What additional machine work is required for a 383 Stroker?
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Instructor
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From: Tulsa OK
What additional machine work is required for a 383 Stroker?
I pulled the 400 SBC from my 1965 to have it rebuilt. I noticed that the pistons were .040 not .030 as the previous owner had represented. I have always heard that .030 is the max you want to go on a 400 block, so I was debating about getting another 400 block or taking the bottom end off of my 400 and building a 383 stroker.
Can I take the crank and rods from the 400 and use them for the 383? What additional machine work is required to a 350 block in making a 383 stroker?
Can I take the crank and rods from the 400 and use them for the 383? What additional machine work is required to a 350 block in making a 383 stroker?
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Allen TX
Re: What additional machine work is required for a 383 Stroker? (toy350)
One thing, your crank journals (for the 400 crank) would have to be cut down to fit the smaller journal size of a "350" block. I guess the amount that you can down a crank is dependent on the crank (one that is nitride hardened probably can't be cut down since you would be removing the bulk of hardened material, etc.)
Here's a link with journal sizes, etc.
http://www.mortec.com/journal.htm
To make that 383 you may also need a bit of clearancing for the bigger crank.
see ya,
John
Here's a link with journal sizes, etc.
http://www.mortec.com/journal.htm
To make that 383 you may also need a bit of clearancing for the bigger crank.
see ya,
John
Pro
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Calgary
Re: What additional machine work is required for a 383 Stroker? (toy350)
I would sonic check your 400 block. You may be able to take it .060 if you are really lucky. I think the absolute minimum for cylinder wall thickness is .150" (even though I've heard some factory Ford blocks have barely over .100".). You could always hard block it to help support the bores as well.
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Re: What additional machine work is required for a 383 Stroker? (toy350)
a 383 is just the 400's crank (3.75) and a 4.030" bore. So all you need is the block to be bored out .030", and youll need to have the crank machined so itll fit the 350's 2.45in mains and you can use the same rods.
Unfortunately, this gives a short rod length/stroke ratio. So if you can afford a custom piston from JE, Ross, or SpeedPro that move the wrist pin up that will allow you to use a 5.7" rod or even a 6".
Unfortunately, this gives a short rod length/stroke ratio. So if you can afford a custom piston from JE, Ross, or SpeedPro that move the wrist pin up that will allow you to use a 5.7" rod or even a 6".
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
Re: What additional machine work is required for a 383 Stroker? (toy350)
Toy:
Great lookin '65! 400 crank mains must be turned 0.2" to fit 350 block. Sound advice on the sonic test ... maybe you can safely go 0.060" over. You indicate motor was misrepresented ... are ya sure it's a 400 block & crank? Does it have the stock 400 short 5.565" length rods? 5.7" or longer rods are definately the way to go. Maybe your 400 already has them? If ya go 5.7 or more with 400 crank ... regardless if 350 or 400 block ... there'll be clearancing issues. Likely points are: bottoms of cylinders where rods may touch, oil pan rails where bottoms of rod bolts may touch, and (depending on which longer rod/cam is used) where tops of rod bolts may touch cam lobes. BTW, if no nitrous nor 'charger ... you can safely run hypereutectic pistons ... they require 2-to-4 thousandth's Less clearance than forged ... might be some help when deciding overbore limit.
Great lookin '65! 400 crank mains must be turned 0.2" to fit 350 block. Sound advice on the sonic test ... maybe you can safely go 0.060" over. You indicate motor was misrepresented ... are ya sure it's a 400 block & crank? Does it have the stock 400 short 5.565" length rods? 5.7" or longer rods are definately the way to go. Maybe your 400 already has them? If ya go 5.7 or more with 400 crank ... regardless if 350 or 400 block ... there'll be clearancing issues. Likely points are: bottoms of cylinders where rods may touch, oil pan rails where bottoms of rod bolts may touch, and (depending on which longer rod/cam is used) where tops of rod bolts may touch cam lobes. BTW, if no nitrous nor 'charger ... you can safely run hypereutectic pistons ... they require 2-to-4 thousandth's Less clearance than forged ... might be some help when deciding overbore limit.
