84 body prep help
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 124
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From: glens falls ny
84 body prep help
My 84 is in dire need of a paint job. The paint i'm pretty sure is stock and the body has no cosmetic damage besides some waves in the rear bumper. The cars black now and i plan on keeping it that way, i just want it to be clean. The clear coat has been peeling for a while and had started before i bought the old crossfire. Ive started some small work cleaning with "DAWN" and i've de-greased with prep-all but ive found that there are a few ways to start taking the clear coat off, wet sand or scuff pads on the bumpers what should i use? On the body do i use something else? I would like maybe some step by step help for my 84 that would be great i really want to get the work and paint done myself thanks for any info!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 124
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From: glens falls ny
ive heard of drill attachments too with 80 grit paper this sounds scary i think id wanna take em down by hand can u wet sand with a 600 grit on the bumpers? And do i take all the base paint off or can i use the epoxy over some of the finish ..... Any help at all?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,107
Likes: 14
From: Lancaster PA
I would not strip off the base coat unless it is also peeling or cracking.
Chances are it is just the clear peeling off. Please don't use any 80 grit on a drill or otherwise. You would definitely regret it. Your choices are wet sand or DA sand. I would DA sand the clear off with 320 and then go over it with 400. If you go through the base a few places it won't be a big deal.
If you have no bodywork or waves to straighten there is no need for fill primer, you can apply sealer and then paint.
Chances are it is just the clear peeling off. Please don't use any 80 grit on a drill or otherwise. You would definitely regret it. Your choices are wet sand or DA sand. I would DA sand the clear off with 320 and then go over it with 400. If you go through the base a few places it won't be a big deal.
If you have no bodywork or waves to straighten there is no need for fill primer, you can apply sealer and then paint.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,709
Likes: 3
From: Savannah GA
If you sand the car with a DA I guarantee it will be a wavy mess when you are done. Black shows any and all imperfections in the surface... it's the "worst" color for making an amateurish prep job look bad. Use the search function here... try "block sanding" for starters. Then search "primer" and "guide coat", then remember what you learned in the block sanding search and repeat as required until it is straight as you can make it.
Then search "painting" and read up on what guns make a novice look like a pro, what your air requiremets will be, and search "paint booth" so you can improvise an area clean enough to finish the car in.
Once you do some reading if you decide it won't go to Maaco instead come back and ask some less general, more educated questions about how to proceed.
Then search "painting" and read up on what guns make a novice look like a pro, what your air requiremets will be, and search "paint booth" so you can improvise an area clean enough to finish the car in.
Once you do some reading if you decide it won't go to Maaco instead come back and ask some less general, more educated questions about how to proceed.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 291
Likes: 17
From: Woodinville Wa
If you do not like sanding stop!!! I am doing my 63 I am at the buffing stage it is looking good not great but that is OK. You should read everything about painting your car at all stages Stripping Priming ,spraying and buffing.It is hard to tell what you should do at each stage,should you strip down to glass or not.You could ask 10 people and get 10 different answers. That is what I found out for every stage of painting.Not that everyone is wrong it has to do with the experence of that person is. That is why I said about sanding When you try one thing and found out it is'nt working resand.It depends on the paint you use as the cost I would say have a buget of $1000.and a lot of time.I used SPI expoxe primer go to their web site the will give you a I idea of what it takes add factor of ten.This is a do able project but it will take time a lot of time I wish I could say this is the way to do it but I can't .If you take it to a shop the price start at $6000 and up,labor ,labor , and more labor. Good luck Vince
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 124
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From: glens falls ny
well sounds to me like im gonna continue wet sanding the whole car keeping clean and using my wax and de_greaser!!! Then read up a bit on how to fix some small waves in the REAR bumper. Then sounds like more sanding,reading, sanding, sealer, paint, sanding, buffing ! thanks ill keep you guys updated!!!
Last edited by ETRBUJ1984; Sep 11, 2012 at 09:19 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 124
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From: glens falls ny
One more question here then.... Whats a DA sand?
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,709
Likes: 3
From: Savannah GA
A DA is an air powered random-orbit sander generally equipped with either a 4 inch or 6 inch diameter round sanding pad which can accept most grades of dry, or wet/dry sandpaper. Many people purchase inexpensive models and ruin their surfaces because the pads won't run true... they wobble, chatter and dig at the edges. Even premium brands like 3M and Dynabrade require experienced hands to run effectively because they cut very quickly and can oversand in the hands of a novice. NO DA is equivalent to blocking a surface for straightness; even if you're Chip Foose.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 124
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From: glens falls ny
So taking it nice and slow by hand isn't bad either? Should i still be using a 400 to 600 grit and take most of the clear and into the base coat? And Ive been wet sanding the bumper taking the clear coat off is the any special attention i should pay to the bumpers?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 62
From: West Kingston RI
You'll be 3 years of Sundays using 400 to 600 grit. I use 80 to 100 grit to get thru the clear and if going to bare glass even use it on the color. Then I switch to 120, if only going to the original primer then switch when you are thru the clear. 
Last edited by 929nitro; Sep 13, 2012 at 12:59 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,709
Likes: 3
From: Savannah GA
Factory urethane bumpers are not "moldable". If you have edge fit issues you can loosen the fasteners there and "tweek" the fit somewhat. The holes in the panels are slotted so there's some adjustability. Be patient, and take your time because this part is a PITA... if you get aggravated walk away and try later.