:U is what I feel like doing right now after throwing down 2k.
I never thought I would get so into this. I thought my first engine build was going to be the final build. Then one thing led to another "constant overheating". SO I went through everything I could and nothing helped. So I went onto mechanical sides, started with oil, found metal in it. first thought, cam everything looked new. then came the pan off, ohhh big chunks of metal, that expalins the little shavings. but where did they come from. then came pulling the pistons out. ohh thats where they came from. the ring lands broke, and the rings snapped. So first I thought maybe I am just grinding the cam out, so planned for a new one, then came the pistons, so I thought I just need a new pistons, then realized wait, that crank isn't forged like it says on the invoice nore are those rods. So I thought okay new rotating assem. So then it dawned on me, hell if nothing else was right about the engine what about the engine it's self. Well I decided to do it right and not risk it. I think the walls are just too thin for what I want.

So yeah enough venting. I plan on building both engines back up and documenting both as I go, so in the end, I should have 2 twin turbo engines sitting on stands. My original one will be of course more mellow. it's either that or if I can manage to sell the parts before then. I hope to make at least a grand off the old engine. I need it.

How much do you guys think a 4 bolt block, listed below would be worth, if it were inspected and cleaned by a machinest to gurantee it was in good order.
and how much do you think a set of S/R heads would be worth?

what about a Holley Pro Series 950cfm 4150 HP carb?

Anyone know?

 

I'm sorry to hear of your bad luck. I assume you won't be using that machine shop again.

So which block did you order?

 

I ordered the Race block "billet 4 bolt splayed mains" 4.125 more with 350 mains. part number wld 084120. I guess it's gonna be worth it cause this block still offers more than any of GM's performance blocks. and is still cheaper.

Oh I never had the first engine built. I was 18 and it came with the car when I got it. The seller had just moved from Hawaii down to Oregon. He said it was dynoed at 420hp. I thought it was great, Considering that I was moving up from a crappy v6 mustang, this was quite a treat and I didn't know how 420 hp was to feel. Though I did take on a viper on the freeway on the way back to washington and beat it down. Anyways he gave me all the reciepts, and the motor came from Performance Products in Arizona. I rebuilt it about a year after I got it, and replaced the rings and bearings, cleaned it all up thats about all. I was and still am learning as I go along. I never thought to look into the parts to make sure it was forged or not. The crank had a nice cut to it, the Rods were all smooth and had the ridgelines machined off. "assuming at that point that they were not forged." But I am not the original owner, so nothing I can do. I kinda went around starting the project backwards. and amazingly the old engine seemed to hold up to the pressure of the boost. Except for the cracked ring lands, but I think that would be solved by some real forged pistons, If I decide to build it up again.

 

Quote: I should have 2 twin turbo engines sitting on stands.
That is very :cool:

 

Drop a note to Vettemanic here on the Foum. He's looking for a Hp series carb.

If you don't get him, try ZWEDE....he can get in touch with him.


JIM

 

I just got the same block from Dart :D !!! :cheers:

 

Hey Guess what after the shop called me and said I would need to pay an additional 200 bucks to have it shipped I told them to get lost and I want my money back. The reason they wanted that was I guess World products was on back order, Anyways when I said I wanted my money back they argued and argued, kinda made me mad, So I decided to look into the dart, so in the end I now have a DART Little M block comming Part # 31131211. It has all the same features, 4 bolts steel caps on all 5 mains, 4.125 bore 350 mains, indexed lifters, scalloped water outlets, Beefed walls, .275 wall thickness at 4.180 or something like that. Anyways you guys probabily already new that. So I'm going to bed!

 

:thumbs: At least you still have a great block on the way :D .

 

I think you're better off personally...

 

The only thing I am not certain about on the new motor is are the lifter bores indexed? I know the world products ones are, But are the Dart ones? I think its an important feature. Also whom has a dart block witha 4.125 or greater bore, Did you measure the wall thickness? They say it's .275 at 4.125 other places say that wall thickness at an even greater bore, " I can't remember what size though" Anyways I just don't want the shop to hone it out anymore then they have to cause I want the largest wall thickness I can get.

 

The lifter bores are indexed, but not necessarily honed to fit a particular lifter bore size. All the machined dimensions are supposed to be w/in .001"(except cylinder wall), but I had to hone mine a touch on a couple of the bores. The Dart blocks are intended to be used in racing, while the Motown blocks are more "street oriented". With that in mind, WP can finish hone their lifter bores to .842" because that's the standard SBC lifter diameter and what the vast majority of street small blocks use. However, most racers will opt for a .875" Ford diameter lifter, or even the .904" Chrysler lifter for the big boys.

Out of the box, the lifter bores will be real close, but some might need to be honed a couple thousandths. My Dart block ahs a 4.125" bore, with a guaranteed minimum cylinder wall thickness of .300" at a 4.185" bore. Now that Fel-Pro is offering a 4.200" SBC head gasket, there is a ton of room to grow, or if you want a 454/468+CI SBC bore and stroke it out. Considering that some guys run cylinder wall thicknesses as thin as .100", you've got nothing to worry about with a Dart block.


[Modified by Monty, 8:51 AM 1/18/2003]