Hi,
I’m looking for info. I have car I would like to buff out, thinking of buying a electric car polisher buffer like a big 7" 9" dewall, or Milwaukee,
I never buffed a car I have seen it done a few times, is it that hard? I know I have to keep it moving or I will burn the paint, has anyone try buffing and what did they us?

 

this is a very good item-easy to use-and the video is excellent

http://www.griotsgarage.com/


Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital
The Griot's Garage Random Orbital... Re-Engineered & All New! The Benchmark Of The Industry For Polishing, Waxing And More!
As you get older, do you still want to be using your arm and elbow to polish and wax your paint? I've developed a random orbital machine polishing system that is safe for your paint and easy for you to achieve flawless results with minimal work. Engineered with a powerful 850 watt motor with low-end torque for low speed polishing for better results. A wider, 5/16" diameter orbit for faster polishing. Variable speed indexing with 6 settings. With the Griot's Garage system, there isn't a safer or easier way to remove swirl marks, fine scratches, and apply a protective coating to your paint. Not by wool pads, not by cotton bonnets, not by hand. The problem with the old way of using wool or cotton pads and non-orbital (straight drive/rotary) polishers is that the cutting action is so great that it produces its own heat and swirl marks, burns through the paint and damages the paint. By following the detailed instructions, or watching the process with our DVD (both are included), you can polish and wax your car quickly and safely. The results will astound you. What makes it so easy? Our specially engineered Foam Pads, unique Machine Polishes and the Griot's Garage Random Orbital Machine. Our polishes and pads eliminate the chance of accidentally burning your paint. Our hook-and-loop Foam Pads are 6" in diameter. Safe for all types of paint. You can do this. Really! I promise. Choose from a 10' (18 AWG) or Extra Long 25' (16 AWG) power cord option that makes working around the entire vehicle a breeze! Foam pads sold separately.




Item# Product Quantity Price

10765 Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital
Select a Style10 Ft Power Cord - In Stock - $129.9925 Ft Power Cord - In Stock - $159.99
$129.99 - $159.99

adams also has a random orbital - watch chapter 14 in the link below

http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-videos.aspx

 

A little more info please. Are you planning to color sand (sandpaper) and buff the car to remove orange peel?

or

Are you planning to wax/polish your car and you want to make the job easier and better than "by hand"?

The random orbital buffer (Mequires also sells a unit) does a great job at waxing/polishing your car. Random orbital buffers are easy to use and are unlikely to damage your paint like a powerful rotary buffer can.

However, the more powerful rotary buffer (aggressive) is what you need to remove sanding scratch from color sanding - a random orbital buffer would be VERY SLOW at removing color sanding - it is too gentle.

 

I have recently purchased my first Corvette, a 1977. The car was painted in its original white color paint last fall in a pro shop. This is the first time the car has been polished since it was painted 4 months earlier. I washed the dust off when I picked it up 2 weeks ago, applied a good polish and wax yet the body is not as smooth as the same polish/wax treatment would yield in a metal bodied car. Is it the fiberglass that doesn't allow it to feel smooth, or should I have applied a clay bar first like I typically have on my other old cars. I do have an orbital buffer, but am inclined to try clay next. Any advice for a newbie?

 

I'm in the same boat as you. Mine was just painted and I am thinking that I want it even smoother (more mirror-like) than it turned out. I want to do it myself but I want to do it smartly - without any damage.

 

Properly flattening and polishing a new paint job is actually quite an involved process. The paint surface is generally sanded with one or more very fine grit sandpapers, using blocks not the palm of your hand which will leave visible unevenness in the surface. How many sanding steps are required depends on how uneven the paint is now. This step requires big cojones, and a real feel for just how much is enough without cutting through the top layer of paint... which would require a respray.

After the paint is sanded flat (and thinner) it must be machine polished with at least two additional steps, perhaps more, then waxed. This process requires more finesse and care than the sanding, also so as not to "cut through" and ruin your new respray. I would find some videos on paint detailing, read a book or two and get a couple estimates from pros before I invested in the sanding blocks, paper, buffer, polisher and wheels/hats/polishes needed to do the job correctly.

 

JED77vet and 79vetter,

Markids77 hit the nail on the head!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The main concern I have in both of your cases in trying to get you paint slick is the amount of paint that was applied.

Depending on the type of spray equipment, type of clear and how many coats of paint (if single stage) and the numer of coats of clear if it was cleared. these factors will determine in how much paint or clear you can safely remove.

If you sand down to much on a single stage paint job...you might break through on your edges or body lines and expose the undercoat.

If you sand down to much on a clear coat job... you can either break through to the basecoat color...which is NOT GOOD....or....get the clear to thin and it will fade out or turn hazey and will now no longer to fight against the UV's of the sun due to the thickness is below what is required for it to be the protective layer on top of your basecoat color.

So it basically depends on how lucky you are and if you a gambler. I am not saying it can not be done...BUT much care is required in doing what you both are wanting to do...and if you mess up while buffing it...often times it requires re-painting. I do this type of thing for a living and I get REALLY NERVOUS when I am asked to buff out a paint job that I did not paint. All it takes is ONE extra stoke of the sandpaper...or ONE second to long in an area being buffed that can make you regret your thought. But on a higher note....it may turn out just fine...as long as you are cautious.

Also remember this. If in your paint jobs you can see imperfections that are below the surface. and if these imperfections are somewhat noticable and deep. IF you sand down you finish and get it slick as glass....and those low spots are still in the finish. when it is buffed ...the slick paint around them will make them stand out way more than if you have texture around them. The texture in the paint now that is around them...makes them less noticable. But when it is buffed slick...will make them JUMP at you....even if the car is white. An un-trained eye can still pick them up. In some cases...leaving some texture in the finish is best so it still looks good ...but aids in hiding issues that will go unnoticed.

"DUB"