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Flareside, I'm jealous! That's going to be a one serious motor. Looks like you need a cam in 650'' range to take advantage those Dart heads. When is this motor going to run? :)
Excellent choice, they look like the best heads around until AFR can finally supply theirs. I thinks thats what the Tech Editor from Chevy High performance is using for huge block chevy as well. :)
Thanks guys. My goal is to start out with around 500 hp at the rear wheels, and then work up from there :jester My hope is that these heads will support over 600 rwhp and still maintain great street manners. For starters, I'm currently leaning toward a solid flat tappet in the 250* at .050" and .600" or so lift. The solid roller that these heads really deserve will have to wait until the budget has time to recover :( I just sent my rear to Tom's for a full workover, so a major portion of my available cash will wind up in his pocket :lol:
What really attracted me to these heads was their flow at .3" and .4". They flow between 50 and 60 cfm more than Dart's comparable 325cc "as cast" head at those lifts. My biggest problem now will be keeping the flow up through the intake and exhaust systems so that these awesome heads and big pistons can breath.
Very sweet looking heads!! Your exhaust ports flow better than my intakes! Those heads will make some serious hp. 600rwhp should be a breeze with the right cam. :cool: :cheers:
Gkull, I already have an Edelbrock Victor Jr. that's been modified for EFI. I may have to opens the manifold ports up a little to match the ports in the heads. We'll see.
The exhaust ports are the same size as any other Dart Pro-1 BBC head, so regular headers will fit. The ports are 2" x 1.75". I'd love to run the 2 1/8 Hookers, but I'm not sure I can deal with the crappy ground clearance. I'm definitely sticking with undercar exhaust.
Flareside,have you chosen your cam yet? If you haven't, a good custom grinder will be able to plug in all your flow numbers and make some good recommendations. If they know exactly how you are going to use the motor, and what your expectations are, you should be able to get the max out of it with the streetability you're looking for.
Cams for a street 540 are quite a mess. Check out these recommendations I got from a few companies:
Comp Cams:
For a solid flat tappet, they recommend part number 11-678-5. 244I 252E at .050", .590" lift, 110 LSA A second tech I spoke to there recommended the same cam, but ground on a 114 LSA.
For a solid roller, they recommend part number number 11-772-8 (Extreme Energy 286) 248I, 254E, .653, .660 lift, 110 LSA
Ultradyne:
They say I should not run a solid roller on the street unless I want to rebuild the lifters every 2000 miles. They recommend a solid flat tapped like this:
271I and 279E at .050", .630 lift on both, 112 LSA. WAY bigger than what Comp recommended.
Crower: Haven't returned my call :(
Crane: The tech I got doesn't recommend solid flat tappets to anyone anymore. He said they have a tendency to go flat? They recommend a hydraulic flat, hydraulic roller, or solid roller:
If anything, the solid roller should be more radical than the hydraulic, not 8* less duration. These guys are clueless...
These recommendations are all sooo different that it's rediculous. I've lost all faith in the cam company tech lines :(
I'll make my cam decision based on the experience of the other street 540 owners here on the forum. At the moment, I'm thinking about the XS290 (252I/260E,110LSA, .6" lift) from Comp's new Extreme Energy solid flat tappet line.
If it makes you feel any better, Comp Cams was told my entire setup and then said, "Tuned Port Injection...you running fuel injection or a carb".
Needless to say, I was hoping that they would have had some cam profiles specifically made to boost the torque the TPI manifold is capable of. :confused:
The big company cam "hot lines" make me crazy. I got the same responses as everybody else does...they are ALL OVER THE MAP. You may want to try calling Terry at Cam Motion. (Baton Rouge La.) He thinks outside the box, and comes up with some pretty good stuff. The solid roller idea is a good one, and from what I've learned, as long as you have really good stuff, and it's assembled well, you should be ok on the wear end.