Have not used this product before so I have a couple of questions for the experienced painters. I will be using my HVLP system for application and need to know the best size nozzle for epoxy. Should I apply a medium or heavy coat and is this a one coat and done or multiple coats better with what kind of drying time between coats? Can this primer be thinned if necessary and if so, what type thinner? Once again, thanks in advance for your reply.
Norm

 

I use DPLF as an adhesion coat and as a sealer. As an adhesion primer or a base over a properly prepared surface, be it fiberglass, aluminum or steel, I like to shoot it mixed with the hardener (either 401 or 402, remembering 401 has an induction period where you have to let the mix sit 30 minutes after mixing prior to painting) but without any reducer. If you are using it as a base coat (the first coat) you are not looking for film build but just to give it a good coat for the subsequent layers to adhere to (and in some cases seal raw fiberglass for instance). Everyone's concept of how thick to spray can vary but two medium coats is sufficient with a decent tack time in between of fifteen minutes in a normal temperature environment. PPG says to use two wet coats so if your medium coat is not real wet then substitute a little wetter coat. My idea of wet happens to be real wet which I personally leave for flowing out finish coats, so keep in mind it should not be sprayed dry. As to the tip size PPG suggests 1.4 to 1.6 but you could also use a 1.8 without any real harm.

As to reducing you can use the DT reducers. I use DT 870 when I use the DPLF as a sealer coat over properly sanded and cured primer (just prior to my finish coats). You could use other reducers but too slow a reducer and it will stay wet too long and a fast reducer may dry too fast and too dry and not be as effective (my opinion). When I use it as a sealer I am hoping to seal in any potential problems and hopefully avoid any swelling issues. Some believe this is unnecessary which is fine we all have our own habits good or bad. I try to avoid problems so I use it as a precaution. That being said I am not a big fan of film build as this can lead to chipping etc so my sealer coat I want thinned (with the DT870-I use 2 parts DPLF then one part 401, let sit for 30 minutes and then I thin it with 1/2 part DT870). It has worked well for me. Good luck-Jim

 

Very valuable info that will be of great help. Always good to hear from someone that has been there and did it the right way.
Thanks Jim,
Norm

 

the size of your air cap dictates the size of your orange peel. (1.3-1.4 good sized cap and nozzle) this would be considered the sealer coat before starting base coating.

1.5-1.7 would be your primer/block sanding caps.

 

I have a 1.0, 1.4, and a 1.6 so it looks like this should work out pretty good. My first coat will be mainly for sealing up all the glass work and skim coat of bondo in several areas. Looking forward to finding out how all this will look once it is shot.
Thanks Derek,
Norm

 

Just a quick note to thank Jim and Derek for their valuable insight on how to shoot epoxy primer with HVLP system. I used a 1.6 nozzle and it was beautiful. Really covers great and the laydown was better than expected. Now the fun part of blocking this thing out. Corvette forum has some of the most experienced members you can find anywhere. If you can't find the answer here, forget about it and break out the Crown Royal.
Thanks to all,
Norm

 

Go to PPG.com and download the data sheet for DPLF or do a web search for DPLF. The web sherch is easier to do. It will answer all your question. I would attach the file but, I don't know how.

Hope the helps,

Danny

 

You don't need to block epoxy. Spray your high build primer right over it and then block that. then seal it with epoxy.

Danny