I'll be painting in the garage and I'm concerned about trash in the paint as well as my ability to lay it down as it's been a few years since I've painted a car. With those two things in mind,,, it seems to me I'll want to be able to sand the base before the clear coats.

Reviewing a few of the BC/CC tech sheets,,, seems I can sand the base,, but must put more base down before the clear. If I used a SS paint as the base,,, can I sand it then clear,,, or would I need more SS before the clear?

I'll be sanding and polishing the clear after.

Thanks!!
Fred

 

Fred,
Are you solid color or metallic?

I would not waste the money on a single stage paint and wet-sand it and then clear it. You would be getting some serious film thickness of paint. Not saying that you CAN"T...but I would not do it that way.

If trash due to the spraying enviroment is your concern...then I would basecoat the car...depending on the manufacturer...3 coats or at least until you get totoal coverage. Let it dry overnight with good air circulation....come in the next morning and carefully watersand it without getting water all over the place. You will want to be careful and keep you water run-off to where you can dry it up as you go along.

Then I would apply a coat (or two) of base and then clear coat the car.

Taking the TIME to make yourself a good spray environment is critical. Having good filtered air flow is also important. You do not want to be in a wind tunnel...and then also you do not want to be in an environment that does not have any air movement.

Make sure that you have the BEST paint respirator possible. I doubt that you will invest in a fresh air unit...so I won't even go there.

If you watersand your base coat...you may want to re-apply fresh masking paper...and BEFORE you paint...tack it off well. It all depends on the paint manufacturer you use and if the dry overspray has collected on the previous paper.

I have seen some guys locally who have painted their cars in their garages and they came out very clean. They took what appeared to be plastic that was 20ft+ wide. Ran 2 cables from their ceiling from front to rear....kinda tight and under tension Taped the plastic to the floor. Pulled the plastic across the floor so the car could be pulled onto the plastic. Taped it again to the floor. Then pulled it up and over one of the cables mounted on the ceiling. Taped it to the cable Then across to the other cable and then down to the floor. This way the only area to be filled in with intake and exhaust filters was the front and rear of the car. They also did it so they have good room at the sides of the car. Their lights shined though the clear plastic...so they were not in the painting environment while painting. They are an expolsion hazard.

Just make sure that your garage does not have any electrical component running at the time of painting...or BOOM! You could have a problem.

Just be safe and protect yourself. Saving a buck on doing it yourself is not worth a night of coughing up a lung due to be stupid and not having protected yourself. The chemicals in these paints now-a -days can cause for serious problems to your health.

And don't forget to have a fire extinguisher ready in "stand-by". A good one..because you are doing "flammable refinishing". Better to be safe than sorry.

"DUB"

 

Dub,,,
First, thanks for your thoughts. As for color,, a solid red, orange or maybe black,,, but would rather a burnt orange metallic but don’t think I’m ready for that yet as I doubt I could get the flake even. I’ve painted a few of my cars years ago in the garage so I’m familiar with the plastic sheets and respirators, didn’t really ventilate the garage that well in the past, I was young and dumb and didn’t mind yellow eyelashes. I’ll do it this time. I’m also considering a fresh air system this time as well. I’m thinking I can use some diving tanks (80 cubic feet or so each) and a long hose,, don’t know if I’d used a regulator or just let it slowly flow into a sealed hood. I think it could work and wouldn’t really cost anything as I have access to the tanks etc. I guess I need to see how some of the pro systems work. My assumption is they just pump in clean air to a hood correct?

I suspect I end up doing a BC/CC system with the sanding and recoating as you mentioned. I'd also like to sand the first few coats of the CC then do a few more as well and try to make it as nice as possible. I was just hoping I could sand the SS base,,, then clear on top without the sanding scratches showing.


Thanks again

 

make sure that the inside of the garage door is clean, all kinds of trash will fall down when you move the door. also wipe the air hose with a damp towel. home depot sells a face mask (doesn't cover the eyes) for about $25 that is approved for the same solvents that are used with these paints. just based and cleared my 72 yesterday, and spent this afternoon wet sanding for the next coat of clear.

 

Yes youa re correct. I often times sue a tyvek sandblast hood and put my hose from my fresh air system in it so I can sandblast and not worry about the silica. You painting would be the same thing. As long as the hood is positive pressure...you should have no worries about fumes getting in because more air is going out than you can actually consume....thus creating the positive pressue condition.

You can sand the single stage if you choose then clear it...it will all depend on your grit of sandpaper you use...and IF you cut down to deep into the solid color you may sometimes see the primer and then have to re-coat it again. Just be aware of getting WAY too much clear on your car. There is a point where it becomes a potential problem for a car that will see the road. This is all suspect due to not knowing what type of clear you are using...type and size of paint gun...your painting style. Many variables to consider...but it is do-able to say the least.

One bit of advice I will give you.

Regardless of whether or not you FEEL that you can spray the burnt orange metallic like on the new Corvettes..(Atomic Orange I believe) DO NOT SHORT CHANGE YOURSELF. Because nothing is worse than settling for something that YOU really don't want. Gain your confidence in painting the jambs, inside the doors, headlight bezels, lower valance just to name a few parts that you can "test drive" the color and allows you to get the gun set-up to where you are confortable with it. Nexa offers a waterbase paint that anybody could paint and not have a problem. I have tried to mess it up and it just wont do anything but come out right. You may want to consider that...but it does require a special air blower to aid in drying the paint. Some really awesome stuff. I hope that you do not settle for anything but what you want....because I am sure one day...in the future...you will be at a show and see a Corvette like yours painted the color you REALLY wanted...and regret that you did not go that route. But then again...you and only you know your limitations.

"DUB"

 

You're right up the road from me,,, I'm in Plantation. I'd like to see that paint job of yours sometime. What brand of paint/system did you use?




The thought was to block the base with 800-1000 not unlike color sanding lacquer paint,,, just trying to get it flat and any nibs/dirt out. Again the same for the clear. I'm hoping that will make up for some of lack of skills and a booth!!

The gun,,,, bought an Iwata LHP-400-lv,, 1.3 tip. I haven't decided on the paint system as of yet,,, still deciding based on these questions.

BTW,,, I won't be painting my Vette,,, but the GTM. I'm haven't started the body work yet,,,, but I'm close

Thanks Guys!

 

As for sanding the nibs out during the paint job...will be controlled by IF your paint system will allow iti or not. WET or DRY. You should be able to.

AS for sanding out texture. That can be controlled by the painter. The proper choice of reducers/thinners for the temperature conditions at the time of spraying the car. In the system I use (Nexa), I use ONE grade SLOWER than the current temp conditions....sometimes TWO grades slower. Due to spraying with HVLP Sata's...I have found a recipe that works great so I have very little to NO OVERSPRAY while painting and that the reducer/thinner will "flow-out" when it is drying or "flashing -off". The basecoat ends up slick as glass...and if I need to "nib" it out. I can do that. BUT sometimes I have to allow the basecoat to dry a bit longer so I can do that without possible "smooshing" the basecoat due to it still being wet or soft UNDER the top surfaced that appears to be dry. Like I mentioned. I have a recipe in this area and have been using the same products and have mastered them and know what I can get by with. I am NEVER in a hurry when it comes to painting a Corvette.

You should have great results out of your spray gun of choice. BUT once you get your decision made on what type of manufaturer that you are going to use...either you or your painter may want to test these materials with the gun and see how they perform together. UNLESS your painter has used that type of gun and knows the product that you have chosen. PLEASE do not just jump into the booth and start spraying...especially if you both are in "uncharted territory".

I do not claim to KNOW-IT-ALL!!! BUT what I do know is from the school of "hard knocks". And I have PAID a high tuition to that "school". AND one thing that I do KNOW is that whenever I am using a product that is not what I normally use. I stop and do as much research about it so that when I do my tests...I can have an end result be something that I am proud of. I take NOTHING for granted. Because ASSUMPTION is the MOTHER of all MESS-UPS.

So test, test, test. And when it comes to applying the basecoat and clear. You will have firm grasp on what to expect.

Your grit choice in sanding for nibs is fine....but once again...do a test panel and see for yourself. JUST do not go into this completely BLIND...and be one of "those guys" who say...."WOULDA, COULDA, SHOULDA"! Because when it is in the booth all taped up and ready to spray....your "fire" will be lit to see it completed....and without having your routine down pat....THAT is when a problem will occur. AND that is straight from "School of hard knocks 101". BEEN THERE....DONE THAT.... A LOOOOONG time ago.

"DUB"