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From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Highest quality aluminum rods ?
I am going to run aluminum rods in my 572 due to the extreme amounts of nitrous I want to run (500 hp+) I am aware of the shorter life span of these rods and the tolerance differances between them and steel.
What are the higher quality aluminum rod makers out there ?
BTW I have a brand new set of Crower billet +.250 BBC rods 1400.00 from Crower I want 1000.00 for them.
Ratt, saw your post over a Chevelles. Check out Jager's aluminum/ceramic connecting rods over at www.flowtechinduction.com, they're one of the few retailers for Jager. Mike
The BRE's are a definite step up from the normal Manleys etc. I have a buddy who just used some Giannino one's in his. Not sure who really makes them for him.
One precaution with them is the thermal issues. I was recently watching some dyno testing of a near 800 hp LS1 based motor and they were being very careful to allow 1/2 hour cooldowns between pulls to allow rods to cool. Probably overkill, but it is a real issue especially during dyno development. Might be an issue with repeated long street cruising and if oil temps get high on the street.
From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
I talked to Childs and Albert and they told me they have a new "Deep cycle" aluminum connecting rod that last up to 20,000 street miles with many trips to the drag strip. Supposedly 5 times more durable than a standard aluminum rod. I am aware of the thermal issues, but not as much as I need to be. I will do some more research on it and see what I come up with. It looks like an engine oil cooler will be neccasary.
I would imagine if I keep the rpms down on the street it will be ok, even if the oil is a little hot. At the track I will have to be more careful.
Although I would NEVER do this here is an example of what a guy I know got by with for two seasons in a boat that did not shock the motor . No soft hit either , all was on one button . Key was low RPM " 6200 " due to the jet pump impeller sized large and holding RPM down and water allowing for less drive-line shock .
468 motor
Big heads
Old Edelbrock race open plenum small Holley pattern
500 hp Fogger plumbed
300hp plate
Old original " 10k RPM brand " 50 hp hat on top the Holley
running off two 20 lb bottles
GM Nitrided Steel Cranks - cracked two till he dicovered the merits of + 2 degrees total ignition " lead "
GM Passenger Car Rods with ARP Bolts - stayed the course but of course was a silly thing to do . There's no comparison between those Crowers and the passenger car rods
Got a old dyno sheet here
439ci Chevy
631 HP with 850 Holley GM Heads
998 HP on the button at 9k RPM
GM 7/16 bolt dimple rods with the small end bushings ground offset for the poor mans long rod combo of the days .
Lived a good life that little guy .
Last edited by mountainmotor; Sep 6, 2004 at 10:47 AM.
From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Curtis, I never take anything anybody says here personally. If you told me I was an idiot for something I was trying to do I would look at your reasons and decide what I may be doing wrong. I value everyones opinion here, just some more than others.
What exactly is heat cyclic rate ?
I am running the aluminum rods due to the shock absorbtion they provide. I am only going to spin the motor to 7500 or so (4.375 stroke)
My nitrous system will flow 500 easy (one full race Fogger (500) and two double cross plates (300 each) two 15lbs bottles. The plan is to leave the line with as much power as the chassis and tires will handle, then bring in the second system (as traction dictates) on a timer. This plan will of course require some tuning, but that is the plan as of now.
I am going to flog the 454 I have now as I assemble and plan the 572.
Your alum rod choice is a better way to go than steel with any cubes larger tha 555.The advantages of alum are lighter weight ,which translates to less stress on the crank allowing for higher hp levels and staying safe.Everyone always says higher rpm but that is determined by the cam and valvetrain as how high your powerband goes.Alum rods are stronger than steel rods on compression stroke.You cannot pull the engine down with alum or you will stretch and separate the rods.Make sure your converter is set up to idle down when you lift off the gas.ON my 632 I had oliver billet steel and the supercharger cylinder pressure pounded the bearings so hard with the weight of those rods that it wouldnt live long . Now with grp alum rods the lighter weight is not crushing the bearings.
From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Thanks 632: When I talked to C and A I asked them about how many times you can tq these new rods and they claim as many times as a steel rod. I am also aware of the problems of letting the motor pull the cars rpm down when you go through the traps. I did not know how to get around it untill now. Any convertor maker you reccomend that knows what they are doing regarding this problem? I would rather bump the car into neutral, but the shifter I have will not allow that.
Thanks for the help guys, lots of good info and things to think about.
Hey if your worried about the heat cyclic of the aluminum rods you could look into coating them with a thermal barrier coating... that combined with a good oil cooler should keep the rods from getting overly hot and TBC's usually also aid in distributing the heat through out the part as to further aid in minimizing those cyclic stresses. Check out www.techlinecoatings.com for more info about these types of coatings and how they could help.
Thanks 632: When I talked to C and A I asked them about how many times you can tq these new rods and they claim as many times as a steel rod. I am also aware of the problems of letting the motor pull the cars rpm down when you go through the traps. I did not know how to get around it untill now. Any convertor maker you reccomend that knows what they are doing regarding this problem? I would rather bump the car into neutral, but the shifter I have will not allow that.
Thanks for the help guys, lots of good info and things to think about.
20k mile's on the street thats a lot of 1/4 mile pass' and a few cruz-ins