Is 1968 Silverstone Silver and 1969 Cortez Silver the same color just different names?
Is the paint code 986 used for both?
Thanks


[This message has been edited by 68rdstr (edited 08-01-2001).]

 

68rdstr, the paint code used for both years in 986, but I don't know if the color is exactly the same. BTW, the 68 color is Silver(s)tone Silver. What does your paint supplier say...can he show you some "chips"?

 

The Colors show up as two different stock numbers in those years so I would be inclined to believe they are not the same. Lucite, Rinshed-Mason or Ditzler all list them as different

 

Chuck, I'm using a Sikkens microfiche that
shows the 986 paint code listing the Cortez silver paint formula for the 69 model year. It does not have a listing for the 1968 Silverstone Silver.

 

68rdstr, from what Ron D is saying, it sounds like Sikkens michofiche is incomplete.

If you want the correct color, you may have to go to another supplier. As we get 32 years away from when these cars were new, it is easy for a paint manufacturer to assume that one color silver is just as good as another if they aren't tuned to the restoration hobby.

Some of the paint manufacturers (PPG, DuPont) have tech centers that can give you a formula to match the original acrylic lacquer color with modern finishes. I understand the tech center formulas are very close matches. What are you planning to use anyway? Lacquer? Single stage urethane?

 

from the 1968 paint combination chart 986 silverstone Silver: Lucite # 4907-L, Rinshed-Mason # A-2000, and Ditzler # 8596. Hope it helps

 

One thing you should keep in mind... professional painters that are members of the NCRS are no longer recommending acrylic lacquer.

In NCRS, now, the objective is for the paint to have the "appearance" of lacquer. The new lacquers are different formulations from the original finishes, are are highly susceptible to damage from bird droppings and acid rain.

For long term durability, go with single stage urethane. Shadow mask the jambs and paint them with urethane flattened about 40? percent. This from a paint seminar at NCRS national convention in Galveston.

Paint zealots that were looking for BC/CC and urethane under every rock ten years ago are now saying: "Forgettabout lacquer, go with single stage urethane."

 

Thanks all. I'm using a bc/cc and going to be painting the car this week. I don't know if I'll ever get the car judged I'm just trying to get the right color of paint to match the trim tag. I also have blocked sanded the hell out of it

 

The body shop I went to had a PC program that has all the Chevy paint codes, including my 1968 International Blue. The guy gave me a printout that showed all the individual tints and components that made up the color (I only got a pint for touchup). You could easily compare the 2 printouts to see what differs in the 2 colors. MJ

 

Silverstone and Cortez silvers are not the same. Silverstone Silver is '68 only. 4907-L for Dupont; A-2000 for Rinshed-Mason; and 8596 for Ditzler. Codes are 5032-L Dupont; A-2108 Rinshed-Mason; and 2059 Ditzler for Cortez Silver. If memory serves, Cortez Silver is brighter than Silverstone Silver. Apparently Silverstone Silver is another of those one-year-only thingies we '68 drivers have learned to live with and love.

 

68rdstr, I am not trying to sell you on any one way to paint your car, but trying to make sure you know about all the angles. If you ever have ANY plans of having the car judged, I would try to duplicate the jamb painting technique above and add color (50 percent?) to tint the clear.

It is fairly easy for experienced paint judges to identify BC/CC because of the depth you get with the clear. If that is the look you want, and that is the higher priority for you, then go for it. You will take a penalty in judging, but if the rest of the car is VERY GOOD, I believe you could still get the highest flight award.

 

Once again, thanks for all the valuable advice. This proves this is the place to be for all your corvette needs. The painting of my car has been a long an slow process. I worked out a deal with a friend of mine who happens to also be a topnotch bodyman and painter for me to do all the labor intensive work and he is giving me his guidance and painting experience. I've had to replace the the front clip (used new top surround and NOS fenders)and the right rear quarter panel(NOS). I wanted the body work to be slick so I took the steps of guide coating and blocking sanding each phase of the painting process. Guide coated/block sand the the bare glass after paint stripped and body work completed. Guide coated/blocksand the paint sealer/surfacer. Guide coated/blocksand the primer coats. The primer has a sheen to it.
I've been transporting the car to and from my shop where the bodywork was being done to his shop to get the painting done in his spray booth. He swears by the Sikkens painting process. I'm tired and will be glad when Vetta (my wife calls it my mistress) is finished, so I can start putting it all back together and maybe one day actually drive it.

Easy Mike, I'm leaning toward the 69 Cortez silver because of the brightness of it.

 

If you want to drive your car much, I would recommend a base coat/clear coat. I had mine done about 9 years ago and the paint still looks great with many miles on it. Mine is a Cortez silver '70 model. Silverstone has more of a gray tint to the color than the Cortez silver. I also had the front end replaced with NOS pieces. Good luck.....

 

Well Bob, I thought about it and thought about it. I decided to go with the cortez silver after I compared the two. Here's what it looks like so far. I'm pleased with the result.


[Modified by 68rdstr, 4:48 PM 8/9/2001]


[Modified by 68rdstr, 4:50 PM 8/9/2001]

 

Hey, I recognize that color!!! Was Sikkens able to match the color code directly, or did it cross to a current base/clear mix? My Sherwin Williams paint actually crossed to a '98 Nissan silver. Looks about like your does. Ignore the bluish tint, this was shot late at twilight.



Shannon


[Modified by sb69coupe, 7:41 PM 8/9/2001]

 

986 Cortez Silver here too, with some charcoal two-tone. I was told that since the Cortez Silver is a Heavy metallic you need a "swirler" in the paint while you apply the paint? Is this necessary? Looks good!

Len

 

Beautiful car! ;)




[Modified by Flareside, 8:51 PM 8/14/2001]

 

Great photos and great car!!! :eek:

Roberto, NCRS #30019, RMC

 

1970 Stingray, no swirler. The last coat of silver applied was called a drop coat. This coat is what made the silver blend evenly.