i am doing a complete restoration on a 68' coupe, i just recently test fit the door to the body, and found that i have too much gap on BOTH front and rear of door.... i need to add about 1/4" of glass to make the gaps correct. my question is where/how to do this. has anyone had to do something similar? i'm guessing that it would probably be best to add some fiberglass to the leading edge (forward) of the door. or would it be better to add it to the body? thanks, rick

 

Very common problem, the C3 often had big door gaps from the factory. Sometimes you can improve it with the body-to-frame shims, by adding more shims to the #4 mounts tilting the rear of the body up.

You can add fiberglass to the body or the door, your choice. The technique is to maximize your contact area. The wider the contact patch, the stronger it will be. Here are some pictures from when I added to the front of my '71 door.

 

I professionally speaking...prefer to add to the BODY. Due to the steel innner structure of the door.... the amount of fiberglass that is left to extend past it is minor. Usually about 3/16". So when I have problems with teh gaps I build up on the fenders and quarter panels...wherever needed. This is so that there is no possibility of the extended piece of fiberglass breaking off in the future if something were to get caught on it

Zwede did a great job in the photo's that were posted...and I am not saying that it will work...because the proof is shown.

I just choose to do it a different way so when the inner part of the door is looked at...you do not see the extension...my way is more undectable. Thats all. I have customers that are quite "picky"...and I do not blame them...and it isn't that hard for me to do it my way. This is also assumiong that your outer skin has not been sanded back to the steel inner structure.

If you want to do it my way....call me and I will describe how I do it.
"DUB" (704) 394-5150 EST 8:30-5:00 M-F

 

thanks to both of you for your responses! i suspect either way would work just fine........DUB, i will try to give you a call next week, and thanks a bunch for the offer of assistance. i promise not to bug you very long! LOL....rick

 

Rick,
You won't be "bugging" me. Many forum members call me for assistance, information, "tricks" and suggestions. Feel free....whenever you are ready.
Post photo's if you can.
"DUB"

 

Shiming the body would be my first thing to try. Adding to the body or the door will work just fine on the front edge but adding to the body at the rear will probaly just look wrong. You have a very small lip there now, just look at it where you need to add and see what I mean.

 

The factory was very sloppy in the area you mention (rear part of jamb on the body). They bonded the quarter on long, cut it to (more or less) match the door and then just smeared bonding adhesive on the jam which creates the lip you talk about. When we did mine we spent some time and blended that area. I think it came out real nice.

 

i have always added to the forward edge of the door or the fender.

 

ok, here are a couple of pics of the area that i am talking about.........







i'll try to call you soon DUB! thanks again, rick

 

razman,
I see your photo's and there is NO problem in helping you fix this. I deal with much worse gaps than this from time to time...so do not worry.

WE will get it right...the first time.

We will not be adding to your door(s)...but rather to the fenders and quarters....despite what others may think. The end result will not be able to be detected. And 90% of this work will be done with the door on and correctly adjusted.

This is also assuming...because there were no pictures of it...that the fiberglass outer door skin that slightly extends past the steel inner structure at the fender and quarter area is still intact...and has not been sanded down. You can fill me in on that when you call.

I will fill you in on some other "tricks", improvements, and or possible needed modifications when you call.

Looks like it will go fast....and will look good. You are doing it RIGHT. Glad to see it.

"DUB"

 

thanks Dub!! i'll try to call you tomorrow or weds. i know my pics aren't great, but if you need more detailed pics of something, i'm sure i can provide them.....talk to you soon, and thanks again, rick

 

dub, i enjoyed chattin with you today, thanks again for taking the time! you obviously seem to know your stuff. i will adjust the doors and check the things we talked about today, and may call you one more time for final instructions on taking care of the excessive door gaps. btw. i picked up some of the adhesive/filler that we talked about! rick

 

Rick,
No problem..and glad that I could be of service to you. Call me whenever you need to know anything about this and any other issue.

"DUB"

 

hey dub! (or anyone else who knows) i know that the 68' door hinges were a bit different than 69-82. but my question is this: do you know if they are just cosmetically different, or would later hinges present problems with hanging the doors on a 68? my car is a 68 coupe, and i bought a set of hinges used from a later car.....i am having problems getting these doors to hang right. what are the differences in the 68 door hinges, and do later hinges make it difficult to hang doors? thanks, rick

 

Rick, I am not at work today, (Saturady)...so I do not have my GM parts book so I can look up this inforamtion. I know that '68 was s "funny" year with many parts..but NEVER ran into a door hinge problem. I have replaced many hinges over the years...but do not recall having any problem with any year.

What is the problem in you getting your doors to be adjusted/aligned? Are you running out of "slot" to get the door to move forward and back and/or up/down?

In cases like yours...when panels have been re-installed...and it is questionable if they were properly bonded in place. And not knowing if the damage to the car...which may have casued these panels to be replaced was properly repaired. Do not feel affraid to slightly open up these slots where your bolts secure the hinge to the post or door. Just make sure that you do not widen the slot...just lengthen it...so the spinning washer on you bolt(s) will secure it like it is designed to do. From your pictures...it should not take much...which is really no big deal...because you are not weakening anything...just makinig it possible to align/adjust the door. If it that far off....and you feel that the amount of slot is going to cause a problem in the future...then the possibility of seperating the panel(s) in question and rebondinig them correctly may be the next step. From your photo's ...it does not appear that way. But check to see if the upper top hood surround /fender molding...when positioned...works with the doors top/ front edge.
"DUB"

 

dub.....the doors actually fit the opening pretty well, just a little fat on the gaps which i will take care of. last night while trying to do the final fit on the RH door (after getting shims tweeked to my liking) i tightened up the bolts in the top hinge, closed the door and it fit really nice. BUT, when i tightened a couple of the bolts in the lower hinge, it seemed to almost twist the door. in other words the lower portion of the leading edge of the door went in a bit, and the lower edge of the trailing edge of the door came out!!! almost as if one of the hinges is bent and does not align with the other hinge????? am i missing something here, or do i possibly have a bad pair of hinges? (i bought these hinges used, and have never hung these doors before with these hinges) thanks, rick

 

Rick, You could have a tweaked hinge...or if the front edge of the door where the lower hinge is located is IN....thus needing another shim to get it flush...you can try that. If that does not correct it...or if it is flush...at where the hinge is located...but the leading edge of the door BELOW the hinge begins to go in....you may have to do some filling to get that correct...if it appears that the front end has been worked on in the past.you may have a problem in the door itself...where the hinge bolts. Not knowing if the hinges are OK...you might be fighting an UPHILL battle. But it is worth trying to adjust things to get it close so you can do your modifications to the quarters and fenders to get the doors to fit perfectly. I have had doors that were tweaked...due to being forced open to far and excessive pressure put a twist in the door. Not often...but I have encountered it.

Call me if you need to talk to me.(Monday)
"DUB"

 

hey dub, i sent you a private message, if you get a minute, take a look. Just a couple more questions about fixing the gaps in my doors. thanks, rick

 

ok, i have finished "closing the gaps" on the RH door. i am including a couple of pics. one BEFORE pic and two AFTER pics. i wish i had better BEFORE pics, especially of the front gap (as it was the worst)

anyway, i want to thank "Dub" (grandmastercorvette) for his assistance in this project. he was willing to take the time to walk me thru this, and share some of his "secrets and tips" thanks a bunch Dub! i really appreciate you taking the time to help me, and your method worked awesome!!! i'm really getting comfortable with it now, and the LH door is coming right along! rick

RH door gap BEFORE

AFTER

AFTER

 

Rick,
i would have to say that you have it down. The gaps look GREAT!!!!! You just gotta love it when a plan comes together....and some awesome filler never hurts also.

GREAT JOB!!!!!
"DUB"