Left Fender
THIS IS A SERIOUS REPAIR!!!!!! You WILL HAVE TO obtain a special gun to apply the adhesive required to bond this apron to the frame.
You better have PATIENCE and an eye for detail.
This APRON is a part of the structure of your car. It is bonded to the frame in several areas...and there is a process to removing the old one and installing the new one. This apron, when correctly installed...allows you to install your fender and headlight assembly and get it to fit with the hood. The worst part of this job is getting the old one off and (using a few "tricks") the new one positioned...and install the fender to make sure it is correct....mark everything. Then remove everything and applying the adhesive needed...and re-installing it. If it is too high, your hood won't fit. If it is too far out....you will not have a correct gap between the hood and fender. Then it is the headlight mounting and front bumper cover installation. There are some "tricks" to doing this...but even with these tricks. It is a TIME consuming job. Because if you do not get it right....nothing will fit and look correct. By the way...no holes should be drilled into your frame for this repair. Or at least I DO NOT DRILL HOLES for screws and what have you to aid in holding the apron in place while it is curing.
One blessing is that if you get it wrong...you can remove the part and start over due to the adhesive is released by using a heat gun to soften it and allow the apron to separate from the frame.
I have replaced these aprons...so this is not opinion....but experience.
"DUB"
Thank you very much for the detailed information. Skill levels for bodywork? I have none but I am very talented with my hands, as a matter of fact I am building a 41' sail yacht with balsa core and high tech fiberglass. Have a lot of tools but not a heatgun
. What strikes me is that one bodyshop quoted the replacement at 5.5 hours and another at 20 hours. I understand that the apron is bonded to the frame with 3M8115, am I correct? What are those tricks you are talking about? and what is the process to remove the old one? Step by step would be greatly appreciated. If you will, please PM me. Thanks
Thank you very much for the detailed information. Skill levels for bodywork? I have none but I am very talented with my hands, as a matter of fact I am building a 41' sail yacht with balsa core and high tech fiberglass. Have a lot of tools but not a heatgun
. What strikes me is that one bodyshop quoted the replacement at 5.5 hours and another at 20 hours. I understand that the apron is bonded to the frame with 3M8115, am I correct? What are those tricks you are talking about? and what is the process to remove the old one? Step by step would be greatly appreciated. If you will, please PM me. ThanksI do not use 3M adhesives when repairing a component like this. I use Lord Fusor. So I can not honestly say if it will be an acceptable material or not. ESPECIALLY due to what the apron does in regard to structure.
I regards to the conflict in estimating times given by two separate shops. It is just that. An estimate....but the 20 hour one is more realistic...and they must have done one or two to see that the times given in a crash guide are often NOT REALITY. Due to many owners of Corvettes expect perfection...it will require extra time to make sure that when completed...it is just as like it was before the apron was replaced....and if something is "off" a bit. They often times remark that they would have been glad to pay extra to make it perfect. If you go with the lower time estimating shop. You might be dealing with a car that when completed is not the same. But...then again...it may be perfect also. It all deals with the fitting before bonding...and that this fitting stays so all parts can be re-assembled/aligned as designed.
"DUB"
Thanks again for the info. My friend (chevy dealer) closed doors long time ago. Maybe somebody on this or other Forums can help me out with the couple of pages from the service manual. As far as time estimate the 20 hours was done by eyeballing and the 5.5 was done by a program callled Mitchell International, Ultramate version, used by a lot of bodyshops.
So fellas, if somebody has the manuals please help me out. Thanks.










