Question for Painters
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From: Buffalo New York
Question for Painters
I'm about to have my 84 painted.. I've never had a car painted before. I have two guys in mind... both do good work. First one says he will give the car 4-5 coats of paint (a royal blue.. car is currently a royal blue) and will need a gallon and a quart of paint... I'm using a top line PPG paint. He will also be using PPG 2055 Clamour Clear and putting on 3 coats. Is that too much paint and clear? The second guy will use 2 quarts of PPG paint and a "lesser" clear... I think he said 2042. The prep work will be pretty much the same by both guys and the difference in cost between the 2 is basically the lesser cost of paint and clear by the 2nd guy. Is the first guy going to "overkill" with so much paint and clear? Also... the first guy is going to use NCP 271 Sealant/Primer... I dom't recall what the 2nd guy will use. Thanks, Bill.
Safety Car
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From: Colo. Spgs. Colo.
St. Jude Donor '10-'11
5 qts. of color?? 
With the right color undercoat, thats enough to do several C-4's, maybe a truck and a Harley.
Rule of thumb is enough color to achieve hiding. For me, I do just that and maybe 1 more for what I call an 'insurance' coat for transparency and tiger stripes. I like PPG's 'DBC' and 'Global' lines(I dont know if you can get 'DBU' anymore).
Clear--the 2042 is PPG's production clear, its ok, I like 2002 personally. And as for amount of clear, 3 coats of a high solids clear is decent enough that you can do some sanding and buffing on and still maintain your mil's.
Why would the one guy use the NCP-271 primer on SMC?? It was developed to be used on bare metal only after treating first with a wash primer for it has some corrosion properties built in it. I like K-36/38 and it can also be tinted with the 'DG' line of toners.
With the right color undercoat, thats enough to do several C-4's, maybe a truck and a Harley.Rule of thumb is enough color to achieve hiding. For me, I do just that and maybe 1 more for what I call an 'insurance' coat for transparency and tiger stripes. I like PPG's 'DBC' and 'Global' lines(I dont know if you can get 'DBU' anymore).
Clear--the 2042 is PPG's production clear, its ok, I like 2002 personally. And as for amount of clear, 3 coats of a high solids clear is decent enough that you can do some sanding and buffing on and still maintain your mil's.
Why would the one guy use the NCP-271 primer on SMC?? It was developed to be used on bare metal only after treating first with a wash primer for it has some corrosion properties built in it. I like K-36/38 and it can also be tinted with the 'DG' line of toners.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Charlotte NC
5 qts. of color?? With the right color undercoat, thats enough to do several C-4's, maybe a truck and a Harley.
Rule of thumb is enough color to achieve hiding. For me, I do just that and maybe 1 more for what I call an 'insurance' coat for transparency and tiger stripes. I like PPG's 'DBC' and 'Global' lines(I dont know if you can get 'DBU' anymore).
Clear--the 2042 is PPG's production clear, its ok, I like 2002 personally. And as for amount of clear, 3 coats of a high solids clear is decent enough that you can do some sanding and buffing on and still maintain your mil's.
Why would the one guy use the NCP-271 primer on SMC?? It was developed to be used on bare metal only after treating first with a wash primer for it has some corrosion properties built in it. I like K-36/38 and it can also be tinted with the 'DG' line of toners.
With the right color undercoat, thats enough to do several C-4's, maybe a truck and a Harley.Rule of thumb is enough color to achieve hiding. For me, I do just that and maybe 1 more for what I call an 'insurance' coat for transparency and tiger stripes. I like PPG's 'DBC' and 'Global' lines(I dont know if you can get 'DBU' anymore).
Clear--the 2042 is PPG's production clear, its ok, I like 2002 personally. And as for amount of clear, 3 coats of a high solids clear is decent enough that you can do some sanding and buffing on and still maintain your mil's.
Why would the one guy use the NCP-271 primer on SMC?? It was developed to be used on bare metal only after treating first with a wash primer for it has some corrosion properties built in it. I like K-36/38 and it can also be tinted with the 'DG' line of toners.
5 quarts of paint is WAY to much. And I Hope you are talking about the paint not yet being reduced/thinned. Because after you thin it...you would have enough to darn near paint a tractor trailer. Maybe not...but you get our point. When I do a Corvette I can get by with 2 quarts( unreduced) when reduced, it makes a gallon of sprayable paint...and that is on a primered car...and still have paint left over. Granted it is NOT PPG....but the "rules" stated by "ragtopman" still apply. As long as you achieve full "TRUE COLOR" and possibly blow another coat to "just make sure" that EVERYTHING is covered....you should not need that much paint. NOW....some colors do require a bit more due to the pigments/toners that make up the color are weak. Thus causing them not to cover well. But it still should not require that much paint. Seems like a lot of $$$$$ being wasted. Have some left over is good for "possible" future nicks and scrapes and such.
I have been out of the "PPG-loop" for some time. and the clears/primers I know nothing about. It seems that I would go by what "ragtopman" stated.
If you have any concerns...and you feel that these responses are not answering your questions. PPG does have a tech line number that you can call and ask then if the products that these two painters have chosen are going to work and give you a result that will stand up over time. If you want PPG's toll free number....PM me and I will give it to you.
You voicing your concerns is a VERY GOOD MOVE on your part. BUT...the "funny" thing about painters, (myself included). When a painter has found that a procedure or use of a product(s) has worked for them without any problems..."they" are often times not going to change. It is simply due to the RISK factor. It is a "If it is working...why should I change" way of thinking. The problem can occur that if these painters only paint metal cars...and try to employ their tactics in doing your Corvette. The use of products MADE FOR metal cars...can sometimes not be the right choice when it comes to doing a Corvette. I paint mainly Corvettes....and when I do have the chance to restore a metal car.....trust me...the products and procedures do change....or at least I change my way of doing things due to the body material ( metal versus SMC/fiberglass) and repair characteristics change. Paint is one thing....but getting to to successfully "link-up" and bond to primers, fillers and whatever is another. AND that is where it all makes a difference.
BEST OF LUCK,
"DUB"
