paint process/prep
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 353
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From: West Point MS
paint process/prep
So I am debating the idea of whether or not to try to do most of my bodywork myself or take it to a body shop. The paint that is on 75 coupe is not a good job and I don't think it has ever been stripped down to the original primer. I have a few questions/concerns I hope that you can address.
1. When you strip the old paint, how far down do you go?
2. What is the next step after you have the car stripped?
3. Is it wise to redo the factory bonded areas?
4. How many coats of primer,sealers,paint, and clear coat are needed?
I have some bodywork experience but never on a fiberglass body. I don't mind the work and have the time to put in on it. I just don't want to have someone else do a "halfway" job on my car when I can do most of the work myself. I am definitely thinking I will take it somewhere and have them shoot the base and clear coats. Are there any specific questions I should ask a body shop if I decide to go that route?
Thanks for your input and help.
v/r,
Tim
1. When you strip the old paint, how far down do you go?
2. What is the next step after you have the car stripped?
3. Is it wise to redo the factory bonded areas?
4. How many coats of primer,sealers,paint, and clear coat are needed?
I have some bodywork experience but never on a fiberglass body. I don't mind the work and have the time to put in on it. I just don't want to have someone else do a "halfway" job on my car when I can do most of the work myself. I am definitely thinking I will take it somewhere and have them shoot the base and clear coats. Are there any specific questions I should ask a body shop if I decide to go that route?
Thanks for your input and help.
v/r,
Tim
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 22
From: Yooperville MI
My answers are high level.
1. When you strip the old paint, how far down do you go? If you are going to strip, take it all the way to the SMC body, don't leave anything behind especially if you use liquid stripper.
2. What is the next step after you have the car stripped? You will clean, then sand the SMC in preparation for the primer and repair any damage or cracks.
3. Is it wise to redo the factory bonded areas? Yes, the procedure is your call, but you can refill them for a factory look or glass them for a smooth look. If you use liquid stripper you must remove the filler and redo.
4. How many coats of primer,sealers,paint, and clear coat are needed? There are several methods to choose from for the first layer of paint, one is to lay down 2 coats of epoxy, fill the repairs you made, then start the blocking process with a 2k primer. The number of coats depends on the condition of the body and how straight you want it. A good quality base color will require 2 coats, and depending on which clear you choose, 2 coats is usually the minimum.
Are there any specific questions I should ask a body shop if I decide to go that route? You will want to use the same paint line for your undercoats as their topcoats, so that your work and their work is compatible with each other.
1. When you strip the old paint, how far down do you go? If you are going to strip, take it all the way to the SMC body, don't leave anything behind especially if you use liquid stripper.
2. What is the next step after you have the car stripped? You will clean, then sand the SMC in preparation for the primer and repair any damage or cracks.
3. Is it wise to redo the factory bonded areas? Yes, the procedure is your call, but you can refill them for a factory look or glass them for a smooth look. If you use liquid stripper you must remove the filler and redo.
4. How many coats of primer,sealers,paint, and clear coat are needed? There are several methods to choose from for the first layer of paint, one is to lay down 2 coats of epoxy, fill the repairs you made, then start the blocking process with a 2k primer. The number of coats depends on the condition of the body and how straight you want it. A good quality base color will require 2 coats, and depending on which clear you choose, 2 coats is usually the minimum.
Are there any specific questions I should ask a body shop if I decide to go that route? You will want to use the same paint line for your undercoats as their topcoats, so that your work and their work is compatible with each other.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
From: West Point MS
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,360
Likes: 382
From: Plano TX
Bare 'glass. Safest is chemical stripper. You probably have to remove the factory primer with a scuff pad and thinner.
In my experience, plan to spend the next year or two doing body work. 
At least what I found was that my **** retentiveness kept increasing as I went along.
YES! If you don't, the seams will come out sooner or later.
Primer: As many as it takes. Primer, then block. If you go through, another coat of primer then block again. Repeat until you're happy with it. But if it takes 10 coats of primer you didn't do the body work right.
2. What is the next step after you have the car stripped?
At least what I found was that my **** retentiveness kept increasing as I went along.
3. Is it wise to redo the factory bonded areas?
4. How many coats of primer,sealers,paint, and clear coat are needed?
