Daleford

I have been away from this for sometime but I want to do some buffing. This will be new clear coat I am working on and I plane to sand out any nibs or orange peel with 2000 grit wet or dry paper. Then compound and buff.
What are the basics of this? You compound and then what? I read about sealers, glazes, swirl removers, wax, polish.
I am confused on the steps. HeLp !!!

rogman16

While I am sure everyone will give you a slightly different answer as to their technique, here's what I did...

Sprayed PPG DBC 9700 (Black) base and DCU2021 Clear (4 wet coats)...

I used a Milwaukee Rotary Buffer w/9 inch wool pad, 6" 3m DA sander, a 3" Griot's DA polisher and a Porter Cable (PC) 7424 DA Polisher...

I used 1500, 1500 foam, 3000 foam and 5000 foam wet on both the 3M 6" and Griot's 3" based on where I was sanding... I could only find 3000 for hand sanding so did very little by hand...

I purchased 4 Menzerna products for compounding/polishing... FG 400 compound, SI 1500, SF 4000 and SF 4500... Found out quickly that I did not need the compound as that induced more scratches into the finish... So I buffed with the wool pad and SI 1500... Next step was orange pad on the PC with SI 1500 again... Swapped to a Blue pad and hit it with the SF 4000... Finally, swapped to red pad and used the SF 4500... As a final step, I wiped it down with some Zaino Gloss Enhancer Spray... Worked great for me and wasn't all that difficult... Take your time, and be careful on sharp edges and between panels...

A door would take less than an hour from start to finish... Bigger panels like the hood took 90-120 minutes from start of wet sanding to end of buffing...

Rogman

Daleford

Rogman......thanks for your story and tips.
I am still confused on sealers. I recall a pro telling me one time once you finish buffing, you have to seal before waxing???

porchdog

i use no sealer wax on my jobs. never have. i use mothers canuba wax.
here is a good link to do some research on buffing and detailing once your done. i have used these products for over 20 years.

http://www.chemicalguys.com/Body_Sho...ilicon_s/9.htm

rogman16

I contacted PPG about sealing/waxing... They said to let paint cure at least 90 days before sealing/waxing... So mine is just cut and buffed right now... Looks great, but has been covered in the garage since painting...

Rogman

porchdog

i put canuba on right after buffing. it does not seal the surface. todays urethanes really do not need it. the canuba makes it easier to clean. bugs and stuff come off much easier. but sealer is just going to lead to problems. there's a ton of solvents in it that wont be cured out in 90 days.
just my opinion and worth just what you paid for it ......

markids77

Plus one for a quality carnuba wax. In the 40 years I've cared for paint jobs I care about that's the only "protectant" my cars have ever seen. I have seen many many "miracle polymer" products come and go, but I can still buy good wax... I wonder why that is so?