Factory Correct Resto Corvette Restoration Tips, Bodywork, Numbers Matching, Period-Correct Modifications or Original Condition

1968 Frame Off

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Old 02-07-2011, 11:19 AM
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twinpack
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Default 1968 Frame Off

OK I will hope to wake this forum up. I am in the process of restoring a barn find. 1968 vert. It is not the original color. But it has not been molested. All the little pieces are there except for the steering wheel and two AG rims. I can find these parts. It is a 327/350HP 4 speed car and numbers matching. I was going to do like most and redo the car to my liking. But after researching the cars numbers and ownership (I bought from the second owner) and the fact that after learning of having a lot of one off parts (which I have) I will restor back to original. It probably wont be NCRS but close. My real question is the 327 motor came with 11:1 CR. Most I talk with say to lower the CR to 10:1. This is going against the grain for me. I understand the point of lowering the CR but I was wondering of you out there that keep your cars original how did you or do you deal with the gas octane today.
Old 02-07-2011, 02:49 PM
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JohnZ
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The actual gas octane rating today isn't any different than it was in 1968 - only the posted/advertised measurement method has changed. Leave the compression ratio as it was built to begin with, use the original factory camshaft and distributor advance curve, and enjoy the car as it was built originally.

Most people haven't a clue about the relationship between static compression ratio and dynamic compression ratio resulting from using factory cams; aftermarket cams close the intake valve too early (in the quest for more top-end power), and they won't work with 11:1 static compression. Stick with the factory parts and tuning specs and it'll run just fine.
Old 02-07-2011, 05:40 PM
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twinpack
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
The actual gas octane rating today isn't any different than it was in 1968 - only the posted/advertised measurement method has changed. Leave the compression ratio as it was built to begin with, use the original factory camshaft and distributor advance curve, and enjoy the car as it was built originally.

Most people haven't a clue about the relationship between static compression ratio and dynamic compression ratio resulting from using factory cams; aftermarket cams close the intake valve too early (in the quest for more top-end power), and they won't work with 11:1 static compression. Stick with the factory parts and tuning specs and it'll run just fine.
Thank you for the response. You have raised my comfort level.
Old 02-08-2011, 11:24 AM
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Chromie69
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John you nailed that one good! I got a stock 350..350hp car..I run the highest pump gas I can find usually a 93 octane and put cam 2 in when I want real response out if the car..it doesn't bog or wait to go with that in it..I think its rated for 110 octane and it smells good too..its 6.70$ a gallon and you can blow thru a tank in ten minutes if you want to..but it is a very fun ten minutes!
Old 02-11-2011, 03:46 PM
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North of 40
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I have always ran Premium gas for my 327/350hp motor in my 66, stock original.

Have not tried Regular gas, but am thinking of playing with the idea for the type of driving that I do just around town, nice sunny days only.

Is Premium necessary and what can I expect to experience with running Regular gas?

Any feedback will be appreciated.
Old 02-11-2011, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by North of 40
I have always ran Premium gas for my 327/350hp motor in my 66, stock original.

Have not tried Regular gas, but am thinking of playing with the idea for the type of driving that I do just around town, nice sunny days only.

Is Premium necessary and what can I expect to experience with running Regular gas?

Any feedback will be appreciated.
I know with mine being a 350/350..it says to be a 11.1 comp..ratio..it ran ok on the 92-93 octane gas that is around here..10% ethanol..but I could not get the idle to be what I think it should be..an old teacher of mine said the car ain't setup right untill I can put this glass of water on the air cleaner and it don't shake...it would bog slightly on acceleration..a little..so I have found that if I put about 6-7 gallons of the happy gas in there with the 93 to top it off..it runs like it should..starts faster..idle smooth as glass..but for everyday puttin around the 92-93 seemed to work fine for me..I haven't used the 87 octane..but I may hold back on the gas a bit or even cut the timing down some..don't want the pings..the way I look at it is that I bust the you know what every day to pay for this toy and will treat it as such..the best of everything.
Old 09-15-2011, 12:19 AM
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Default 68 327/350

I am still driving a original owner 68 327/350 M21 3:70 and using 93 pump gas. I have no driving problems. I have been using a Holley double pumper 6210 650 on it since about 1974.
Old 10-13-2011, 10:31 PM
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SouthernSon
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Originally Posted by North of 40
I have always ran Premium gas for my 327/350hp motor in my 66, stock original.

Have not tried Regular gas, but am thinking of playing with the idea for the type of driving that I do just around town, nice sunny days only.

Is Premium necessary and what can I expect to experience with running Regular gas?

Any feedback will be appreciated.
Modern engines have knock sensors to retard timing when it occurs. Your 1966 doesn't. Just pay the premium tax and smile knowing that your higher compression gives you enough more power to pay for the difference.
Old 10-14-2011, 08:17 AM
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shemp
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Lets see some pics of the new find That is the car I am looking for my next project 68-72 vert. Shemp
Old 10-14-2011, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by twinpack
...OK I will hope to wake this forum up...
Gotta get up earlier if you want to do that. You may want to take a look at the NCRS.
http://www.ncrs.org/

Good luck with the restoration.
Old 12-19-2011, 04:33 PM
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twinpack
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Default 68 restoration

Update: I had to back off working on my project due to 3 natural disasters in my area. First my town had a tornado come through, second a hurricane, and third a early freak snow storm. All of which caused property damage. This has drain funds and emotions. With that now in the past I am ready with my wifes blessings to continue. Stan at 2nd Generation Restoration has been patient and I can't thank him enough. The car is finally stripped and body repairs will start this week. It will still be a couple months before I devoice the body from the frame and get the chassis back home to dismantle and restore along with the drive train. I have not wasted time though, I have been restoring all the parts I removed before dropping the car at Stan's place. Here are some progress pictures.
Day I picked it up.
[IMG][/IMG]
At Home

At Stan's

Small Parts
[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
Old 02-13-2012, 02:05 PM
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twinpack
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Originally Posted by shemp
Lets see some pics of the new find That is the car I am looking for my next project 68-72 vert. Shemp
In the barn
[IMG][/IMG]
Day I picked it up.
[IMG][/IMG]
At the body shop

Storing interior parts




Last edited by twinpack; 02-13-2012 at 02:07 PM.

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