Marc Lefebvre

Just got my 06Z back from the paint shop about a month ago. Had the whole thing painted VY which is the original color. Paint job came out awesome. Car was painted by a friend of mine who owns probably the best paint shop around. I am having some paint protection work done this week by another local shop that does good work. I have put about 150 miles on the car since the new paint job and I have noticed three small chips in the paint already, two on the driver side rear brake duct and one on the front fascia. I am very careful not to follow close behind the car in front of me and am careful not to drive on sandy roads. Z06's are proned to rear brake duct chipping due to small pebbles being thrown rearward by the sticky front tires. Paint guy said he will touch up the chips before the cleartastic goes on. My question is , is a repainted car more likely to chip than a factory paint job? Also I have noticed some fine scratches when looking at the car in sunlight. I haven't even washed the car yet. I use a california duster, which I am constantly striking as I use it so that whatever it picks up hopefully will fall off so I don't wipe the car with a dirty duster and then put a cover on it. Is it possible not to get these fine scratches and can I get rid of the ones I have. Getting very discouraged. Thanks, Marc L.

DUB

Factory paint or a re-paint...ALL PAINT JOBS can chip. NO paint is available to completely resist chipping. If you drive it...you take that chance because to can not control what is on the road and can come back onto your paint and chip it.

Depending on the amount of clear that was applied to your paint job...and the depth of these "fine scratches".. They can more than likely be polished out.

AND for what it is worth to you. I will tell you what I tell my customers know right from the "git-go". IF they use a California Duster" ( or any miracle wiping tool", and they scratch their finish...they are on their own...or will have to pay me to fix it.

If your car was in a museum...and NEVER subjected to harsh grit and other "things". Then I would be POSSIBLY more likely to use it....maybe. BUT being a car that is driven...and using this duster to remove "stuff". In my opinion...you are dry wiping the paint and can scratch it. Because when the duster touches the finish...you are dragging "whatever" it is picking up and dragging it along your paint. AND YES..I know you are not applying a lot of pressure...but it still can scratch a finely polished mirror finish...or potentially scratch it. It seems like you have a procedure to try to ensure that you do not allow crap from scratching your paint...but....

Last but not least is when your cover is being installed. The smallest speck of crap can wreak havoc on a finish....when it is being stretched/pulled over your paint job.

It seems like you want it perfect ( as many people do)...but in reality...a car that is driven is EXTREMELY HARD to keep perfect....way too many "things" are out of your control... and you are going to end up giving yourself an anxiety attack.

"DUB"

eurostyle

DUB,
I would say all repainted jobs will chip and factory paint is bullet proof.Why do I say this? because I drove my 2007 for over a year and there was no one paint chip. After a fender bender they had to repaint the front bumper and right after that I start noticing a few chips and driving it more chips were all over the place. I question the body shop and their answer was......all cars have chips, MB, BMW, ect.
For me that was BS so I sent an Email to GM asking them what clearcoat they use on the corvette. Their answer was "sorry, we can't give you any info as our clearcoat is propietary formula"
My chevy Venture with over 140.000 miles does not have one chip.

DUB

If you are talking about the paint on a urethane bumper cover....you are PARTLY correct. GM's process for painting this type of part is NOT the same as the rest of the panels on the car that ARE NOT URETHANE. And...GM does not apply the clear thick on these panels also....which in turn along with the properties of the paint/clear aids in resisting chips...but they still chip. I know this because I fix these issues on factory paint jobs often. YES...you are CORRECT...factory painted bumpers chip much less that that of a freshly painted car that has thicker clear on the bumper cover and the fact that MOST SHOPS DO NOT use flex-additive in the clear to aid in this problem....but by no means is it "bullet-proof". Not wanting to argue with you...and I HATE IT that you freshly painted parts are chipping.....but a trained eye would find a blemish or two on any bumper cover that has been driven for any length of time on the road. Chips happen...it is a part of driving your car and enjoying it. Not a good part...but a part none the less.

The chips you are encountering can also be attributed to poor preparation BEFORE it was painted. If the paint starts to pop off around these chips. Then a crucial step or steps were left out of the prep and/or application of specific adhesion promoters to prevent this. IF it does...take it back and make them fix it....but if they couldn't get it right the first time....you have to wonder if they are going to give a crap and get it right the second time...which takes much, much, much more effort that doing it right the first time.

"DUB"

TioSterling

The clear will chip easier when its fresh like that too.

Dub- I have worked in a couple diff bodyshops in my career and not one of them ever used the flex additive. Is it helpful for chipping and the spider cracks down the road? I was always told that the flex additive was only good for a week or so to aid in the re-assembly process. I know nothing about flex additive or haven't ever looked into it.

eurostyle

I don't mind a couple chips on a OEM bumper but 50+ after it has been repainted is ridiculos. Body shops are there to make $$ and the one I use is top notch but.........no flex additive is used.

CF6873

I can't speak for all brands of paint but with Dupont if you activate the basecoat it will be much more chip resistant. Some shops will spend the time and $ to do this but many will not.

DUB

Yes, I have also been told that the flex additive only last for a short period of time to aid in flexible part installation. It all depends on the paint manufacturers formula and BELIEF PHILOSOPHY about these type of parts and how they should be after paint. BUT...In the paint system I use. I shot a handball over 15 years ago...and the paint is still flexible due to this manufacturer's flex-additive additive does not leave the paint. It is an often known practice that painter's will not add this additive to clear. Which goes back to one of my earlier statements in this post on "hoping" that the car gets damaged and the bumper would have to be replaced again...thus not worrying about using flex-additive in the first place. That is a total wrong way of thinking...which shows in the condition of the paint right now for "eurostyle". I REALLY HATE it for "eurostyle".

Like I mentioned...I hate it for you...and this should not be occurring to the extent that you are describing.....ESPECIALLY on the "flagship" car of GM's line for performance and styling.

"DUB"

eurostyle

Well, after a fender/bender the old bumper is for the trash can. I bought one in mint condition here on the forum, same color, for $250. Before I install it I am going to try this new product, Kristal Clear 2K chip guard, from Dominionsureseal.com, a worldwide company located in Canada. A qt. kit is only $90 and you can spray 3 bumpers, mill tickness betwen 5 and 9. There is a video on Youtube, check it out. It looks amazing.

DUB

Give "us" some feedback when you get it done.

"DUB"