internally vs externally balanced
Last edited by hubes; Dec 30, 2004 at 12:49 PM.
Last edited by Russ Bellinis; Dec 31, 2004 at 12:43 PM.





If your going to be doing rpm less weight is better. I use light weight hollow drilled cranks with the smallest counter weights. The only external I ever owned was a piece of junk 393 stroker small block. The crank had massive heavy metal slugs welded into the crank and of course non SFI heavy damper. I was so dissapointed in it I sold it at a loss and went with a quality stroker motor.
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So to me, it really doesn't matter for most stuff. You are either going to add it on the outside of the #1 and #5 main cap, or on the inside of it by drilling crank and adding Mallory metal. It's all about the same thing when you're done.
*IF* you can do it internally, sure go for it..it's easier. But if you have to externally do it..go for that too. Spend money on something that makes you go faster. Even old Boss 429 in NASCAR were external balanced and did very well at mega rpms.
GM did the 400's and 454's externally because it was cheaper than coming up with a whole new setup for crank making. Worked fine. These days the aftermarket cranks are often being made with enough counterweight to allow internal stuff easily. GM did go internal on th enew 572, but again, they were making a whole 'nuther crank setup anyway, no reason not to design it in already. Uh.oh...we better not get into who actually makes all that stuff for the 572 huh?
JIM





Light weight cranks don't have heavy mallory metal slugs welded in. They have balancing holes drilled to loose even more weight.
Just look at the figures. I have a stroker SBC crank just under 40 lbs. I use the small SFI 6 1/4 inch damper. SFI flex plate and 9.5 inch TC. My external balanced stroker crank was 54 pounds and had heavy metal slugs welded in it. It had a 8 inch heavy damper that was twice the weight of my little 6 1/4 The matching flex plate wasn't SFI rated and had welded tabs.
Conservitively the rotating assembly is 20 pounds more which is equal to untold 1000's of pounds of inertia when it's spinning 7000+ rpm





For sure, if you can easily balance it internally, it's great and the best way. Getting rotating weight down by 20lbs is huge. It's all fun stuff when you think about it. The total weight of crank,flywheel and balancer are all rotating weight. It's interesting to see some folks that go to great lengths to reduce crank weight and then add a heavy flywheel on it. Once it's running it's all the same really...same with balancers, other than the flywheel effect of weight being further out from crank center. Sorta like a 10" 30# flywheel will act different than a 12" 30" flywheel.
Jeez...this is fun stuff!
JIM
I have an 406 internally balanced front crank using a stock SBC damper, and in the rear it is externally balanced using a 400CI balance plate with all clutch, flywheel etc, nuetrally balanced.
I had to drill the block to match the starter holes, machine metal from the back of the flywheel etc, just a lot of stuff I had not plannned on.
If the rotatting assembly is internally balanced, I think you have more options, less hassles.
But I am pretty new to all of the "specifics" and this is how I got into some of the issues that came up, being a newbie!
Larry











