more stroker questions on clearance
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,720
Likes: 19
From: Manhattan Beach Ca
more stroker questions on clearance
I'm about to check all my 383 clearances/interferences and have a couple of basic (dumb) questions.
When they say stock oil pan rails need to be notched, where is that? Is it in same place block edge would need to be grinded or are they talking about inside the pan where crank weights might hit?
Why do some people grind the rod bolts and not the block edge or cylinder bottoms?
Is it usually number 2 and 6 only that need to be checked?
When they say stock oil pan rails need to be notched, where is that? Is it in same place block edge would need to be grinded or are they talking about inside the pan where crank weights might hit?
Why do some people grind the rod bolts and not the block edge or cylinder bottoms?
Is it usually number 2 and 6 only that need to be checked?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by Surfer69
I'm about to check all my 383 clearances/interferences and have a couple of basic (dumb) questions.
When they say stock oil pan rails need to be notched, where is that? Is it in same place block edge would need to be grinded or are they talking about inside the pan where crank weights might hit?
When they say stock oil pan rails need to be notched, where is that? Is it in same place block edge would need to be grinded or are they talking about inside the pan where crank weights might hit?
Originally Posted by Surfer69
Why do some people grind the rod bolts and not the block edge or cylinder bottoms?
The engine should be "trial" assembled and checked for interference. Grinding should only be done where, and to the extent, necessary. "Stroker" rods should keep the grinding to a minimum.
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