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C5ZO6 top removal

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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 11:01 AM
  #1  
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Default C5ZO6 top removal

I need to remove the hardtop from my car so I can replace the trunk damage I did when I hit a tire wall. Can it be done so it can reused?
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Old Mar 23, 2009 | 07:43 PM
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Default 99 frc

I have the same question. I have a 99 FRC with rear damage and need to replace the rear compartment panel upper and lower sections.

New panels were too expensive so i bought a stripped 02 z06 shell including the top, front and rear glass and frame for $300 but dont like what I see concerning separating the panels. Some of the adhesive is rigid and the panels well bonded with a different softer adhesive in other areas. Upon beating on the donor car I stopped because I realized I would have to do the same thing to the good car and there has to be a better way. All the interior is out so I can see most of the adhesive contact points.

I have GM info on the panel replacement from the three volume repair manuals but it is vague and does not mention the fixed roof. The info suggests using a heat gun and prying the panels apart. The heat gun slightly softens the rigid adhesive and it does separate but what about all that heat on the painted surfaces and on the glass.

The diagrams only illustrate the coupe. Possibly a manual for a 00,01-04 will have it. Again my manuals are for a 99 and perhaps the info is missing due to the new model frc for 99.
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 11:02 AM
  #3  
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St. Jude Donor '08
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I have done this when I converted my coupe to a hardtop.

I purchased the back half of a FRC including the roof panel. It's a very tuff job to do.

The front windshield joint is the tuffest.

- Start by stripping off the rear fascia, rear fender and interior from the car.

- Remove the trunk lid and hardware.

- Remove the three rear bracket and the two front brackets (10mm) bolts.

- You're going to use a winshield removal kit to cut thru the glue on the "B" pillar halo.

- The front roof section is removed by pulling the molding and using a very sharp knife blade to cut through the poly urethane seal. It took me (3) days to do it.

- Once that is done, you should be able to move the roof secion some. Rock it back and forth to break the rear seal which is very hard epoxy. There is also a thin strip of polyurethane on the rear that is a pain to cut through. In an effort to save time and not damage the roof section, I cut off the upper tub to make it easier to access.
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 12:29 PM
  #4  
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Default Top removal

Thanks for the input ajg1915. I removed the top off the donor car and it is similar to your descripiion with a few exceptions which could help others.

It sounds like you separated the front first and the rear last, I separated the rear first and the front last. I need the rear tub or (rear compartment panel).

I used a heat gun on the rear tub area from the inside and it helped a lot heating up the metal frame and softening the adhesive. It looks like two different adhesives were used during assembly at the rear; one tar based and the other a solid grey epoxy. After softening the material, I cut it with braided stainless steel wire rope. But it wasn't easy. Gloves were needed and sticks to wrap the wire around. I also began separating the top frop the top bow frame using wood cedar shims increasing the number of shims as I went.

The front windshield area is harder as a different adhesive is used and appears silicone based. The heat was not as effective in this area but I got through it with the wire rope and shims as well while lifting the rear with 4x4 wood blocks between the top and the top bow. I think it could be a little easier with the windshield removed as it will allow for the correct angle of the wire rope.

Labor: two people one with the heat gun and one with the wire rope. I think it took around 8-10 hours.

Tub damage: some tub damage on horizontal part on one side but avoided on other side with correct angle of wire rope. Tar sealer will seal it.

Top damage: some damage at the front windshield area again from the wire rope cutting through the top. This could have been avoided if i went a little slower on the home stretch. Damage is repairable and is on the bottom side.


What did you use to assemble? What is a windshield removal tool? Where did you get the rear tub upper frame?


hope it helps out there as i couldn't find any info on removal.
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 01:18 PM
  #5  
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ajg1915
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Hi Magnacharger,

I got the upper tub from Gene @ GMpartshouse.com for a few hundred dollars and he's close by so I just drove over and picked it up.

I actually did the "B" pillar first and then the front windshield and then the rear.

Here's a couple pictures of the conversion to a hardtop.











Originally Posted by MAGNACHARGER
Thanks for the input ajg1915. I removed the top off the donor car and it is similar to your descripiion with a few exceptions which could help others.

It sounds like you separated the front first and the rear last, I separated the rear first and the front last. I need the rear tub or (rear compartment panel).

I used a heat gun on the rear tub area from the inside and it helped a lot heating up the metal frame and softening the adhesive. It looks like two different adhesives were used during assembly at the rear; one tar based and the other a solid grey epoxy. After softening the material, I cut it with braided stainless steel wire rope. But it wasn't easy. Gloves were needed and sticks to wrap the wire around. I also began separating the top frop the top bow frame using wood cedar shims increasing the number of shims as I went.

The front windshield area is harder as a different adhesive is used and appears silicone based. The heat was not as effective in this area but I got through it with the wire rope and shims as well while lifting the rear with 4x4 wood blocks between the top and the top bow. I think it could be a little easier with the windshield removed as it will allow for the correct angle of the wire rope.

Labor: two people one with the heat gun and one with the wire rope. I think it took around 8-10 hours.

Tub damage: some tub damage on horizontal part on one side but avoided on other side with correct angle of wire rope. Tar sealer will seal it.

Top damage: some damage at the front windshield area again from the wire rope cutting through the top. This could have been avoided if i went a little slower on the home stretch. Damage is repairable and is on the bottom side.


What did you use to assemble? What is a windshield removal tool? Where did you get the rear tub upper frame?


hope it helps out there as i couldn't find any info on removal.
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