I've bought a 73 that has paint peeling and cracking all over it.

I figured no big deal. I'll sand it down and change the color to black like I wanted.

Now some old body guy told me that since it has had the matte exposed and rained on. It will always bubble paint off???

I hope thats crap. Or am I doomed?

i haven't even had a chance to sand anything. The car is pealling everywhere by itself. I hate when people macco paint a car 4 times.

I new to fiberglass. I've always worked with metal.

 

You are not "doomed" ...but ...it is NOT GOOD that the fibers are exposed for any length of time to the environment. So it depends on how much of the surface areas was really exposed. If it is in spots. Concentrate on those areas...and do nto worry about those areas that were still covered.

This will not be a quick process...because you have to try your best to make sure that your allow the exposed areas dry out. And this may take time and/ or the use of infra-red heater or putting it in a bake booth for a while. The whole idea it to try to make sure that any moisture...and other contaminents that possibly got into the fibers are gone. Because if this moisture and/or "crap" is in the fibers. It COULD prevent good adhesion of your primary undercoat that you apply to the bare body. Drying out wet exposed fibers in fiberglass is a royal pain...because you do not really know when you got it all out. I usually use infra-red heaters due to the heat they can produce is much higher than a bake booth. You do not what to get it to hot. But it mainly is a time issue with the heat that I have found. Others may have suggestions on this issue.

"DUB"

 

dub, i posted a question earlier about soda blasting the body of my 65 vette,i had great replies, but one guy said to do a search for earlier post about this topic. i noticed on one of post, a question was asked about exposed fiber. well here goes, my car has been apart for about25 years body off. i stripped just about all the paint and primer off the back lid long ago.it has been in my garage which is not climate controlled for that length of time.it feels like some fibers are esposed on theback top lid but not on the sides of the fenders,will that be a major problem. starting to finally work on getting the car back on the road.it needs body work done on the front clip and the door gutters are badly rusted out. i would appreciate your opinon about the fibers and the problem about changing the gutters. i know the gutters are riveted and spot welded, not a job for a novice i would assume.thanks

 

A lot will have to do with what the normal operations in your garage. Knowing that your body has been exposed...even though it is inside. What POSSIBLE types of containments could have gotten on your body panels? This will be a determining factor. BUT...to be on the safe side....it will be more than likely require a thorough cleaning of these panels that have been exposed to "stuff" and allowed to dry. I try to not allow panels to get exposed to "stuff"... and many here on the forum have washed the bodies down with DAWN and allowed them to dry. I have never performed this procedure so I can not SWEAR that it works. Something about allowing a product to be introduced/absorbed that could possible leave a residue behind bothers me. BUT...many here on the forum have and say that their cars are just fine. This is why I use acetone on all final cleanings of a panel...even those with exposed fibers...but that is just me. I do not have days/weeks to allow a body to dry out.

As for the door gutters....photo's would be appreciated. This can be a "touchy area" due to the heat needed to weld them in place after they have been removed. It will take a bit of time and PATIENCE...but none the less. They can be replaced. So do not loose sleep over it. It will all depend on the extent of the rust damage.

"DUB"

 

thanks Dub, i'll try to post some pictures of the rails, and body

 

09silverfox,
If fibers are exposed most likely they are chopped strand mat. I would clean the part and then topcoat with epoxy resin. After curing, sand the epoxy and start with priming, make sure the primer you are using is eopxy compatible.

 

09silverfox owns and is writing about a 65. The use of epoxy resin is not needed. Polyester resin...if needed....will work very well. His 65 is not made out of SMC. No need to add more steps into his repair. Maybe you have got him confused with the guy who created this post.

"DUB"

 

Dub... OPs first question regards his newly purchased 1973, which I think is early SMC not polyester. Epoxy on SMC and polyester on his 1965... yes?

 

DUB,
Polyester was the original resin used with the chopped gun, nowadays the vinylester or epoxy resins are far superior.

 

Yes, If you asking if epoxy resin is what I put on SMC...YES I do. And I use polyester on Pre-SMC cars.

I do not deny that the current resins of today...that are used to make the body panels and the process that is used to make these panels are far superior than that of what was used back in the polyester press-molded panel era. And with that...I also know that carbon fiber is far superior to fiberglass matt or cloth. Because I have used and use it where it is required. But that does not make it so that every repair I do on someones Corvette is with carbon fiber and epoxy resin because it is "better".

And as you probably know...If a repair is CORRECTLY performed using polyester resin and fiberglass matt and/or cloth. It is strong enough to withstand A LOT of stress.

I was only commenting on your advice (which is/was good advice) but is overkill...(in my opinion)...due to the rest of the car is made out of something different. I was just trying to save him some $$$$. And yes...I (we) both know that there are a lot of materials that far exceed what was used back in the 1960's. That are being currently used today...as a common practice. That I, myself use.
I am under the belief that if it is an SMC car...use epoxy...if it is a polyester car...use polyester...in regards to resins.

"DUB"

 

Just reading DUB's advice on baking the car to remove any moisture that is in the exposed laminate, and not really being about to tell when it was enough.

In another life I was a Marine Surveyor (think property appraiser for yachts) and had an electronic moisture meter used for tracking moisture or water intrusion into the laminates in fiberglas boat hulls. I got rid of mine when I left that area of the business, and they are about $400.

I once ran it over my buddy's Vette as a joke, and could see difference in the readings around the car. If this car has serious issues, look up Marine Surveyor in the phone book, and maybe you can find a guy that will drop by and check it before and after, or in process to track the drying process. Sort of a couple of bucks and a beer sort of thing.

 

THANKS...This would be an AWESOME TOOL for me to have. IF you can remember anything about the tool to have mentioned. ...(name brand, model #, etc) I REALLY would appreciate it. If not...I will begin the search for this instrument that you used.

Just goes to show ya. Learn something new every day!

"DUB"

 

Some good stuff here so I am going to

 

Dub, I did a quick search, and this link is I believe the one I had. Kind of expensive toy for an individual, but in your case having a shop doing a lot of Vettes it would probably be worth the investment.

http://www.abqindustrial.net/store/t...l?currency=USD

I know what you mean . . . for a guy who had all the answers at 17, I amazed what I learn every day at 47!!

 

boatmark,

Thanks brother!!!! You are THE MAN!!!

"DUB"