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Yesterday my friend Jonah and I successfully pulled the engine+powerglide from my '58 so i could clean them up and rebuild them. The engine had a bunch of aging problems that desparately need to be fixed.
But now I'm stumped by a single bolt. I'm trying to remove the three bolts that hold the torque converter onto the flywheel. I've gotten two of them off, only to find the third bolt head has sheared off.
Is there any good way to remove a bolt with no head that's under that kind of torque load? I'm hestitant to try standard bolt removers from Sears for fear it won't be able to handle the needed torque and leave hardened steel in the way of a second attempt.
If you don't feel good about using an easy out take the T-Converter to a shop
gind the bolt surface kind of flat and then use a center punch to give a small drill bit a place to start. Then move up to the final easy out drill bit size. I got lucky just a couple months ago and easy outed a Grade 8 bolt
Sinceyou removed 2 of the bolts and the head of the 3rd is ripped off, I am assuming that the torque converter is now on the bench.
I think you could safely remove the busted bolt with drilling, easy-out and heat. Drill the center of the bolt, taking care to monitor the drill depth and not go into the shell of the TC. You are going to need actetaline-oxygen torch to heat the boss that the bolt is busted into. You could test the resistance of the bolt with the easy-out without the heat. If it doesn't readily come out then use the heat. Keep the flame away from the bolt and concentrate on the circumerance of the boss. Test the easy-out at progresivly hotter temps. Till it starts to break loose. When it moves, maintain the heat level untill it can be removed easily. This should not adversly effect the TC since it is not a lock-up type.
Haveing said the above. Replacing the TC has merits also. You won't have to screw around with the removal operation and you would get the benefit of fresh TC.
Good luck.
:iagree: The heat and easyout should do the trick. I believe the bolt should've only been torqued to about 35lbs to start with. One suggestion to the heat trick is to apply a little WD40 after it cools down enough to not boil the WD away. The warmth will suck the WD into the hole and around the bolt. Used this trick lots of times! :cheers:
The other option that works is after you drill the hole in the bolt , drive a hex wrench into the hole with a hammer. This grips better than an EO.
If you can find PB blaster in the parts store use that first, its awsome at getting stuff loose! I use it all the time on my restoration projects.
[Modified by ALLTHROTTLE&NOBOTTLE, 6:45 AM 8/7/2003]