The battery (original OEM) has gone Tango Uniform. Not a surprise given nearly 11 years of service.

So what's the best battery and the place to buy a replacement? Keeping in mind I use a Battery Tender jr to maintain it and drive less than 3000 miles per year. (as if that makes a difference).

So I plan to go buy the battery and bring it home and put it in myself. Is there anything I need to be aware of before frying my wiring harness or screwing up my key fob codes?

Never had to worry about this before but then I've never had a car that had so many electrical features long enough to replace the battery.

 

In the words of Yogi Berra, "It's like deja-vu all over again."

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...t-battery.html

That being said, I've been happy with my yellow-top Optima - there was a lot of discussion in your previous thread on whether Optima is "optimal" though due to it's construction. It's doing really well in my C6 that only gets driven when the weather or roads are deemed too crappy (a technical term) for my Z06. Otherwise, it's hooked up to a battery tender.

 

Yep, I knew I was going to get sage advice from you, but is the Optima really worth the money? I mean I can't really complain about the OEM battery lasting over 10 years?

Even so where's the best place,locally to buy Optima?

 

Pep Boys used to carry stock of Optima batteries. There is one in Everett or in the vicinity of Everett.

My take is any battery that goes 11 years is a pretty good battery. If your considering Optima another OEM battery may be another god choice. Probably a little cheaper than Optima and likely to last another 11 years.

 

Costco used to carry Optimas at a great price- got 2 deep cycle (blue top?) for our boat a few years ago. Not sure if they still sell them, but that is where I am going to start my hunt for my next battery.

 

My Previous Z I had the original and when it went belly up I put in an ​Odyssey that was sold under the Diehard name at Sears (and $75 cheaper then the real Odyssey), my current one has an Optima, don't remember if its Red or Yellow top. I've heard over the years Optima's are not as good as they used to be, but peeps keep buying them so who knows.

 

If you've had the OEM battery for 10+ years, I'd go with that. I went with the ultra-deluxe Optima because I've had issues with my C6 since it was basically new - If not started or hooked up to a battery tender for 5 or more days, the battery will be dead. I've paid two shops to trace the drain - fixed 3-4 suspected culprits. Now it discharges my battery slower but still more than it should. Hence, after going through a new batter every couple years, I went with the Optima yellow-top. It's supposed to go back to a full charge even if it's gone dead.

 

Costco brand (Kirkland) regular car batteries are made by Interstate. I have Interstate batteries in both Corvettes and never had a problem with them. The shop where I worked sold only Interstate and AC Delco batteries. It was amazing to see just how many batteries from the chain parts stores and WalMart that were installed in a wide variety of cars would fail in just 2-4 years.

When you change batteries, you may want to consider using the battery tender as a 12v power source so that you don't lose any programming. If you have the alligator clip ends, attach the positive clamp to the post just outside the underhood fuse box and the other clamp to a good ground.

Most auto repair shops have a 12v power source that plugs into the ALDL port and provides 12v power. Then simply swap out the batteries.

 

I thought it might be better to drive the car to wherever I buy a new battery so hooked up my portable charger. It's been years since I've used it socan;t remember what the readings should be if he battery won't hold a charge

I was surprisd when I plugged it in and the ampmeter showed it was taking a mere 1 amp. That's okay, isn't it? I realize it may take hours to get even a reasonable charge at this rate, but it is charging - or seems to be. I can't increase the voltage since the charger only has a two-position switch that allows a choice of 6V or 12V.

How can I tell when it's charged enough to start the car? or am i

?

 

Well that's why I have Ctek smart chargers, two of them in fact. They give status of the batteries health and charge status....and can even try to recondition a battery.

 

Never heard of such a thing, John. My charger is so old the model number is in roman numerals. Charging now at 2 amps and the doors open. (which probably dropped the amerage back to 1)

Say, you're just a few miles from me. How many extension cords to you have? I'll buy you lunch...

 

With the charger disconnected, what's the voltage at the battery terminals using a digital voltmeter? A fully discharged battery would be 12.0v or less. It could be that the battery has a dead cell or an internal short. Does the charger have a voltmeter? What's the listed max output in Amps? A one amp charging rate may not be enough to allow the battery to take a charge. Is there an AutoZone near you? They may have a large rental charger that could apply 15-20 amps and that would be enough to get the battery charged to where you could drive the car to a shop.

In any event, the battery should be charged up and have a load test done. That will determine if you need a new battery. If it's OK, then just keep a maintainer on it.

 

This is it Phil.....

I also own a Battery condition thingy, forget its name. Suck up some fluid, and depending on where the floating ***** fall is how well the cell is health wise. Got a dead cell in an Autozone battery years ago, the dude at the counter had no clue when I explained it to him. It's just plain old physics...

 

John, are you sure that's not an anti-freeze checker thingy?

 

Okay, since I'm never one to miss an opportunity to turn a simple task into a major project, I have decided I really do need a new battery. I was hoping the D-cell battery-powered battery charger would at last allow me the power to gain normal entry into the car and maybe even enough to start the engine.

Alas, this is not to be, apparently. So, the question now becomes...

Do I jump start it and coast to Costco or Les Schwab (Sears is uphill from me) or do I "simply" remove the old OEM battery and go get a new one and replace it myself?

If this was a big hydroplane the decision would be simple. Can't find a Costco or a Les Schwab or even a Batteries and Bulbs store with a dock. BTW,dos anyone know anything about those "Duracell batteries that B&B sells?

So, looking at my OEM battery, in situ, there's a couple of things that trouble me. Firstly, the cables do not appear to be the "conventional" clamps that hold the cables in place on the posts. Do I need replacement cables? (I presume this would be a non-issue if I could gt the car to the store)

The battery seems to be held in place by a small bracket near the base. No big deal, but I can even see what's holding it in place on the backside. Another bolt like the one in front, or....?

Other than resetting the clock, maybe the radio stations and indexing the windows, what else need I be aware of?

Maybe I'll just leave it where it sits, buy some bales of hay and advertise it as a barn find.

C'mon you guys. his can't be as difficult as I am making it out to be...

 

Bring your car and new battery to my house and i will swap it for you.

You will be required to watch and learn.

You will lose all radio presets and clock settings.

No, really, I will be happy to help.


Yes I have a 69. But my bride has an 07. I do all work myself.

Scott

 

It is super simple to replace the battery. I have replaced 2 now on my C6. Next time I am back at the house in Kingston, I have to replace the one in it (Didn't get a battery tender in time). Girlfriend says it is toast.

Front and back there is a bolt holding the battery down. Just use a socket.

Remove battery and put a new one in. It is that simple. Sometimes you wont have to re-index the windows. Rest of the settings should be fine if you just keep it plugged into your battery tender via the cig lighter.

 

As so often happens now that I'm as old as Muffler Bearing it finally dawned on me (pun intended) this morning that there might be something on the internet about replacing the battery.

There was and it looks pretty simple and all those little bits and pieces I was confused over are no longer of concern.

Thank you all for the offers to help. Now that I feel so stupid I'd like to suggest that you don't bother to read this admission of embarrassment.

 

It really is that simple!
Just use care to not short the battery when disconnecting the battery leads with a tool.

Scott

 

Isn't the internet great for that sort of stuff. That and the forum itself.

I used both just last week to learn how to remove all the innards from the driver's side door on the 95 to replace the window regulator which had the poor manners to give it up in the fully down position. This made access to the lower of the 3 bolts holding the window glass to the regulator a bit of a challenge.

Perhaps it's because the C6 just hasn't been around enough for everything to break there are not as many documentaries. The C4 has been around so long that there are lots of well documented how-to's and there are still a fair number of long time C4 owners on the forum.

I finally broke down this year and bought a Deltran battery tender and it works great. It only charges at 1.25 amp but that's all I need to charge up the battery overnight.

Phil if you go to Sears you might be able to swap one of your duplicate Maisto 1953 Isettas for a good battery tender.