I'm looking to make my '93 LT1 into a 396ci, but I'm having budget problems. Since I'm using a 150HP nitro shot I'm worried about the piston rings. Would it be wise to get a new set of rings and pistons and have all of the block work done now and have a 355ci with a stock crank and rods, or should I just wait until I can afford the whole thing?

It's not the cost of the rods and crank that are going to kill me, it's the cost of everything else for a bigger CI. Crank, rods, injectors, cam, chip, etc., that's about a $2500 difference.

Oh yeah, the reason I'm thinking this is for a winter project, as long as my engine holds up and doesn't turn it into a fall project.


[Modified by mn_vette, 12:49 PM 8/19/2002]

 

I don't know what tranny you have. So, if you have the 4l60e and Dana 36 rear remember to add many more dollars into your budget to upgrade those. Whatever you do just figure out how much you think it will cost you and then double that to come up with close to what it will cost. Remeber to include a good road race oil pan, aluminum radiator, oil cooler, tranny cooler (if auto equiped) and many other things I can't remember now. Then think about just selling it and buying a C5.

 

I've got the 4L60 (no e) and it seems to be doing just fine for now. But I do realize that it will be the next thing to go. Then the rear end, then something else, that's the way it always goes. But I deal with those when I get to them.

I hear what you are saying about that C5. My creature comforts are starting to go and those will add up to more than my engine mods if I'm not careful. But the theory is if I get my LT1 the way I want it then I should be able to find a way to drop it into a newer C5.

 

I have to agree about doubling what you think it will cost. I have been able to build strong engines for under 4 grand, but rarely. Only if I reuse a lot of the stock parts and upgrade where I can. So that's the advice I'm going to give you.

Why not try a 383 build up for now. As long as you're not 0.060" overbored yet, you've always got another rebuild to go before the block's done. Then, you can build it fairly cheaply, assuming you'll be reusing your heads and rods, but at least get them shot peened and polished, and reassemble your engine using ARP exclusively.

You don't have to go big bucks and get all the trick stuff, unless you have the money to. Later on, you can add onto your engine as finances allow, or eventually build that big-dollar 396. But especially with nitrous, the 383 won't disappoint you.

If you find a 406 block, why not grab another 10 cubic inches and build a 406? Probably will save you money over a 396.

 

Just picked up the latest edition of GM Hi-Tech Performance. They have a large article advertising a company called "Nu-Tek Motorsports" http://www.nu-tekmotorsports.com They supposedly have pretty good deals on engines, and will custom build anything you desire (355, 383, 396) and have it shipped to your door. Might give em a ring- I am. 866-77-NUTEK :cheers:

 

I'm w/this guy. When you add n2o you will break parts. Having an engine rebuilt using your parts can be the way to go if you have the right parts. DO YOU? Be realistic about power goals and plan on spending almost as much on upgrades for the rest of the car to make it hold together w/extra power. Just my .02

 

$2500 different? If you are doing a 396ci LT1. The ends result will cost more tham double than you calculated. At least that were my previous experience. My first mods was Top End package, calculated cost about $3500. At the end I was spent more like $6500. I just got blown 383ci done, I calculated cost about 12k. End up almost 15K. you figure. If you don't do it right and have a good setup trying to cut cost. Then the 396ci motor will not make the power you want it to make.

Bruce
93LT1 Conv w/ZF6
Blown D1-SC/N2O
ARE built 383ci/Stage II head
http://hometown.aol.com/brucevette/m...age/index.html

 

i've budgeted 15K for a 400 buildup including tranny, rear end and shafts. i'm wondering if i underestimated???????????

i'm not even going too exotic either, but there's this jerkoff runnin around in a cobra that thinks he's the bomb.................. :reddevil

people like that need to be spanked and put in the corner with a duncecap

 

Okay, here's the deal. You can recycle some of those parts. A cast iron crankshaft will typically live up to 600 hp, according to some sources. A set of cast connecting rods, once properly shot-peened and polished, will also handle quite a bit of power. I won't stick my neck out and say 600, but will handle what a street 383 can be built for. (I have a neighbor running stock and prepped rods in a 745 hp, 10 second drag engine for years with no problem...big block by the way).
You don't even need to spend a ton on the pistons. Sure, forged is great, but if it's just a street engine, a hypereutectic piston will take up to about a 125 hp shot of juice safely.
Vortec iron heads are excellent heads for a budget. Out of the box, they make excellent power potential. Or you can reuse your stock heads if you spend a little money on some nice port work.
And roller cams are nice, but you can make respectible power with a flat tappet cam. If you don't mind the adjusting, a solid cam makes great torque and power. Even the right hydraulic cam will make your engine run great.

I've got a 355 engine built on a budget, running around in a 1986 tuned port IROC, haunting C4 and C5 Corvettes around Denver. You CAN build a decently fast street engine on a budget. That engine cost no more than 3 grand to build, and it is running seriously strong.

 

My buddy has a Cobra and he has ridden in my car and says mine is much faster. His car is in L.A. so we can't race em side by side. And I'm not planning a trip there anytime soon. So, I guess if you build it to my specs you should beat that Cobra. Of coarse you will have spent way too much money and wished you had bought a nice C5. Maybe you should just buy mine, I'll sell if for about $50,000. Hahahahahahahahaahahaha, aaaaarrrrrrggghhhh.

 

MoMo,

I've got my top end built up about as far as it can go, and I want to run a 200+HP shot on top. I just need to do the bottom end for my rebuild,

My costs:
Block work
Crank
Rods
Pistons
Rings
Gasket Set
Bearings
ARP Bolts
Injectors
Computer chip

Everything else should be able to hold off, I'll probably want to do a new camshaft and before I do the nitrous I'll need to go to a dual pump setup. I'm going to check with my speed shop today and see what they can give me for a price on all of it. I do also understand that this is going to destroy my transmittion when I do this, but I can keep it under control except for the occasional azz kicking of a ricer.




[Modified by mn_vette, 4:59 PM 8/26/2002]

 

You should be able to pick up a fairly stout rotating assembly from Speedomotive for somewhere between a grand and two grand, depending on how trick you go. I'd recommend forged rods and pistons if you've got 200 hp worth of nitrous. Stock iron or cast steel 400 (or 383) crank will hold up to this power. You don't need to upgrade to a forge crank unless you're planning on either greater than 600 hp continuous use, or high rpm use, like say 6500 rpm or more. Try a solid flat tappet cam for now. You'll make nearly the power of a roller but for $800 clams less.

I predict that if your stock block can be used, you'll be able to build a 383 stroker for under 3 grand, especially if you're using an already built top end.
You MIGHT even get it done for 2 grand. If you find a reasonable machine shop and build it up yourself. But if you're not experienced, don't try it. Clearances are critical on a 383. Spend the 3 grand instead and have the short block built for you.

 

Then again...
If you were willing to go no more than 125 hp of nitrous, then all you're going to need to buy is an iron or steel crankshaft ($200 to $250) and a set of pistons for the next bore size up. You can really build that 383 cheap then. But if you go the budget route, please have your stock 5.7 inch rods shot peened, polished, and use ARP bolts on them.
Plus, hydraulic flat tappet cam is fine on a budget. You'll still be very happy with your budget torque monster.

 

The whole plan is to build it once and not have to do it again. So it'll have to be able to hold up to whatever power I decide to try and obtain in the future.....I was thinking 2,000 hp :jester I might fall a little short of that, but I know I can do the bolt-ons so I'd be able to do all the rest of the work once the bottom end is built up.