I was thinking about it,how would you guys build the ultimate 327.I was thinking a nice healthy solid roller cam, micro pollished crank.(If money was no option,custom billet crank micro pollished knife edged throws.)Bullet proof bottom end.JE forged pistons.Maybe a nice fuel injection system.Some ported/pollished milled down vortec heads.Three angle valve job,bigger valves.
What about you guys?If any of my combo doesn't match up please explain why,I'm still learning about motor and performance combos.I wish I took auto tech classes in highschool.
Thanks guys. :cool:

 

I'd say the 327 is my favorite kind of combo (bore x stroke).. I had one on my '68 Camaro and it was tons of fun.. it just reved so easily....
I'd go with AFR 190... a solid roller somewhere between 230 - 250º @.050 considering it's going to be a street engine and a Moon intake w/ 4 Webers . All hi-tech parts inside... and there you have a beauty...

 

Thanks dude.I was expecting people to say just build a 383 and have tq and all.My question is just me wondering about how I would build a 327.Keep the same bore/stroke.If any one remebers my LS1 302 thread and 283 thread I like the idea of building non conventional powerplants.
Still just kicking around the idea.
I would love to be able to run high compression also.

 

black LS1, 327's are not unconventional engines - just a slightly smaller small block than the common 350. Problem is that they all look the same from the outside.

Now Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Buick, and Cadillac - those would be unconventional (but still very worthwhile IMO).

327's love revs. For sure make it at least 11:1 compression, minimum solid flat tappet or solid roller cam like a Comp XR280R. Go bigger on the heads - remember you want revs, get AFR 195's or maybe the 210's.

The sound of a small block 327 at 8,000 to 9,000 rpm is pure magic - but the days of the street screamer are over, everybody has discovered how gobs of torque make for fast good street mannered cars with reliability.

Thomas

 

I'd base it on a 350 4 bolt block with large journals. Might as well get the extra strength for a street toy.

Use a lightweight everything in the bottom end. Crank, yes, but mainly rods and pistons. I think the aluminum afteramrket heads in the 200 cc range are good. The engine will have a good rod ratio already. I would resist the urge too put longer rods in it, even though it would help piston weight ( 327 are much heavier than 350's).

Need to spend $$ to get good oiling system on it. Primarily to control windage and drainback because of high RPM. Use as deep a pan as possible.

Definitely a solid cam. Either flat or roller, but of course roller is preferred. I'd be in the 250* range too with as much lift as the heads and piston/valve clearance could stand.

Top with a tall single plane with at least a 750 or maybe even a 850 Holley.

The beauty of the 327 is its high rpm capability. You need to gear it accordingly to be in the 7000+ range at the line.

I've had them too. Great little engine. JUst have to drive them a little different......HARD!!!!!

Kind of like a 427 and a 454...the 454 usually out dyno's the 454, but I never had trouble hanging with any of them during a race with the 427. In fact I never remember being beat by one. Just have to drive a little different.

JIM

 

Thanks guys anyone else??

 

I still have my 327 in my 68 Camaro...............
Not a built monster, as at the time it was my EDD.
Stock steel 2.02 Fuelie heads & valvetrain, P&P,polished crank, Forged Alum TRW pistons, Torker II intake, Holley 750, Sig Erson II Hi flow Hyd cam (.472 / 236) Rhoads lifters, 10.5 comp., MSD,1 5/8 headers, custom Borla Silver bullet headers muffs, worked TH350 & 4.10 12 bolt posi.
I built it 15 years ago, run it hard, and it likes 6,800 rpms.
Dated technology, but I have lots of fun with it.
It ain't broke yet, but when it does.........400 SB in the corner of the garage :D

 

Good thread! It really is sad that every article in the mags nowadays describe the build-ups based on 350-383-400-etc engines and forget totally the good ole 327´s.

Tapio

 

Check this out:

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/ed...0viewtype=text

Nice article of 327 with roller cam. 408 hp, nice...

 

Two ways I'd build a 327.

One is already in my friend's 68 Camaro. It's got a 144 cfm little roots blower on it with a single 650 carb on top. Baby, it'll set you back in your seat. Best thing is, it all fits under his cowl induction hood! I had to look and make sure he didn't stick a big block in there!

The other would be with an Offenhauser (or Edelbrock) tri-carb manifold.
The offy is a single plane, which would rev just like the 327 likes to rev. Then build it with good long rods for a 302-style rod/stroke ratio, endow it with high compression and aluminum heads, and have port injected nitrous oxide installed. That way, you get the tripower look and still have big block power WITH the 327 rev-happy nature...for those "special" moments.

 

Everything sounds good except the Vortec heads. Building the engine depends on how many RPM's you plan on turning and what type of fuel you plan to buy and how you plan to use it all. For the ultimate heads I would go with some brand like Brodix, Dart. The Vortec are street heads with good potential but aren't engineered for all-out performance.

I am putting together a new aluminum block 356-t6 Bowtie Block splayed bolt caps with vintage old 23 degree phase 6 aluminum heads (55cc) and had the intake ports widened to the max then the pushrod holes drilled offset on the intakes, and running offset rockers and lifters on the intakes then I am staggering the ratios (1.7 and 1.65- stay away from the aluminum ones and get the top of the line Crower or Competition Cam units, or Jesel) because of the different lengths of intake manifold runners (Bowtie unit-single plane) running basically about a Felpro 1206 gasket, I would have prefered to use all Bowtie parts but unfortunately I recognize the superiority of the aftermarket so I have a set of 6 inch carrillo rods which holds the piston at TDC a hair longer for longer fuel burn, I am running a true flat top piston custom made by Ross (former aerospace guys) with valve reliefs the compression being built in the heads with the small combustion chambers. I have to be real concerned with startup because the crank bearing clearances are set tight in consideration of block expansion (aluminum), therefore I bought a raw forged 4340 GM Bowtie crank and cut it to the medium journal configuration (68-69 327- 2.45/2.10) knife edging, cross drilled, etc.. Counterweights are circular and my hope is with the rigidity of the 4340 and the balance will help minimize startup scuffing and hopefully minimize crank flex. I will be on the street and track. I went conservative on the cam with the old 30/30 grind because I would like the engine to pull out of the lower RPMs. I could try to race in the upper RPM's but prefer to dig out of a turn with good usable torque and my Richmond 6 speed will take care of the car's ability at the upper end. I can run the engine on pump gas because of the aluminum heads and the flat top pistons promoting good flame travel (it doesn't have to climb over a dome), because of the cam I choose to run the 2.02/1.60 valves but use the pro-flow stemmed down units because of the 23 degree heads, titanium retainers, a good heavy dual spring good to 7800-8000rpms. Pro Flow valves aren't effective in the 15/18 degree heads. I will push the advance to 40 with true racing gas 114 octane locally. I have the MSD magnetic pickup distributor and 6L Box, and adjustable timing box to change my advance/retardation depending what I am doing. Header's are a must. In my 64 Vette Roadster the Hedman units 1-7/8 and 3-1/2 collectors are the maximum size units available to fit the angle plug heads. The side mount hooker's w/4 inch collectors are not designed to clear the angle plug configuration but I haven't attempted to bolt them up. The Demon carb with changable venturi's in Road Race configuration is going on top.
P.S. I don't agree with lightweight bottom internals (crank/rods) unless you are strictly drag racing. There is nothing that will launch a car out of a turn like a 40lb flywheel. The key is balancing. Take the weight off of the top at the piston. The longer rod lengths in a 327 6" are great. You don't have to compromise the ring stack. Run a tool steel piston pin but the medium weight units not the light ones and because of the upgrade to tool steel you get the strength. I personally think stroker motors have there place but I like road racing. The 383/406 etc.. are wonderful if you want to dig off of the stoplights. If I was going this route I would buy the Rocket Block in a tall deck design and stuff the largest stoke with the longest rod that would fit.
The question with horsepower and gears is how much tire do you have to hookup. I have won many a race against other cars with mountain rearends 4.88 etc.. and they are still trying to hookup and I am gone. Usually they might be able to pull me later on with the 4.88 gears, but they usually think they have lost. I also am still in the same gear and they have already had to shift.


Isn't this fun, I have almost as much fun engineering the car as I have driving it.
:cheers:


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I have an unconventional "350". Take a 400 block and a 327 crank, and you have every advantage a 327 has (rev happy short stroke), along with better breathing (bigger, unshrouded valves) and extra long rods (6.3"). Compression can be 11:1 on pump gas (higher if you want to push things or use a cam with more overlap). I have base Victor Jr. heads, Victor Jr. Intake, and a Holley 770 CFM carb.

Build this up right and you could have 500+ hp at 6,500 RPM with a cam like the 282HR. I've actually gone more conservative on the cam, and I'll go to a local dyno day sometime soon and see what this really delivers...

 

How about the heads? I was wondering what would be optimal intake runner size for max 6500-7500 RPM 327. Would TFS 195 cc be overkill, or Edelbrock 170 cc too small for this engine? I would keep the intake runners as small as possible for good mixture velocity and torque in the low and mid range.

 

I have this "long rod 354" that bcwaller has as well for when my 331 in the 4000 lb truck blows up, which will probably be 15 years from now like the dude above.

I got this idea reading a forum just like this one.

You take the big bore of the 400 and short stroke of the 327 and combine it with long rods to make good rod ratio and it should really kick butt and take names on the street.

The only difference I have is that my 331 is fuel injected. Its a b i tch to tune but once you get it right, it really is very cool. I have the edelbrock proflo system on the 331 and I am about to spray it this year with the NOSzle nos system and try to beat the hell out of it so I can build my long rod 350 and try out this F.A.S.T. system I've been reading so much about.

It probably won't break as I've built the crap out of it. 4 bolt mains, xr cc hr cam, forged pistons, blah, blah, blah. I love driving this thing on the street. 3.25" strokes really kick in throttle response and even low end torque to some degree. I have never experienced nos, but from what I read its a fine art.

OK, Going to seguine to race the zr1 this weekend, Now that is scary. I may be driving the 331 to work on Monday =).

If anyone wants the long rod 350 article I will e mail it. 400 block. 6.125 rods. 3.25" stroke.

Rick :chevy :flag :cool:

 

Now THAT would be cool. A long rod 354 built out of a 400 with 327 crank, and the 4-valve heads and tuned induction of a ZR-1 motor.
Basically, take the best part of the ZR-1 and bolt it onto the top of a motor with a talent for extremely quick revving.

uh huh...uh huh... Cool...heh...heh

(Umm, SHUT UP Butthead!)

Sorry...got carried away there. :crazy: