Help with 73 BBC engine problem, looking for idea's ?
73 454 Chevy, basically stock, 13,000 miles since rebuild around 1995 (based on previous owners input)
Problem: Engine "miss" or "backfire into intake" under moderate load, or over about 2,300 rpm's. Idile is good, cruise is good till 2,300 rpm's (60 mph). Then, the harder you push the throttle, the louder the "rattling" type sound gets. Also, power is down noticeably, feels like it's running on 7 cylinders.
Checked timing, good, 12deg. initial, 38 deg. total mech advance with vacum line disconnected (Mallory Unilite distributer, vacum advance model) replaced plug wires, coil wire, dist. cap first, no improvement. Removed Valve covers, all springs and rocker arms appear fine (no broken springs), oil pressure is as normal as it was before.
I'll be hunting down a compression tester this week to see if that shows anything (Head gasket???)
These symptoms happened rather quickley, car not driven very often, seemed like from one outing it was fine, then next one was rattling around 3,000 rpm,s and getting worse quickley.
Any idea's would be appreciated! :confused:






Any water/oil disappering?
Vacumn reading?
With a used engine, you just don't know what the condition is even though the owner may have told you ;)
Sounds like possible timing problem.....timing chain maybe........
which will give you that popping back through the intake under load because
you're getting a lot more air into the cylinder then and it's not all getting out through the exhaust valve. A compression test will not confirm this either as
the static cranking pressure should still be good.
Just a thought.
Good luck,
Dan
The engine ran great after rebuilding for about three months. Then it suddenly developed a miss. I believe it was in the #6 cylinder. After scratching my head for a week (I checked everything imaginable) I accidentally noticed a vacuum cap missing where the direct intake manifold vacuum line attached to the vacuum canister on the A/C housing. It was an obvious vacuum leak. The vacuum fitting on the intake manifold was threaded into the #6 runner. Therefore it was causing a "lean" condition for the #6 cylinder causing it to miss. Replacing the vacuum cap solved the problem.
It's probally not what's causing your problem but it's a quick easy check. Hopefully it's something this simple.
Good Luck
RACE ON!!!
1984 Crossfire
Member NHRA
highest was 88 p.s.i. and lowest was 79p.s.i. rest were 83 to 85.
Lowest was number 8 cylinder.
I have not found access to a leakdown tester as of yet.
The "popping" sound seems to be isolated to the #8 cyl. maybe #6.
Spark plug in #8 was slightly fouled, but not horrible, rest look great.
I'll try the watching the valve action with the motor running method to see if the exhaust valve on that cylinder is openning fully.
Can one cam lobe wear much quicker than the rest? :confused:
Almost sounds like an intermittent exhaust leak at high load or high rpm's at #8, can't really see underneath exhaust manifold, may go ahead and replace the exhaust manifold gasket on that side just in case it's leaking.
Thanks,
Keep us posted.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Pulled valve covers, cranked motor, and cyl. #8 exhaust valve just bareley opens :eek: so it's leaning out in that cylinder.
I assume the cam lobe is flat, or possibly a bad lifter? But looks like I get to install a new cam and lifter set now :hurray: At least I'll know what I have in there.
Compression readings? I'm going to try another compression tester as the first one was an old beat up piece drug out from an oldtimer's tool box, probably from the 50's!
And I didn't open the throttle plates either, good idea. I'll also charge up the battery as I've been doing lots of cranking on it.
Does it matter if the motor is cold or warm when doing a static compresion test???
Thanks for all the idea's,
Tom
If you want to continue the diagnosis, pull the intake and remove that
one lifter and look at the bottom. If it's concave and/or galled, which I
suspect it is, then the cam is bad too. You can also watch the lifter
travel up and down in the lifter bore compared to the other to see if it's
moving the same amount. This will eliminate the possibility that it's just
the lifter that has collapsed.
Good luck.
Dan
See: http://www.motoexotica.com/
My correct compression is 150 -155 p.s.i. in all cylinders, I guess gauges can go bad over time. Makes me wonder about my old torque wrench!
Now I plan to remove the intake and see whats up.
Just hypothetically speaking, if a lifter were collapsed, could you just replace one lifter? Or, must you replace cam and lifters as a set? I know thats better, but I was thinking of getting myshelf thru the summer with one lifter then doing cam and lifters over the winter months.
Of course if it's concave and galled up, I'll do it all right now.
Note: I have adjusted this exact lifter twice since last October due to valve noise, I tightened it down each time to 1/2 turn past zero lash so the rocker arm nut is now noticeably lower than the other nuts on there respective studs.
I'm thinking this lifter may have :U it's guts out.
indication of this yet.
Dan






Hyd lifter = set 1 or 2 times . If you have already done this and the threads showing are noticable more than the others......Exhaust or intake?
You can replace a lifter, they have been known to go bad, but......
It is the exhaust on cyl. #8, last one in the back of the block.
Cam lobe is galled up and worn down somewhat, rest of lifters and cam lobes look good to the naked eye.
"Oiling problem in back?"
Researching cam specs now, will install new cam and lifters at a minimum.
Thanks for all your help :thumbs:
Now the fun begins, if assembly goes as smooth as dis-assembly, I've got her whipped! This being my first cam replacement job :eek:














