hydraulic roller to solid roller?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 99
From: Nova Scotia
hydraulic roller to solid roller?
what is invlolved? is it just swap the cam and pushrods, and maybe lifters? or does the block need some machining?will the heads need any machining? thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,025
Likes: 1
From: Billings MT
I did this same thing with my 406 and am glad I did.
Cam, Springs, Lifters, COMPOSITE DISTRIBUTOR GEAR, Pushrods, STUD GIRDLES
The CAPS ones I would strongly recommend. 4 distributor gears and 2 cams later comp told me there "could" be a metal incompatibility on one of their "street" roller.... Needless to say the composite gear worked flawlessly even on a damaged cam gear! 3000 miles later and it looks like new. Also, stud girdles. Your spring pressures, and [hopefully] your RPM will be up. It also helps to lock the lash settings in. I have not adjusted lash in 2500 miles, no change. 440lbs open pressure was enough to shear off a 3/8" stud.
Oh yeah, $1000 US sounds about right.
Cam, Springs, Lifters, COMPOSITE DISTRIBUTOR GEAR, Pushrods, STUD GIRDLES
The CAPS ones I would strongly recommend. 4 distributor gears and 2 cams later comp told me there "could" be a metal incompatibility on one of their "street" roller.... Needless to say the composite gear worked flawlessly even on a damaged cam gear! 3000 miles later and it looks like new. Also, stud girdles. Your spring pressures, and [hopefully] your RPM will be up. It also helps to lock the lash settings in. I have not adjusted lash in 2500 miles, no change. 440lbs open pressure was enough to shear off a 3/8" stud.
Oh yeah, $1000 US sounds about right.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 6,172
Likes: 11
From: somers, ny
Unless you plan to spin it up high, there's no reason to go to a solid roller over a hyd roller. It will cost 1000+ to convert and the benefits for a street car that will not see rpms above 6500 are far out weighed by the disadvantages (adjustment, noise, valve train stress, etc). This is coming from someone who believed the opposite until i actually went to a solid roller. Mine runs fine, but it's noisy and it took about 2500 miles for the lash to settle down. I'm also concerned about the longterm reliability of the valve train on the street with over .600 lift and almost 500lbs open pressures. I've used the best components and hope that it will live a long time, but since i dont even spin mine over 6500.....i wonder why i did it when a hyd roller would have yielded similar performance results. some people have had better experiences and i hope you do too if you go that route. good luck.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,892
Likes: 13
From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Originally Posted by ralph
Unless you plan to spin it up high, there's no reason to go to a solid roller over a hyd roller. It will cost 1000+ to convert and the benefits for a street car that will not see rpms above 6500 are far out weighed by the disadvantages (adjustment, noise, valve train stress, etc). This is coming from someone who believed the opposite until i actually went to a solid roller. Mine runs fine, but it's noisy and it took about 2500 miles for the lash to settle down. I'm also concerned about the longterm reliability of the valve train on the street with over .600 lift and almost 500lbs open pressures. I've used the best components and hope that it will live a long time, but since i dont even spin mine over 6500.....i wonder why i did it when a hyd roller would have yielded similar performance results. some people have had better experiences and i hope you do too if you go that route. good luck.
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