Thanks. Yeah, that would be a good time to replace the weatherstripping. I am replacing the hatch stripping since it is seperating from the base. I'll probably do that after I paint. Probably remove the old hatch stripping, tape it up so I can have the hatch recess area painted. I got a Willcox piece for $50. I went ahead and got a new air dam piece since I had that removed getting it disassembled for paint.

I'm not gonna bother with the weatherstripping on the front. It doesn't leak. I just rubbed Krytox in the weatherstripping, and it looks like new apart from some of the small chunks that are missing. Besides the strip along the rear is the part that would matter with regards to painting the car since it touches paint. But that is the best piece, no rips or tears. The Targa top stripping has some chunks missing, and the worst would be the stripping along the windshield as it has some cracks. But that doesn't touch the paint, so I say it wouldn't matter if I did for some reason need to replace that after it gets painted.

I will probably end up getting someone to paint it, as I really don't want to fool with that part. Just the taking everything apart and putting it back on. But I'm keeping my options open. I've had some quotes of $5k to $7k to paint it. And some more reasonable $1.5k to $2.5k. I do plan on trying to strip it. I will probably try the razor blade first. I figure if I could get most of the old paint off, then I could let the painter block it as he would have to do that anyways.

 

By you doing the stripping (prep work) and someone else doing the painting you may have hit on a good compromise. FYI, by the time I was all through buying the primer, sealer, base, clear, all the reducers and hardeners, polishing compound and pads, as well as all the other necessary supplies I was out between $1000.00 and $1,500.00.

It is really important to know what each painter is really proposing to do for the money they are asking. There are just too many ways to cut corners which makes comparing apples to apple difficult. For instance how many coats of primer, base and clear would they shoot? Will you or they supply the paint etc.. If they supply it what brand and grade of paints are they going to use. I upgraded from the clear coat I was originally sold after their paint tech told me that a better grade would give me many more years of service. I only found out because I bothered to ask. Glad I did! Will they block sand using a guide coat or just shoot paint over the primer. I'd also ask to look at their work.

Be sure to strip off your mirrors etc. or you might well have your paint start peeling from those edges before too long.

Even if you don't paint it yourself those two videos will be a help in showing you what is involved and would be worth the money. You could probably handle the colorsanding and buffing on your own. If you plan on colorsanding you need to talk with the paint supplier to see how many extra coats of clear you need to spray on to allow you to do that. Some clear coats require more than others. We used 3 coats of a high grade PPG clear coat. If we had used a cheaper clear we would have had to use at least 4.

Education and careful planning will save you a lot of unnecessary grief and expense. Continue to do your homework.

 

Thanks. I was looking at going with SPI for the primer and clear, and House of Kolor for the black base. That would be around $500-$600 for the paint. It just depends if the painter can just shoot the Epoxy and then go to base/clear. Or if he wants to shoot 2k on top of the Epoxy to block, then I'd think about getting some 2k sealer before the base/clear. But I'd like to keep it at Epoxy-->Base-->Clear. As that would be cheaper for paint, and the least amount of different products you put on the car, the better.

Yeah, I plan on removing the side mirrors. I already have the door panels off. I've got all the bumper trim removed except the front nose as you have to take the nose off. and I'm pulling all the lights off. I'm also gonna pull the third brake light off. It has some sun spots on it I guess you call it. I'm also thinking about remove the outside door handles, but am wondering if I would be able to get in the car when the door shuts.

I think the hardest thing would be painting around the hatch. It would probably be best to just pull the hatch off, remove the weatherstripping, and tape it up. That way you get paint all in the groove around the hatch. But I don't know if the body shop would wannt to do that.

I'm not gonna go to those $5-$7 body shops. I'm not gonna pay that much for a production type paint job with orange peel. If I was gonna do that, then I'd just pay the $2.5 and go to the dealer.

I did back the car up into a brick wall several months ago that caused the paint to chip off. I didn't mention it to my insurance, as my deductible is $500, so I figured it would cost that much just to do the rear bumper. But who knows, maybe one of those shops would charge $2k on the rear bumper and I could file an insurance claim.

 

In regard to the hatch, if you are going to change the weatherstrip anyway get it out of the way before they paint. It is no problem at all for them to mask over that opening. We sealed off the whole passenger compartment.