2000 trans am mod help
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
2000 trans am mod help
I have a 2000 auto trans am(not ws6). It was stock and so far I put an hooker exhaust and SLP box on it. I just got long tubes as a gift last week and planned to have it installed and dynoed professionally. I've called around and I'm getting mixed reviews.
I've been told to yes do it but then on the other hand another shop said that it won't make enough power to dyno it. He recommended to just do a hand held tuner. He said to do a pully and TB whic I didn't plan on doing yet because of my budget.
What else do I need to feel a difference in power from stock. My goal is to feel a nice difference but not make it a race car by any means.
Can I expect a different after the headers or what do you guys recommend.
Thanks
I've been told to yes do it but then on the other hand another shop said that it won't make enough power to dyno it. He recommended to just do a hand held tuner. He said to do a pully and TB whic I didn't plan on doing yet because of my budget.
What else do I need to feel a difference in power from stock. My goal is to feel a nice difference but not make it a race car by any means.
Can I expect a different after the headers or what do you guys recommend.
Thanks
#2
Safety Car
Member Since: Dec 2009
Location: Near Cold Lake Alberta
Posts: 4,328
Received 713 Likes
on
370 Posts
2022 C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified
C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
Headers will make a difference no question. LTs typically make the LS1's run rich. A tune is required to get the most out of the headers and exhaust.
Here is the kicker - you have to decide what your end goal is for the car. Bolt-ons, Cam, Heads & Cam, etc.
Once you do that, stick to it and build to that specific target. There are plenty of weaknesses on 4th gens (15 year current owner - 99 SS H/C/I/E Stock bottom end).
Another thing is your state emission laws and what is required. A tune can turn off your EGR & AIR for removal (recommended), and also turn off your rear O2s (Catalytic converter performance) and enable you to run without cats and no trip the Check Engine Light. All depends on you local laws.
Final thought, what size primaries on the headers you have and what brand?
Here is the kicker - you have to decide what your end goal is for the car. Bolt-ons, Cam, Heads & Cam, etc.
Once you do that, stick to it and build to that specific target. There are plenty of weaknesses on 4th gens (15 year current owner - 99 SS H/C/I/E Stock bottom end).
Another thing is your state emission laws and what is required. A tune can turn off your EGR & AIR for removal (recommended), and also turn off your rear O2s (Catalytic converter performance) and enable you to run without cats and no trip the Check Engine Light. All depends on you local laws.
Final thought, what size primaries on the headers you have and what brand?
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
#6
Safety Car
Member Since: Dec 2009
Location: Near Cold Lake Alberta
Posts: 4,328
Received 713 Likes
on
370 Posts
2022 C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified
C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
2000 trans am mod help
Keep the cats, especially to eliminate resonating in the cabin. You won't need to tune out your rear O2s with cats but you will need extensions for all 4 O2 harnesses. You also won't see too much for gains until you tune it (a good dyno tune is worth every penny) - find a tuner that is good with LS cars.
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Keep the cats, especially to eliminate resonating in the cabin. You won't need to tune out your rear O2s with cats but you will need extensions for all 4 O2 harnesses. You also won't see too much for gains until you tune it (a good dyno tune is worth every penny) - find a tuner that is good with LS cars.
#9
Team Owner
2000 WS6 owner here, thought I'd chime in.
I know they're pricey (especially the heads) but I'd recommend getting heads, cam, and intake before bothering with a tune. You're only talking a handful of horses to gain from a tune after adding pretty much only headers and a lid/exhaust, and you're just going to need/want another tune the second you do get those mods.
Personally, I'd wait. My 0.02.
I know they're pricey (especially the heads) but I'd recommend getting heads, cam, and intake before bothering with a tune. You're only talking a handful of horses to gain from a tune after adding pretty much only headers and a lid/exhaust, and you're just going to need/want another tune the second you do get those mods.
Personally, I'd wait. My 0.02.
#10
Burning Brakes
Well I kind of have a comparison performance wise for you on tuning.
My car was a 2001 camaro ss 6 speed with 168k miles
Muffler delete and slp lid: 13.79@104
Added longtubes: 13.3@107
Added fast 92/92: 13.2@109
Tuned: 12.8@111
From there did a off the shelf cam and 4.10s with some et streets.
Dyno: 428/394 and did 11.91@119
My car was a 2001 camaro ss 6 speed with 168k miles
Muffler delete and slp lid: 13.79@104
Added longtubes: 13.3@107
Added fast 92/92: 13.2@109
Tuned: 12.8@111
From there did a off the shelf cam and 4.10s with some et streets.
Dyno: 428/394 and did 11.91@119
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Well, I dropped the car off this morning for LT install and Dyno. Im hoping for a decent gain in power and a louder deeper sound. Im regretting putting the hooker exhaust on now. I want it to be a bit louder so you can hear me coming but we'll see how it turns out after the headers. Also doing s new plugs and wires and motor mounts.
I'll post before and after results. Next I'll do heads and cam all at once then retune.
Any other advice I'd greatly appreciate.
I'll post before and after results. Next I'll do heads and cam all at once then retune.
Any other advice I'd greatly appreciate.
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
#15
Racer
Thread Starter
Well this sucks. I went to pick up my car hour and half away to get there and I find out that there's a problem. The header pipe is hitting the steering shaft so I can turn. The brand is OBX so I know they're not the best. Now I need to battle with the company for a refund. Luckily the transaction is through PayPal so I hope I get my money back.
Now I needed to reorder a new set and pay double labor. I went with pacesetter. They're popular for the f body.
Hoping it will be done by Friday best case scenario. Keep you posted.
Now I needed to reorder a new set and pay double labor. I went with pacesetter. They're popular for the f body.
Hoping it will be done by Friday best case scenario. Keep you posted.
#16
Race Director
Pacesetter is a lot better than the obx a tune will for sure help its worth maybe 25 hp and there isn't a lot of weaknesses with the car, pushrods can bend easy if revved to high you said you have a auto so you should be fine there unless they raise the rev limiter up if you start getting real crazy with hp the rod bolts are weak and if you have sticky tires rear ends will break other than that what your doing you don't have to worry.
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
It put down 331 rwhp and 346 rwtq. I didn't know this but it had gears done before I bough it so had 3.23s I think. Good stuff right !
#19
Burning Brakes
Nice. Its good to find those hidden goodies. I took a 3lb sledge hammer to the frame where it was hitting to no avail. The aftermarket exhausts on these cars hang really low. If ground clearance is an issue then you may have to notch the piece where it is hitting off.
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
Yeah, Typically the exhaust hangs so low on the f body. Surprisingly the pacesetters with the hooker exhaust fit pretty snug up there. Driving behind it you can seen anything. I happy about that. No scrapping yet.