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I just pulled a big block using this method, with one variation.
I ran one bolt through the chain and into the rear of the driver-side head and the other into the front of the passenger-side head, where accessories are usually mounted. I prefer this method simply because the chain doesn't have any weird kinks in it when the weight takes up the slack.
Ps Pat, when you have the engine out send a few shots of your engine compartment. IE the Fire wall and inner fenders if your harness in still in the car. pritty please Email mrdevries@home.com
That set-up should work, but watch that you don't bugger your intake gasket surfaces in the process.
Probably only about a kazillion engines have been pulled using that technique, but I like 67Heavens suggestion a little better. My preference is to leave the intake manifold in place, and use an engine pull plate that bolts to the carburetor mounting flange, but I would do a lot of inquiring before I used it on an aluminum manifold.
Hi Patrick,
Do you have any of those lift hooks that are used by the factory to hoist the motors around? I like them because they utilize two intake bolts on each end instead of one & they have a large hole(1" dia.) thru which a chain hook can be used.
HTH, Bob L.
Patric dont be cheap you can get a cheap chain made for this with a big ring so you can twist the motor around a local auto parts store would also have it http://www.autopart.com/Tools/file/part76.htm
Remember watch where you put your fingers
His engine doesn't have accessory bolt holes in the heads.
This is a simple one-man job, if you have an engine "leveler" to hang on the hook of your cherry-picker. They have a crank and traveling nut so you can alter the angle of the engine package as you remove/install it, and have four chains - two at the rear, two at the front. Attach the chains to the end intake bolt holes with 3/8"-16 Grade 8 bolts and hardened washers. Some parts stores have them, and Summit has them for about $60.00; I got mine ("Trans-Dapt" brand) from Summit many years ago, and have removed/installed countless engines with no helper - nothing to it when you have the right tools.
I agree 100% with JohnZ. A buddy recently purchased a leveler as he was installing a 429 into his 68 Ranchero GT and I've never seen a slicker install. I cring when I remember the times I've banged firewalls with heads. :smash:
I'm suggesting running the bolts in parallel to the cam/crank, not into the intake mounting locations.
Into the front face and rear face of the heads.
Sorry if I mislead you, Patrick. Hope you didn't spend any time scratching your head looking for those accessory mounting-holes on the face of the heads. I shouldn't have assumed that small-blocks would have them like the big-blocks do.
I feel like a student working hard on a test, and you're the teacher walking around the room looking over everyone's shoulder.........that's a compliment! :cheers: