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Wide Body Conversion paint cost?

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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 07:56 PM
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Default Wide Body Conversion paint cost?

What would be a reasonable amount to pay for painting 2 fenders, 2 quarter panels and the front bumper cover black? These will be new GM parts with no modification or repair work needed on the panels.
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 09:27 PM
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After replacing the nose pieces on the car, and bonding the rear quarters on then making the edges look nice again may I suggest a complete respray? "Blacks" are not all created equal, there are blue bases, red bases,etc... and black is quite prone to fade/color shift as it ages. By the time a shop panel painted and blended into the hood, doors, deck and other adjoining panels the painter will likely suggest you go all the way anyway. Your finished car will look better, and the cost will likely be near the same.
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by markids77
After replacing the nose pieces on the car, and bonding the rear quarters on then making the edges look nice again may I suggest a complete respray? "Blacks" are not all created equal, there are blue bases, red bases,etc... and black is quite prone to fade/color shift as it ages. By the time a shop panel painted and blended into the hood, doors, deck and other adjoining panels the painter will likely suggest you go all the way anyway. Your finished car will look better, and the cost will likely be near the same.

The project car is an '07 coupe with about 5K miles. The car is seldome in the sun and is always expertly detailed in show condition. No paint repair work has ever been done. I understand the panel blending but the U41 black should be pretty standard I would think when painting the bolt-on panels, not bonded. as other generations I do have a concern about matching the orange peel or just color-sanding the whole car and polishing.

Are you recommending the whole car should be sprayed?
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 10:28 PM
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We have just hit a common snag encountered when discussing things from afar. I was unaware that all your panels are a bolt on affair... I am aware that current front fenders are a bolt on affair but my C3 would require extensive fiberglass work to modify the rear quarter panels. I am also unable to see your car "live and in person" to determine what might be the best way to achieve a satisfactory result for you. I can only offer my opinion, which is that with all the new parts you're about to add, I would seriously consider a total respray as perhaps the most certain way to get a uniform, smooth and glossy result. Find a shop owner who will have this same discussion with you, and one who can show you a portfolio of similar projects. Once you find someone who you can speak plainly to, get feedback from previous customers. If you're comfortable with the guys there, follow their painter's recommendation.
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 06:44 PM
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My .02 cents...
I would do an entire re-spray. markids77 is correct about the black.. There are many variants on thius color becasue GM uses in in other models and there is NO way that the color is perfect from one assembly plant to another. Yep!!!! GM ( and other manufacturers) even ruined the easiest color ( black) by adding other colors to it...and these "toners" make a difference.

It would be a full prep job and then blending the black to make everything even, ( just in case you did not know...not writing that you didn't know...just thought I would mention it).

I know it is garage kept and low miles... but make my words...if you CHOOSE NOT TO do a re-spray on the car....do not be surprised if it comes out different colors. BECAUSE you have to remember..."somebody" has to mix your color...and even on my paint scale (which is quite accurate)....I can add 1 or 2 extra drops of "toner" to a color and have it not change the tenth of a gram on the scale ( depending on my toner). So smaller amounts of color can be effected by this. and this also depends on the strength of the "toner" in regards to its color. The WHITE I have on my paint machine is STOUT...and a few extra drops CHANGES EVERYTHING....especially in a black...which some require it. Just as an example. Sometimes I use a toothpick...and get a drop off of it....because a "normal" drop is too much coming right out of the "toner" can. But I do that ONLY when I am having to color match a color...and is not normal practice for me when I am shooting an all-over paint job.

Either way...it is a process and a pain but the end result is worth it. I truely hope everything goes well and have a great New Year.
"DUB"
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 01:43 PM
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Why wouldn't you spary the whole car? You're already painting everything except the doors, rear bumper and hood.
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by TA
Why wouldn't you spary the whole car? You're already painting everything except the doors, rear bumper and hood.
In the end you guys are right the should car should be painted to do it the right way.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 11:20 PM
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I disagree with everyone else.

In my opinion if there is nothing wrong with the rest of the car dont you dare paint the whole car.

Black is black is black. Those other colors that claim they are black but with tints are not black. GM late model C6 Corvettes are true black (WA8555).

I would panel paint the new panels off the car and you will end up with a cleaner and better job than painting the whole car. Not to mention it will be cheaper and more cost efficient.

If you paint the whole car you run the risk of overspray, you have to tape up and strip all trim and rubber, and do everything else.

If the shop is reputable and they buy top quality paint that is black (WA8555) I would put my reputation on the line and say the car would match and you wouldnt be able to tell the difference.

I would guess a shop would charge you around $800 to paint the parts you mentioned. Even though they are new GM parts they still need to be prepped properly before paint and sanded to some extent.

Good luck in whatever you do.
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by LittleJake
I disagree with everyone else.

In my opinion if there is nothing wrong with the rest of the car dont you dare paint the whole car.

Black is black is black. Those other colors that claim they are black but with tints are not black. GM late model C6 Corvettes are true black (WA8555).

I would panel paint the new panels off the car and you will end up with a cleaner and better job than painting the whole car. Not to mention it will be cheaper and more cost efficient.

If you paint the whole car you run the risk of overspray, you have to tape up and strip all trim and rubber, and do everything else.

If the shop is reputable and they buy top quality paint that is black (WA8555) I would put my reputation on the line and say the car would match and you wouldnt be able to tell the difference.

I would guess a shop would charge you around $800 to paint the parts you mentioned. Even though they are new GM parts they still need to be prepped properly before paint and sanded to some extent.

Good luck in whatever you do.
You must not paint for a living do you? BECAUSE WA 8555 has VARIANTS to it. IT IS NOT BLACK!

Either that or you are ONE LUCKY son-of a gun...and everything matches right out of the can. HECK...I wish I had your luck. If you are the one holding on to the "magic wand"...be cool and share it with some of us who could use it from time to time and make our lives a bit easier when it comes to matching/blending paint.

"DUB"
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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 11:42 PM
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heck i painted a chevrolet HHR the other week, 8555, i spray PPG Global. one varient was straight 789, black, the other had toners to add. neither was "perfect, ended up having to tint it to make it right. now, that sometimes has to do with fading. but, a perfect panel paint job is hard to accomplish. and if you are that good at them, which you may be, congrats.
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