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Particularly if this engine has a new, flat tappet, cam, you want it to fire immediately. And you don't want the revs to fall below 1800 - 2000 rpms for the first 20 - 30 minutes. Buy, borrow, or rent an oil priming tool. Spin it up with a power drill until you have oil coming out of every push rod. Before you prime the oil passages, have the engine at TDC on the compression stroke. Actually 10* before TDC is better. After priming, drop the distributor in so that the rotor is pointing at the terminal in the cap holding the #1 plug wire. If you do all this correctly, the engine will fire after less than a full revolution of cranking. Good luck, and...
I just went thru the whole startup routine after replacing my cam. I added a bottle of cam break-in fluid to the oil. Spinning the oil pump is a must, I had trouble finding the priming tool locally. Summit has them for sale. I live nr. Mt Holly you could borrow mine if you wanted. I primed my carb with about a half shot glass of gasoline in the hole just forward of the air cleaner stud. Dropped in the distributor with the rotor at #1, no one was more surprised than I when it fired immediately.
You primed the carb through the fuel bowl vent. That is probably easier than what I have done, which is to unbolt the fuel fuel pump with the lines attached and working the pump arm against the block, to fill the bowls. I didn't mention filling the carb in my first post, because it was mentioned he probably would. To be clear, it is necessary, to have the engine fire quickly.
Also, I didn't mention that you cannot simply prime the oil system with a spare distributor shaft. You need the tool or I have used a junk distributor with the teeth ground off of the dist. drive gear. The distributor housing directs oil into the proper galleys. Without the housing or the facilime provided by the proper tool, you will have an internal oil leak and oil will not be directed "upstairs". Good luck, and...