Clearcoat reduction.
01-03-2010, 06:21 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Clearcoat reduction.
I read in a thread a week or so back that briefly mentioned Reducing Clearcoat. Most likely a high solid's Clear. I do believe it was DUB that mentioned that he reduce's his Clear's.
It got my couriosity up,and since I'm alway's open to new tricks of the Trade........
How much can you safely reduce Clearcoat(10%)?
What is the advantage of reducing your Clearcoat when it's being sprayed on Tri-Coat/Candies?
Marty.
It got my couriosity up,and since I'm alway's open to new tricks of the Trade........
How much can you safely reduce Clearcoat(10%)?
What is the advantage of reducing your Clearcoat when it's being sprayed on Tri-Coat/Candies?
Marty.
01-03-2010, 09:15 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
I recommend reading and following the manufacturer's recommendations printed on the label. These will generally also include what reducer (if any) to use in what temperature range. Unless you happen to use the same primer, basecoat and clear DUB is, and follow his techniques exactly,that info probably won't apply. This is not a "down on you" answer, but second guessing the paint manufacturer's chemists can lead to all manner of unintended results. If your brand "XYZ" urethane clear states not to reduce... there's probably a good reason not to.
01-04-2010, 06:11 PM
#3
Race Director
Hello orourke,
Markids77 is correct.
Quick re-cap on an issue where I over reduced/thinned my clear coat.
I was custoim painting some Harley gas tanks and fenders and was using a candy concentrate. So this concentrate could be added to clear and create the candy that could be applied. ( Just in case you didn't know this).
The paint system I am using has a clear that is high in solids and I knew that there would be NO WAY that I could mix the concentrate in the PROPERLY mixed clear and apply it. This is due to the coats would be so thick and I would end up with EXCESSIVE mils of clear EVEN before I got to my correct color/shade I wanted to achieve with the candy.
So I talked with my area rep when we were both at a certification class and he and I basically came up with a reduction that made the clear as thin as lacquer clear.
When I got back home...I mixed it like we discussed and shot it and it came out PERFECT...and the following coats of clear were reduced the SAME as the candy so that I would not run into the chance of trapping solvents ( due to the correctly mixed clear may "skin over") and cause solvent "popping". Which any painter can tell you ....is a NIGHTMARE you do not want to experience...Which I have in the past and know tricks to fixing this problem also.
I shot this candy "mix" as like I used to do when I shot lacquer. Many, many light wet coats and keeping it even so the finish would not become "blotchy".
Even with the tape lines from the designing pearl and graphics...when it was done the gas tanks and fenders looked like I had dipped them in "baby oil". ABSOLUTELY NO ORANGE PEEL.
BUT one thing you have to understand...when I was talking to my rep about this problem...because I wanted to use the clear that I knew well...and didn't want to use something else. The conversation about the reduction was "off the record" and NO WARRANTY could be given because the mix was not of that of how it was designed/ formulated. I took the chance and it has paid off well for me over the years when I need to shoot candies and such.
But also remember...I tried it on something smalll...so that if it reacted wierd...I could easily strip everythinig back down and not cost me to much time and money for the "test".
IF you choose to do this...try it on something that doesn't matter so much...so if it fails....you are not out much but that of the cost of the products and your time.
Over the years I have "pushed" products to the MAX...just to see what I could get away with. Because MANY products that require components to be mixed...often times the mix ratio is the "middle ground". SO a little bit more of one component won't hurt or a little less of another won't hurt...due to the chemists figure this "plus/minus" factor...because they know that we are human and SOME people can't even do a 1:1 mix correctly....and when they are done...have more of one component than the other ....EVENTHOUGH they were to be mixed 1:1
CURRENTLY...the clear that I use NOW...DOESN NOT get thinned/reduced. I use my previous clear if I am doing a candy job so I can reduce it in the way I know it works for me.
"DUB"
Markids77 is correct.
Quick re-cap on an issue where I over reduced/thinned my clear coat.
I was custoim painting some Harley gas tanks and fenders and was using a candy concentrate. So this concentrate could be added to clear and create the candy that could be applied. ( Just in case you didn't know this).
The paint system I am using has a clear that is high in solids and I knew that there would be NO WAY that I could mix the concentrate in the PROPERLY mixed clear and apply it. This is due to the coats would be so thick and I would end up with EXCESSIVE mils of clear EVEN before I got to my correct color/shade I wanted to achieve with the candy.
So I talked with my area rep when we were both at a certification class and he and I basically came up with a reduction that made the clear as thin as lacquer clear.
When I got back home...I mixed it like we discussed and shot it and it came out PERFECT...and the following coats of clear were reduced the SAME as the candy so that I would not run into the chance of trapping solvents ( due to the correctly mixed clear may "skin over") and cause solvent "popping". Which any painter can tell you ....is a NIGHTMARE you do not want to experience...Which I have in the past and know tricks to fixing this problem also.
I shot this candy "mix" as like I used to do when I shot lacquer. Many, many light wet coats and keeping it even so the finish would not become "blotchy".
Even with the tape lines from the designing pearl and graphics...when it was done the gas tanks and fenders looked like I had dipped them in "baby oil". ABSOLUTELY NO ORANGE PEEL.
BUT one thing you have to understand...when I was talking to my rep about this problem...because I wanted to use the clear that I knew well...and didn't want to use something else. The conversation about the reduction was "off the record" and NO WARRANTY could be given because the mix was not of that of how it was designed/ formulated. I took the chance and it has paid off well for me over the years when I need to shoot candies and such.
But also remember...I tried it on something smalll...so that if it reacted wierd...I could easily strip everythinig back down and not cost me to much time and money for the "test".
IF you choose to do this...try it on something that doesn't matter so much...so if it fails....you are not out much but that of the cost of the products and your time.
Over the years I have "pushed" products to the MAX...just to see what I could get away with. Because MANY products that require components to be mixed...often times the mix ratio is the "middle ground". SO a little bit more of one component won't hurt or a little less of another won't hurt...due to the chemists figure this "plus/minus" factor...because they know that we are human and SOME people can't even do a 1:1 mix correctly....and when they are done...have more of one component than the other ....EVENTHOUGH they were to be mixed 1:1
CURRENTLY...the clear that I use NOW...DOESN NOT get thinned/reduced. I use my previous clear if I am doing a candy job so I can reduce it in the way I know it works for me.
"DUB"
Last edited by DUB; 01-04-2010 at 06:14 PM.
01-04-2010, 10:45 PM
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
I agree with both of you about following the mixing instructions. I like to go by the Book myself. Be proactive.
I was just wondering if I might have been missing something. You cleared it up just fine.
Thank you,
Marty.
I was just wondering if I might have been missing something. You cleared it up just fine.
Thank you,
Marty.
