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After much investigation and consultation, we have strong evidence that the 1967 roadster I bought was originally an L-71. It has all the hallmarks, e.g. large copper radiator, no expansion tank, driver's side hood brace, 6500 rpm tach, M-21 transmission, 3:70 posi. rear end with u-joint caps, F-41 suspension, transistor ignition, no p/s, no p/b, no a/c (I know these options were available on the L-71; it's just that MANY guys didn't order the power- robbing options on the Hi Perf. engines). I know everybody and his brother tries to counterfeit these cars, but we have every reason to believe that this car is the real thing.
The dufus that owned it before me put a 350 in it. I tried to talk to him about the car, but it was hard to have a coherent conversation with him. I think he had a penchant for controlled substances, if you know what I mean. THe VIN and trim tags checked out, thanks to all you guys help on here.
I could put a 454 or 502 crate in it, but i'd really like to give "correct" restoration a try on this car. Can any of you guys point me in the right directions for obtaining a "correct"(is that the right term?) L-71 for this car?
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
P.S.
I also got the L-71 3x2 intake with the correct date and carbs for the car! Just no heads and block(@#$$%!!@)
Mass,
There are folks who advertise in Hemmings, blocks, heads etc. "Ken in Ohio" comes to mind.
I also know a local guy who may have a L71 block and heads. Will investigate.
Be forewarned though, the peicemeal route is usually pricier than the crate route.
MV, some consider the replacement of the original engine with a restamped, properly dated replacement as "restoration". I am not among those because at some point in the future, a selling owner may forget to mention that the engine is a restamped replacement...at that point, with this simple little omission, it ceases to be a "restoration" and becomes fraud. Some say, "Oh, I don't plan to sell the car"...well, you've heard that you can't take it with you? Someone will sell the car sometime; if not you, then your heirs.
There is only one reason to buy a restamped replacement engine: the loss of the engine stamps result in such a significant financial depreciation, that people cannot resist trying to roll back time by buying a restamp. In my opinion, the best approach for this car would be to buy a correctly dated replacement engine, but forget about getting it restamped. It will drive the same, and it will look the same. As you plan your restoration, be careful that you don't put more into the car, including the purchase price, than you can get out of it. I don't mean to reduce this to cold, impersonal consideration of money, but I have to assume that you wouldn't enjoy throwing handfuls of hundred dollar bills in the gutter. JMHO.
Have you tried tracing down your original block? I found my original 54 engine after 20 years, sitting about 20 miles from my house. Re-installed it last winter. Have a friend who bought a 64 roadster project to build as a "driver". Had a NOM. Painted it base coat/clear coat white with a 427 hood. Put a red leather interior in it.....67 bolt on wheels, etc. Ran like a scalded dog. Traced the history of the car, talked to previous owners, and BINGO, one of the previous owners had the original complete engine in his shed. He didn't re-restore the car to correct specs..color, interior, etc., but he did put the OM back in it. It's worth a try. You have nothing to lose. Chuck
There's a guy in your neck of the woods, Chuck Aleksinas, that has complete L71 engines, bare blocks, short blocks, heads, etc. for your car. He is in Connecticut and advertises in Hemmings. I don't have his number handy but can find it if you are unable to. I bought my L71 short block from him. Correctly dated for my car, I didn't restamp it. His stuff is not cheap, but nice. I'd rather pay a little more and know I'm not getting someone elses blown up, rusty, crusty junk. I've got a litle over 5K in a complete, all correct 67 L71.