First vette. I've painted a lot of motorcycles in my time, but fiber glass car is new to me. What is the best way to prep. this car. It's white and i want to shoot it with the original white color. I want to paint it ONCE don't want any peeling or problems afterwards. The paint that's on it isn't in terrible condition,mostly faded and discoloration.I'm doing this on a very limited retirement. Paint won't be done until next winter, but i like to ponder things before i do them. It's a 87C4. This yr. i want to concentrate on the drive train first.

 

Can you tell if the can has been painted AFTER the factory job??? IMPORTANT INFO to know!!!! Please respond to this question..

"DUB"

 

I'm going to take a very close look and i'll get back. THANKS

 

I've looked close , but i'm still not sure. I checked the door jams, under the weather stripping. If it was painted it was a professional job. Maybe you can answer a question . The car is not pure white. It's more of a light bone color it looks white until you put it next to pure white.In 87 was it pure white or a off white ?? The front panel between the headlights and bumper has been painted, that is really white. It's really questionable if the car should be repainted. (borderline ) THANKS

 

There are so many shades of white it is hard to say. Some colors are really white while others look white until you get them next to another car that is whiter. SO you seeing a bone color is not uncommon. If you call, into the paint supply shop and have them pull up the color formula...they can tell you how much yellow, red, blue, black and other colors are added to the white to make it unique. It is not just white in the color.

"DUB"

 

Just for the heck of it i was surfing and the car came in two different white colors--(WHITE) and (SADDLE WHITE)--Where is the paint code on the car ??? THANKS:Ken

 

The paint code should be on a roughly 3"x5" white sticker applied to the underside of your console lid (this sticker has all of your option codes for what the car was built with)....if not....it may be under the compartment lid behind your passenger seat. You will be looking for the WA code....usually located towards the bottom of the sticker.

"DUB"

 

Corvette white in 87 was GM RPO code 40U and the WA number was 8554. This color was used from 1984 through 1988.

In 1989, the white changed to WA9567 and the GM Code returned to 10 which was the same code for later C34's but the WA number for the later C3's was 3465.

The RPO sticker will be under the console lid on the 87 cars.

 

:I checked the paint code with the local parts store and they said it was white, so i'm sure now it was repainted at some point. Right now it's a bone white. What is my safest option without removing all the repaint. I'm not looking for a show car, but i want a nice looking,long lasting paint job. Is there any help for this car on my small retirement??? THANKS:Ken

 

Ken1950,
A lot has to do with if it has been repainted....how well the previous paint shop prepped the factory paint for their paint job. I know you do not want a show paint job....but IF the previous shop barely scuffed the factory paint and shot on it....you can run into a HIGH probability of the paint delaminating due to improper surface preparation.

Without being there to closely look at what you have. You could prep (wet sand) what you have now and shoot on it. It will depend on what you can live with and not live with in regards to surface imperfections and irregularities.

"DUB"

 

It looks like an older re-paint. There's no peeling or cracking at this point. Is there a certain type of paint and primer that would be the safest to use??? I did work in a body shop for two summers (1965) so i know some basics. A friend of mine said he would do the shoot if i buy the materials and prep it. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP

 

See what your friend is comfortable with in using. regardless of what I may say or advise. IF he is used to using a specific product...and has mastered it well. I would go with that. I use NEXA paint...usually sold where PPG is sold.

Due your paint job on this car is old and cured out....it really won't matter what or who's product you apply on it....as long as it is prepped correctly. There are some clear sealers that can be applied on your car so that when the color is applied....you wont have to worry about hiding some other colored sealer ( which are usually light gray)...and having this colored sealer blow into gaps and leave this residue behind. But that is me just being picky....due to I do this stuff for a living and have to be concerned about stuff like that.

Whatever you do....just make sure that your primer and or sealer are able to be activated with a hardener so they cure....instead of the old lacquer stuff that cures through time/temperature. So NO rattle can stuff...especially if you are planning on using it on the exterior...even though there are some really good aerosol can primers out there....I prefer NOT to use them where the sun shines on the car.

"DUB"

 

Thanks for the info, i'm not going to cut corners on cheap crap. It's always cheaper in the long run to buy quality material . If you use cheap crap you always end up doing it twice. THANKS AGAIN

 

I have an old road and track book on 83 - 88 Corvettes and I'm sure the front cover car was a bone colour white Vette in a barn ? Now if I could only find it. Stewy