paint stripping recommendations!!!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,248
Likes: 67
From: Warrington PA
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Unmodified
paint stripping recommendations!!!
will probably strip the Vert sometime this summer or early fall, what is the best and most effective way to strip the paint and not damage the fiberglass?
also what is the baking soda blasting technique about and it is good to use as opposed to a liquid stripper?
any info is appreciated...................thanks.... .Tom
also what is the baking soda blasting technique about and it is good to use as opposed to a liquid stripper?
any info is appreciated...................thanks.... .Tom
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 267
From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I just finished stripping mine, I media blasted loose parts,
and sanded stripped the main body, I finally got the razor blade techniqe down just as a was finihing the the job. The thing I like about the razor blade method you can do 10 minutes or 2 hours anytime you want, once you get the hang of it it works really good.
I chose not to do chemical or soda for fear of possible contamination,
showing its ugly head after the new paint job was done.. 69VETT
and sanded stripped the main body, I finally got the razor blade techniqe down just as a was finihing the the job. The thing I like about the razor blade method you can do 10 minutes or 2 hours anytime you want, once you get the hang of it it works really good.
I chose not to do chemical or soda for fear of possible contamination,
showing its ugly head after the new paint job was done.. 69VETT
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,248
Likes: 67
From: Warrington PA
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Unmodified
I just finished stripping mine, I media blasted loose parts,
and sanded stripped the main body, I finally got the razor blade techniqe down just as a was finihing the the job. The thing I like about the razor blade method you can do 10 minutes or 2 hours anytime you want, once you get the hang of it it works really good.
I chose not to do chemical or soda for fear of possible contamination,
showing its ugly head after the new paint job was done.. 69VETT
and sanded stripped the main body, I finally got the razor blade techniqe down just as a was finihing the the job. The thing I like about the razor blade method you can do 10 minutes or 2 hours anytime you want, once you get the hang of it it works really good.
I chose not to do chemical or soda for fear of possible contamination,
showing its ugly head after the new paint job was done.. 69VETT
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 267
From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
chemical strippers and soda can react much later, like after your new paint is appled !
if they are not completely removed or neturlized, especially with a porus surface like fiberglass.
The razor blade method is simply using razor blades to scrape off the old paint,
It sounds slow and difficult, but once you learn/feel how to do it it is pretty easy.
The best part is you choose when to do the work with razor blades and is is not nearly as messy and dusty as other methods.
if they are not completely removed or neturlized, especially with a porus surface like fiberglass.
The razor blade method is simply using razor blades to scrape off the old paint,
It sounds slow and difficult, but once you learn/feel how to do it it is pretty easy.
The best part is you choose when to do the work with razor blades and is is not nearly as messy and dusty as other methods.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 143
Likes: 1
From: Beaumont TX
I, like many others on this forum have used Citristrip with great success. On other threads I have outlined at length the many reasons why I prefer this over another stripper I tried.
Do a search on Citristrip (or as I occasionally spelled it Citri-Strip) to see why and how we used it.
You will find there is no great way to get the paint off of your car. Any method has is pros and cons and all are time consuming and messy.
I just finished my job so I cannot 100% guarantee you that the paint won't fall off of my car, but based on others experience I am not worrying about that. Trust me if that should happen I will let everyone know. I just feel it is the safest stripper out there for you and your fiberglass. The only place I would not recommend it is on the urethane bumpers. It tends to soak in too much. My recommendation for them would be to just replace them.
Do a search on Citristrip (or as I occasionally spelled it Citri-Strip) to see why and how we used it.
You will find there is no great way to get the paint off of your car. Any method has is pros and cons and all are time consuming and messy.
I just finished my job so I cannot 100% guarantee you that the paint won't fall off of my car, but based on others experience I am not worrying about that. Trust me if that should happen I will let everyone know. I just feel it is the safest stripper out there for you and your fiberglass. The only place I would not recommend it is on the urethane bumpers. It tends to soak in too much. My recommendation for them would be to just replace them.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
I, like many others on this forum have used Citristrip with great success. On other threads I have outlined at length the many reasons why I prefer this over another stripper I tried.
Do a search on Citristrip (or as I occasionally spelled it Citri-Strip) to see why and how we used it.
You will find there is no great way to get the paint off of your car. Any method has is pros and cons and all are time consuming and messy.
I just finished my job so I cannot 100% guarantee you that the paint won't fall off of my car, but based on others experience I am not worrying about that. Trust me if that should happen I will let everyone know. I just feel it is the safest stripper out there for you and your fiberglass. The only place I would not recommend it is on the urethane bumpers. It tends to soak in too much. My recommendation for them would be to just replace them.
Do a search on Citristrip (or as I occasionally spelled it Citri-Strip) to see why and how we used it.
You will find there is no great way to get the paint off of your car. Any method has is pros and cons and all are time consuming and messy.
I just finished my job so I cannot 100% guarantee you that the paint won't fall off of my car, but based on others experience I am not worrying about that. Trust me if that should happen I will let everyone know. I just feel it is the safest stripper out there for you and your fiberglass. The only place I would not recommend it is on the urethane bumpers. It tends to soak in too much. My recommendation for them would be to just replace them.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,993
Likes: 9
From: Gig Harbor WA
Razor blade!! Get single edge and a holder. Find a place to get under the paint (small rock chip for instance) and pretend you are peeling an apple. Some guys will slightly round off the blade corners to keep from nicking the fiberglass. I did not do this, just hold the blade flat and at about a 30-45 degree angle to the surface and push. Did my ENTIRE 72 coupe in a day.
If your car has been repainted, the razor blade works great. It sometimes doesnt work as well on original paint.
Here are a couple of posts I did on it a couple of years ago. Unfortunately I deleted the pictures of me ACTUALLY using the razor blade. But maybe these will help...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-pictures.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...e-process.html
If your car has been repainted, the razor blade works great. It sometimes doesnt work as well on original paint.
Here are a couple of posts I did on it a couple of years ago. Unfortunately I deleted the pictures of me ACTUALLY using the razor blade. But maybe these will help...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-pictures.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...e-process.html
Last edited by MakoShark72; Apr 21, 2009 at 09:52 PM.
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Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
Razor blade!! Get single edge and a holder. Find a place to get under the paint (small rock chip for instance) and pretend you are peeling an apple. Some guys will slightly round off the blade corners to keep from nicking the fiberglass. I did not do this, just hold the blade flat and at about a 30-45 degree angle to the surface and push. Did my ENTIRE 72 coupe in a day.
If your car has been repainted, the razor blade works great. It sometimes doesnt work as well on original paint.
Here are a couple of posts I did on it a couple of years ago. Unfortunately I deleted the pictures of me ACTUALLY using the razor blade. But maybe these will help...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-pictures.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...e-process.html
If your car has been repainted, the razor blade works great. It sometimes doesnt work as well on original paint.
Here are a couple of posts I did on it a couple of years ago. Unfortunately I deleted the pictures of me ACTUALLY using the razor blade. But maybe these will help...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-pictures.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...e-process.html
Do you have a pic of the type of razor blades and handle you are using? There are alot of different ones out there.
I can see this being done on a flat surface. But how do you cut the paint with the razor blade on the curved surfaces, like the hood? I'd be afraid of cutting into the hood while stripping the paint on a curve.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,993
Likes: 9
From: Gig Harbor WA
It would be nice if you could repost the pics of you stripping the car.
Do you have a pic of the type of razor blades and handle you are using? There are alot of different ones out there.
I can see this being done on a flat surface. But how do you cut the paint with the razor blade on the curved surfaces, like the hood? I'd be afraid of cutting into the hood while stripping the paint on a curve.
Do you have a pic of the type of razor blades and handle you are using? There are alot of different ones out there.
I can see this being done on a flat surface. But how do you cut the paint with the razor blade on the curved surfaces, like the hood? I'd be afraid of cutting into the hood while stripping the paint on a curve.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
Unfortunately I no longer have the pictures, I've looked. They are simple common single edge razor blades, with any holder. The blade simply slides into the holder. As long as the blade "rides" flat on the surface, you can just about follow any curve. You really arent "cutting" the paint, once the blade is under the paint you are peeling it off. You have to experiment with downward pressure on the blade. Picture peeling an apple, its the same thing. Once you try it, it pretty much makes common sense...easier than trying to describe it. I'll look again for the photos...
And how are they rounding the corners of the blade off? I think I'd want to do that to help prevent nicking the SMC.
I think it will be easy to do my Vette, cause I had bumped the rear bumper and some of the paint chipped off. I've been able to peel some of the paint off with my finger nail where it had chipped at. So, obviously the PO didn't use paint that would stick well to the bumpers. Also, there is a slight crack in the paint at the corner of one of the hatches where the car had been lifted wrong the PO told me. So I think this will be something I can do. The whole car needs stripped has it has lots of rock chips and the top of my driver door has tons of crows feet.
I'm assuming from your pics that you stop pulling the paint off before you get to an edge?
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,993
Likes: 9
From: Gig Harbor WA
Oh, ok. Not cutting the paint like you are shaving. Just getting it under the paint, then pulling the paint off. In those links posted above, I dont' see how they were able to skin those large sections. I figured you would be pulling the paint off in strips.
And how are they rounding the corners of the blade off? I think I'd want to do that to help prevent nicking the SMC.
I think it will be easy to do my Vette, cause I had bumped the rear bumper and some of the paint chipped off. I've been able to peel some of the paint off with my finger nail where it had chipped at. So, obviously the PO didn't use paint that would stick well to the bumpers. Also, there is a slight crack in the paint at the corner of one of the hatches where the car had been lifted wrong the PO told me. So I think this will be something I can do. The whole car needs stripped has it has lots of rock chips and the top of my driver door has tons of crows feet.
I'm assuming from your pics that you stop pulling the paint off before you get to an edge?
And how are they rounding the corners of the blade off? I think I'd want to do that to help prevent nicking the SMC.
I think it will be easy to do my Vette, cause I had bumped the rear bumper and some of the paint chipped off. I've been able to peel some of the paint off with my finger nail where it had chipped at. So, obviously the PO didn't use paint that would stick well to the bumpers. Also, there is a slight crack in the paint at the corner of one of the hatches where the car had been lifted wrong the PO told me. So I think this will be something I can do. The whole car needs stripped has it has lots of rock chips and the top of my driver door has tons of crows feet.
I'm assuming from your pics that you stop pulling the paint off before you get to an edge?
Use a small file or sharpening stone (or the concrete floor of your garage) to simply knock off (round off) the two corners of the razor blade.
As far as the edges, I used the razor blade right up to the edges, no problem.
Everybody freaks out about nicks. Thats why they make body putty. Your car will have nicks and scratches already that you will have to fill. Just being careful with the razor blade will minimize additional nicks. Some will be inevitable.
Hope this helps.. sorry I dont have the pictures anymore.
Last edited by MakoShark72; Apr 22, 2009 at 10:43 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 87
From: bluff dale tx
when using the razor blade sometimes you must peel just 1/2 in strips. once you get the hang of it you can strip a car quickly with out the mess of chemstrip. it is important not to introduce any solvents not in your paint system. don't use lacquer thinner on it. if you must use a solvent use urethane reducer. i use only soap and water or water base w&g remover. let it dry good and your ready to go.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 143
Likes: 1
From: Beaumont TX
Josh:
When I first heard about the concept of replacing the bumpers my response would have been the same as yours. That's a lot of $ for me too. However, we heard of one local painter who will not even paint a Vette unless the customer agrees to new bumpers. After trying a few different methods of stripping and seeing how much work it truly is to get them down to bare plastic the logic isn't so strange. What someone would have to pay him for his time to strip them of paint and primer with all their curves might come out to just about the cost of a new bumper.
Another factor to consider is the remaining life left in a bumper. A painter might not be willing to guarantee his work on an old bumper. The bumpers on my '80 model were now 29 years old but weren't in obviously bad shape. However, I have see posts from others that said their rubber bumpers from the later 70's had deteriorated badly. I'm hoping there is still a lot of life left in my original rear bumper. Given the cost of a paint job, putting it on fresh rubber is a compelling argument both from a labor and reliability standpoint.
All I know is what I have tried and what eventually worked for me. However, if someone has an easier solution for stripping bumpers I am never too proud to listen and learn.
When I first heard about the concept of replacing the bumpers my response would have been the same as yours. That's a lot of $ for me too. However, we heard of one local painter who will not even paint a Vette unless the customer agrees to new bumpers. After trying a few different methods of stripping and seeing how much work it truly is to get them down to bare plastic the logic isn't so strange. What someone would have to pay him for his time to strip them of paint and primer with all their curves might come out to just about the cost of a new bumper.
Another factor to consider is the remaining life left in a bumper. A painter might not be willing to guarantee his work on an old bumper. The bumpers on my '80 model were now 29 years old but weren't in obviously bad shape. However, I have see posts from others that said their rubber bumpers from the later 70's had deteriorated badly. I'm hoping there is still a lot of life left in my original rear bumper. Given the cost of a paint job, putting it on fresh rubber is a compelling argument both from a labor and reliability standpoint.
All I know is what I have tried and what eventually worked for me. However, if someone has an easier solution for stripping bumpers I am never too proud to listen and learn.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
Josh:
When I first heard about the concept of replacing the bumpers my response would have been the same as yours. That's a lot of $ for me too. However, we heard of one local painter who will not even paint a Vette unless the customer agrees to new bumpers. After trying a few different methods of stripping and seeing how much work it truly is to get them down to bare plastic the logic isn't so strange. What someone would have to pay him for his time to strip them of paint and primer with all their curves might come out to just about the cost of a new bumper.
Another factor to consider is the remaining life left in a bumper. A painter might not be willing to guarantee his work on an old bumper. The bumpers on my '80 model were now 29 years old but weren't in obviously bad shape. However, I have see posts from others that said their rubber bumpers from the later 70's had deteriorated badly. I'm hoping there is still a lot of life left in my original rear bumper. Given the cost of a paint job, putting it on fresh rubber is a compelling argument both from a labor and reliability standpoint.
All I know is what I have tried and what eventually worked for me. However, if someone has an easier solution for stripping bumpers I am never too proud to listen and learn.
When I first heard about the concept of replacing the bumpers my response would have been the same as yours. That's a lot of $ for me too. However, we heard of one local painter who will not even paint a Vette unless the customer agrees to new bumpers. After trying a few different methods of stripping and seeing how much work it truly is to get them down to bare plastic the logic isn't so strange. What someone would have to pay him for his time to strip them of paint and primer with all their curves might come out to just about the cost of a new bumper.
Another factor to consider is the remaining life left in a bumper. A painter might not be willing to guarantee his work on an old bumper. The bumpers on my '80 model were now 29 years old but weren't in obviously bad shape. However, I have see posts from others that said their rubber bumpers from the later 70's had deteriorated badly. I'm hoping there is still a lot of life left in my original rear bumper. Given the cost of a paint job, putting it on fresh rubber is a compelling argument both from a labor and reliability standpoint.
All I know is what I have tried and what eventually worked for me. However, if someone has an easier solution for stripping bumpers I am never too proud to listen and learn.
I had bumped the rear bumper a few months back causing the paint to crack and chip. It didn't damage the bumper. I've been able to chip off alot of paint with my finger. So, I don't think I'll have a problem stripping the bumpers. The PO had it painted, and whatever he used. It didn't stick well to the bumper since I'm able to take the paint off so easily. The front bumper has some spider cracks in it, which tells me the paint isn't sticking good to the bumper. The paint is flexible has I've bent some of the chips I've pulled off over 90 degrees.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 143
Likes: 1
From: Beaumont TX
It sounds like you may have an easier time of it than I did as yours is an '89 which has a lot less curves in its bumper than my '80. Also if your paint is chipping off that could also make a big difference in your favor. Hopefully you will not have to strip it all the way down to the rubber like I did.
The "tech guy" at the automotive paint store we dealt with recommended the Bulldog Adhesion Promoter be applied before the primer on the bare rubber. He swears by it. The adhesion promoter is supposed to still be wet when you spray primer. He also had us add a "flexiblizer to the catalyzed coats (the primer & clear coat) to make the finish more flexible and chip-resistant.
Based on my limited experience, IF you can find a new primer that will adhere to your old primer, I would suggest trying a can of stripper for urethane bumpers. It made quick work of lifting the paint down to the primer but it stopped there. I guess you would have to ask your paint supplier to know for sure.
Sorry I can't remember what brand we used. It may have been Bulldog but I'm not sure. We got it at a Sherwin Williams automotive paint store. Just do the bumper a section at a time and try to avoid nicking the soft urethane while you scrape it off.
The "tech guy" at the automotive paint store we dealt with recommended the Bulldog Adhesion Promoter be applied before the primer on the bare rubber. He swears by it. The adhesion promoter is supposed to still be wet when you spray primer. He also had us add a "flexiblizer to the catalyzed coats (the primer & clear coat) to make the finish more flexible and chip-resistant.
Based on my limited experience, IF you can find a new primer that will adhere to your old primer, I would suggest trying a can of stripper for urethane bumpers. It made quick work of lifting the paint down to the primer but it stopped there. I guess you would have to ask your paint supplier to know for sure.
Sorry I can't remember what brand we used. It may have been Bulldog but I'm not sure. We got it at a Sherwin Williams automotive paint store. Just do the bumper a section at a time and try to avoid nicking the soft urethane while you scrape it off.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
It sounds like you may have an easier time of it than I did as yours is an '89 which has a lot less curves in its bumper than my '80. Also if your paint is chipping off that could also make a big difference in your favor. Hopefully you will not have to strip it all the way down to the rubber like I did.
The "tech guy" at the automotive paint store we dealt with recommended the Bulldog Adhesion Promoter be applied before the primer on the bare rubber. He swears by it. The adhesion promoter is supposed to still be wet when you spray primer. He also had us add a "flexiblizer to the catalyzed coats (the primer & clear coat) to make the finish more flexible and chip-resistant.
Based on my limited experience, IF you can find a new primer that will adhere to your old primer, I would suggest trying a can of stripper for urethane bumpers. It made quick work of lifting the paint down to the primer but it stopped there. I guess you would have to ask your paint supplier to know for sure.
Sorry I can't remember what brand we used. It may have been Bulldog but I'm not sure. We got it at a Sherwin Williams automotive paint store. Just do the bumper a section at a time and try to avoid nicking the soft urethane while you scrape it off.
The "tech guy" at the automotive paint store we dealt with recommended the Bulldog Adhesion Promoter be applied before the primer on the bare rubber. He swears by it. The adhesion promoter is supposed to still be wet when you spray primer. He also had us add a "flexiblizer to the catalyzed coats (the primer & clear coat) to make the finish more flexible and chip-resistant.
Based on my limited experience, IF you can find a new primer that will adhere to your old primer, I would suggest trying a can of stripper for urethane bumpers. It made quick work of lifting the paint down to the primer but it stopped there. I guess you would have to ask your paint supplier to know for sure.
Sorry I can't remember what brand we used. It may have been Bulldog but I'm not sure. We got it at a Sherwin Williams automotive paint store. Just do the bumper a section at a time and try to avoid nicking the soft urethane while you scrape it off.
Here is their forum:
http://spi.forumup.org/index.php?mforum=spi
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 143
Likes: 1
From: Beaumont TX
So, I guess the obvious question is will it stick to existing primer on the bumper? If it will that would save you a lot of work. On mine it was a 2 step process. First, strip the paint, then strip the primer.
The on both the bumper and fiberglass if they have a product that will stick to the old primer (where you don't have to strip it completely as I did because of poor condition) you will be way ahead.
The on both the bumper and fiberglass if they have a product that will stick to the old primer (where you don't have to strip it completely as I did because of poor condition) you will be way ahead.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
So, I guess the obvious question is will it stick to existing primer on the bumper? If it will that would save you a lot of work. On mine it was a 2 step process. First, strip the paint, then strip the primer.
The on both the bumper and fiberglass if they have a product that will stick to the old primer (where you don't have to strip it completely as I did because of poor condition) you will be way ahead.
The on both the bumper and fiberglass if they have a product that will stick to the old primer (where you don't have to strip it completely as I did because of poor condition) you will be way ahead.
I talked with the SPI owner, Barry on his forum, and he has painted Corvettes like mine before. He told me I wouldn't need an adhesive promotor, just his Epoxy. I didn't ask about spraying the Epoxy on the factory sealer. So, I may need to check back with him on that. I was just planning on taking it down to the factory sealer, as I was told there is no reason to take that off as it is stuck on there good.
The only other problem would be getting someone to paint it with SPI. The shops I talked to all use different stuff to paint Vettes. I know one shop told me about he sprays the whole car down with an adhesive promotor.
Though, I may just take a part time shop class in auto body at the tech school. Learn how to paint on someone elses car. Bring my car in and paint it myself in their paint booth.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 143
Likes: 1
From: Beaumont TX
While you could go to tech school I'd suggest first checking out this guy's videos http://www.paintucation.com/. We got them from the Eastwood Co. http://www.eastwoodco.com/. We got the "Paint Your Own Car" and the "Colorsanding and Buffing" videos.
They were VERY informative and showed us that with a little local guidance from our paint store we could actually pull it off and we did. They are worth every cent. It was just terribly time consuming but then we disassembled everything we should have and restored the interior as well including weatherstripping.
They were VERY informative and showed us that with a little local guidance from our paint store we could actually pull it off and we did. They are worth every cent. It was just terribly time consuming but then we disassembled everything we should have and restored the interior as well including weatherstripping.