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I sanded the BC/CC on a panel from 1200 to 1500 to 2000 and finished with 3000. Then buffed. In the shop under the flouresant lites it looks like it has orange peel, but if I put it outside in the sun lite it looks great. Ever seen such a thing?
It probably does have some orange peel. It is almost impossible to remove all of the peel starting with 1200. When looking at paint under florescent bulbs you will see the peel because of the straight line reflection of the bulb.
I start with 1000 on a DA sander ,but some guys use coarser paper and then reclear with 1 or 2 more coats to get the peel out. I have never sanded clear with 800 but I think it would take a lot of work to remove the scratches.
The DA seems to remove more peel than wet sanding. If you DA, be careful not to clog the paper and put pig tails in the clear.
I dropped down to 1000 grit and re-sanded the car, and then work back up thru the grits to 3000. Buffed it out and it looks 100% better. Thanks for all the advice guys!!
Started with the deck lid
sanded with 1000
then 1200, 1500,2000, then 3000
then buffed
I think it looks 100% better, went and did the same thing to the rest of the car
I've heard of people using a DA to color sand before, and all I can usually picture is a lot of bare metal (or in this case fiberglass) showing through. Eek! What DA do you use, and what's your technique? I restore cars professionally and usually paint them as well, but I always color sand by hand. I'm guessing a DA would be much faster, and probably give better results. Again, as long as you don't remove too much!
Dan, You want to use a palm style DA with an interface pad. I like the 3M or Dynabrade sander with a 3/16 -1/4" stroke. 3M velcro attached paper should be used wet so that is doesn't ball up the clear residue and give you pig tails. You can start with 1000 to remove the peel. Just keep a squeegie in your hand to check the peel.Then follow up with 1500 and then finish with Trizact 3000. Just keep the sanding off of all edges and style lines.
Sounds pretty good. I'll definitely look into this. I have two cars nearly ready to paint in the shop and I might give this a try when the time comes.
Now I'm curious, after DA color sanding with up to 3000 grit, it doesn't sound like you'd need to do much buffing/polishing to get a mirror finish. What compounds and/or polishes do you finish up with after the sanding, if you don't mind educating me, and in conjunction with what pad(s)?
There are many good quality compounds and polishes available and every shop has their favorite. I mostly have experience with 3M products. I start with a wool pad and #6085 (1) compound. Then change to the black foam pad with #6064(2) polish and finish with a blue foam pad with #6068(3) swirl remover.
You are correct in stating that after sanding with 3000 Trizact that the surface is almost semigloss before buffing.
3M just released a 5000 grit DA disc but I have not tried it yet.
Thanks again. I'm surprised you start with a wool pad and rubbing compound. I almost wondered if you could go straight into the lighter polishes and and foam pads.
and click "Paint Finish Full Panel Process" to get the download. Got it up on my garage wall. What CF6873 said, but with all the steps in more detail. Lots of other good stuff there as well.
I've heard of people using a DA to color sand before, and all I can usually picture is a lot of bare metal (or in this case fiberglass) showing through. Eek!
It all depends on what the geometry of the panel is and what kind/grit of paper you're using.
You can even sand with an electric DA that detailers use for polishing paint.
When doing Orange Peel removal, it's usually best to start by hand with either 800 or 1200. This will depend on how hard the paint is. From there, slap on a disc of 3M Trizact 1500 and start your refining all the way up to 3000 grit which is the next level up.
From there, (in my honest opinion), there really isn't any need for a heavy compound and wool pad as a 3000 grit sand scratch should be able to be cut out like butter with a hot knife. I've been demonstating to people that with the right product/technique, you can use an electric DA to make your paint perfect with just 2 steps. And by using this type of machine (instead of a circular/rotary buffer) you will NEVER have swirls come back because you aren't ever putting them into your finish.
3M's system is great for a production style body shop stuck on their old school ways of cutting ang buffing paint, but it's pretty outdated. 3 polishing steps on 99% of modern paint just isn't needed.
From there, (in my honest opinion), there really isn't any need for a heavy compound and wool pad as a 3000 grit sand scratch should be able to be cut out like butter with a hot knife. I've been demonstating to people that with the right product/technique, you can use an electric DA to make your paint perfect with just 2 steps. And by using this type of machine (instead of a circular/rotary buffer) you will NEVER have swirls come back because you aren't ever putting them into your finish.QUOTE