (that is the kind that doesn't have the multiple keyways in the crank gear) you'll see, if you look closely, that both the cam gear and the crank gear have a little "dot" or indentation on them.
You need to turn the crank gear until that "dot" is at the 12 o'clock position. Then put the cam gear's dot at the 6 o'clock position. If all is well, that will be TDC for #6. It's easiest to use 12 and 6 because the dots will be close together and you'll be able to tell if you are one or more teeth off.
When the cam gear's dot is at the 12 o'clock position and the cranks gear's dot is at the same 12 o'clock position, that's TDC for #1.
Of course if there is any tolerance error in the parts you're using, the cam can be off a few degrees. That's why degreeing in the cam is recommended.
Oh yeah, I forgot all about degreeing the cam! Last week I found a parts store that has one in stock... Thanks for the reminder Jake. I'm going to pick it up tomorrow! :cheers: :cheers:
[edit]----> I checked my gears, and even though there are 3 keyways (0, -2 deg, +2 deg), there was a dot on the cam gear and one on the crank gear. Thanks Jake!
Oh yeah, I forgot all about degreeing the cam! Last week I found a parts store that has one in stock... Thanks for the reminder Jake. I'm going to pick it up tomorrow! :cheers: :cheers:
Oh yeah, I forgot all about degreeing the cam! Last week I found a parts store that has one in stock... Thanks for the reminder Jake. I'm going to pick it up tomorrow! :cheers: :cheers:
Degreeing in a cam by a "first-timer" is really difficult.
Do you have anyone nearby that can walk you through it?
You'll need a dial indicator with either a magnetic base or a dial indicator mount that fits directly into the lifter bore. You will also need a pointer, but you can make one out of a piece of coat hangar and use a bolt.
You will also need a positive stop indicator so that you can absolutely determine when the #1 piston is at TDC.
Like I said, for a first timer, it's rough. but once someone shows you how, it's a piece of cake. There are videos that show the whole procedure you can buy. I suspect Crane, CompCams and others sell them.
Or you can do what most first timers do (me) just line up the dots and run it. :)
Degreeing is certainly worthwhile, though.
Yup. Just line up the dots and run it and you'll be fine. Most "name-brand" cams are good to go. But I agree that degreeing (checking) is a very worthwhile step if you are (1.) Building a full-boogie race engine or (2.) Very distrusting of your cam grinder or (3.) Obsessive/compulsive. :lol:
Yep. Unless you can get someone in the "know" to give you a hand, it will probably be too much for you to handle first time around.
In the 35 years or so that I've been screwing on these engines, I've only had two occasions where the dot on the new Cloyes crank gear was stamped in the wrong spot - one tooth off. These were both Big Block setups though.
Quality control on camshafts nowadays from the big companies is top notch so you shouldn't have a problem with just aligning the dots and buttoning her up.