base coat /clear coat

why cant you spray the base let it dry 1 day,check it out for flaws if none then spray the 4 coats of clear on the car?

this is a question that has been bothering me for a few months just never asked no one.and have not tryed it on a peice of metal to see what it would look like after.

 

you can. sand out the imperfections and scuff the base for good adhesion of the clear. i don't know about 4 coats of clear at the same time, you might get solvent pop. probably best to apply two coats, and repeat the sanding and then reclear.

 

Good Question!

You can. Or rather it all depends on the manufacturers recommendations of THEIR system. The PROBLEM is that when the basecoat is allowed to "stay-open" for that length of time...before the clear is applied it is absorbing moisture and other contaminents that you can not see.

If a basecoat is allowed to be left "open" and not cleared...for lets say 24 hours at 70 degrees. Some manufacturers will allow it to have more base applied over it to so the chemical adhesion of the clear can take place as designed when applied on the base that is in the "window" of time that the paiint was designed and tested in.

Some manufacturers will require light sanding with 1000 grit and re-apply the basecoat. Because the properties of their product requires it...because the penetration capabilities of the solvents of their base coat may NOT be enough to get the freshly applied coat of base to "link-up" to the dried basecoat the day before.

Doing the test panel like you though would work out fine. You probably would not have any issues at the time of spraying or the end result. The PROBLEM will come in the future when you can run into a delamination iussue due to the basecoat had lost its "window" and the clear just layed on top of it ...instead of linking to it. Much like...if you remember back in the early to mid 1980's when basecoat /clearcoat came out and was being used by the car manufacturers. GM had a clearcoat delamination issue in many of their cars...and from what I was told...they allowed the base to sit to long before clear was applied....thus losing the "window" of chemical adhesion NOT every car has this problem....but many did.

"DUB"

 

i am useing all nason products,your saying:

i can do this it would be ok to spray the base let it dry 24 hours sand to remove imperfections,then after the base is perfect i will have to spray another coat of base then after tacky to touch start my first coat of clear.

i have checked with nasons web site but cant find out if i can do this thanks dub for helping me with this question.

after 24 hours can you wet sand the base or would you have to dry sand it?

what grit do you suggest?

dub would you do this procedure,tell me the truth,what i mean is i have already painted one vett now im doing another and am learning im not affraid of making mistakes they will get fixed either way.im wanting to get more expeirance and wanted to try this procedure.dont be afraid to give me your honest opinion on this.

thanks for the help i feel the more you paint the better you get and yes i will make mistakes but that is the idea of learning and fixing them when they showup.
i want to try this procedure tell me your thoughts on it

 

if you're using nason products, you probably used a local supplier. talk to the counter people. most of them are/have been painters and will set you straight. finishmasters sells nason. seek out a local dealer. i used nason on the first car i painted and did exactly as as i mentioned. had to repeatedly sand to remove orange peel. it's been over 2 years without any problems. the job turned out pretty well for a first timer, not nearly as nice as a pro like dub would do, but "did it myself" is what i say when people complement the car.

 

WARNING: LONG RESPONSE
killer454.
You asked so here it is. And I am writing this only because it seems that you are wanting to embark on doing this on many other cars in the future. In doing so...it is time for you to STEP-UP and begin thinking like a professional. So your thoughts and actions need to change from that of a one-time "do-it-yourselfer". Because if you don't. You may find yourself in a sprial that can get out of control.

First off...I NEVER use a web site for information. I ALWAYS take the time to call and talk to a Tech Adivsor. Only because I usually have questions that are a bit 'bizarre" and they need to check to make sure that "things" will work as I hope they should. Also take the time to write down their name and possible direct extension so if you have any other questions...so you do not have to start over explaining your problem with someone else. You will build a relationship with this person so they can get a feel for what you are trying to do and your skill level.
And YES I KNOW...many people have said that all the Tech Adivor does is read off the same information that is on the web site. In some parts that is true. BUT if you are polite and use your words and charm...like I often do.... you can get in touch with the person who REALLY KNOWS what the product will do. And even might get lucky...like I have...to be connected to the chemist who makes and tests this stuff in a lab and talk to him/her. BECAUSE they REALLY know what it can do...and not so much what the company says it can do.

I wet sand the basecoat I use... eventhough my paint manufacturer PREFERS that I did not do that. Adding water to an open basecoat is dangerous...UNLESS you are careful and give the water time to dry out of the basecoat BEFORE you apply more base or clear...depending on what you are doing at that time. When I wetsand my base coat for whatever reason that calls for it...I make sure that I am careful on not allowing water to splash all over the basecoat...and keep the water to the area that I am dealing with. This also applies if I am wet sanding down the entire car due to trash specks....if required. I keep the water "under control" and not dripping and running all over the place...and dry it off with CLEAN wipers when I am done in that area...and not waiting until I am completely done and then try to dry off dried basecoat residue. Keep the wet sanded basecoat clean and dry as you go.


I use 1000 grit...sometimes 800...sometimes 1200....it all depends.....and I allow the paper to soak for a while in the water to soften/relax it and make it so the edges of the paper are not as stiff/crisp....versus as a fresh sheet pulled out of a sleeve of wet sandpaper. A fresh sheet of wet sand paper can actually slice the basecoat if it is allowed to get on edge. That is why I soak the paper for a while to soften it a bit.

If you do not rememer that you called me some time ago with an issue and I took the time out of my day to help you. No money changed hands. I did it because I wanted to help you out. Now, I do not know if you took my advice or not....in the past issue you had. And this issue is no different. I would NEVER steer a guy down a path to FAILURE. I have been there many times and have paid the price for my knowledge. You are getting that knowledge for FREE. EVERY bodyman/painter has horror stories that can fill a book. And I am not writing that I have all the answers. BUT one thing I am is HONEST!!!

PLEASE!!!!!... and I will write it again..... PLEASE!!!! Take the time to CALL the tech deptartment of your paint manufacturere that you choose to use and TALK TO THEM!!!!!! I can not make this any more clear than that. "They" are the "know-it-alls" of their product and will tell you want they RECOMMEND so that you are COMPLIANT with their products performance characteristics. I have used Nason in the past on a few small jobs...along with many other types of paint systems....BUT I am NOT the "know-it-all". If you were to use NEXA...then I have a list of tricks that would blow your mind....that are PROVEN to work without failure.

Some basecoats do not TOTALLY dry and when you try to wetsand or dry sand them...they clog up the paper. It often times requires a very skilled hand and pressure to remove and problem without "lifting", "wrinkling", "smudging" or damaging the basecoat...even if it has dried for a day.

It appears that you are on your way to doing these jobs without any major problems. But trust me...problems will occur even when you do everything RIGHT. It is the nature of the BEAST. So my best bit of advice is ...Find a procedure that you use that gives you success and follow it. DO NOT change a thing. It is like a recipe for cookies. If you leave out one ingredient...the cookies taste different. The process I use takes so much time that actually painting the car is the least amount of time I have with it...but it is all of those "other things" that need to be addressed to make sure that the paint job comes out flawless.....and if I leave just one step out...how can I expect the paint job to be as fine as I want it to be by cutting a corner.

Best of luck. Just be patient and stay FOCUSED!!!!!

"DUB"

 

Regardless if you are a "pro" (as you put it) like me or not. NOTHING feels better than to get complimented on a job well done. You get a MAJOR for doing it yourself from me. A lot of people will not do that...so even if it is not as nice as some "other" cars you see...the FACT is that YOU DID IT. And for me that speaks volumes. And long as you LOVE IT...then it is a job VERY WELL DONE.

"DUB"