I'll be recovered from surgery in about 3 months. Thinking about painting 96 at that time. Not a show car just a weekend driver but it does need paint. Can someone tell me the pluses and minuses with painting single stage vs two stage. I have never painted before and just wondering what I would be getting into so I am coming to the experts for advice. Thanks in advance for any input.

 

I would use basecoat/clearcoat regardless if it is going to be a solid color or a metallic/pearl color.

If it is going to be a metallic/pearl color. Shooting it in anything but a basecoat/clearcoat is a complete waste of time and money...regardless if it is daily driver or a trailer queen....IN MY OPINION.

Single stage "often times" is cheaper (dollar-wise).

A single stage color has no protection from bird droppings, tree sap stains, tar, etc. SO...the chance that something getting on it, can actually allow it to penetrate the color and stain it. Trying to paint a single stage metallic/pearl color can be done. But if you try to go in and buff/polish it. You will disturb the final coat where you got you color to look even...and now have a bunch of "blotches". This is why it is basic common knowledge among painters that we won't paint a car in a single stage metallic/pearl. Especially if we want it to look good for a long time and have the ability to buff/polish it.

Basecoat/clearcoat is an entirely different animal. Often times easier to apply and control and with the added protection of the clear being applied over the color...you now have the opportunity that the clear can be buffed/polished and look good and still have great UV protection and color hold-out...as long as you apply enough clear on it.

To be truthfully honest with you. Figuring out what type of paint you plan on using is great. But I am more concerned with the prep that has to be done on the car before you even think of pulling the trigger on the paint gun. IF you have never painted before. I WOULD HIGHLY SUGGEST that you practice on something first. Get a good feel for what you are doing and work out all of the "kinks" before you go an paint your car. I spend hours and hours getting things ready before I go in and suit-up and paint a car. There are so many things that you have to consider...but I am a professional...and I "shudder" when I see guys painting there car out in their backyard...getting trash and runs in it and then bring it by when it is done and say that it looks as good as one of my paint jobs. YEAH---RIGHT!!! The DIFFERENCE is that I know what I am doing and I HAVE a trained eye and know what I am looking at and how to repair it. It takes years to achieve this level of perfection and attention to detail. The "funny" thing is...YOU can do EXACTLY what I do. It all depends on what you want it to look like when it is done. I know you want a daily driver...but it goes more into how well you want it to look from 1 foot away, 5 feet away, 50 feet away, etc....or even if you care if it shines or not....or has texture in it so rough that you could break open you skin if you rub your hand on it. I have seen it be that bad before. SO this is why I would highly advise you to practice....because if you just jump in thinking that this is easy...and just "spray your heart out"....you might end up with a catastrophe. And TRUST ME...it is much better that you spend time getting comfortable and confident with your technique and equipment...instead of trying to back-track and fix a major screw-up. I have been there in the past...and it is NO PICNIC.

DUB

 

thanks for the advice. Not putting enough time into prep is not going to be a problem. I can be very patient on this. I believe in doing it right the first time instead of doing it twice, or more. My wife says i am too much of a perfectionist. Education in the different types of paint and the process is what i am lacking. I will probably br looking for more advice as I get closer to beginning this job. Thanks again for the info.

 

i forgot to say that I will be painting a solid color, torch red.

 

I just finished painting my car.I am already thinking about doing it over again.It looks good from about 5 feet, a good shine but many other problems.I read everything about painting a couple of years ago I painted a 69VW.When I started painting my car I ran into problems that I didn't see. I would say that I didn't know what questions to ask untill after the fact. Where are you going to do the painting? What compresser are you using,dose it have a dryer on it.Spray gun do not buy a cheap gun(under a $100) It would be nice to buy one of those $400 and up guns your compressor better be a big one.Do you like sanding?You will be doing a lot of that Type of paint (cost$$$$) I used a single stage black,I know black is the hard color to do.I stripped the car down to the glass did minor body work sparyed with epoxy primer(SPI go to there web site a lot of infor there) I used a omi paint bad coverage I had to sanding to try some problems with very little sanding with through to the primer.I sanded the car down to the primer. That was last year.This year I put a sealer coat of primer got a better gun (sharpXp3000)I used SPI ss black a much better paint I think they sell a ssred I did paint the car in my garage no paint booth big mistake a lot of dirt in the paint unable to sand it out
I hope I didnt scare you it is do able project Good luck VInce

 

When ever you are ready to start...post you questions.

The prep will also greatly depend on the condition of the surface of the car at the time of getting it ready to paint.

Like I tell a lot of people wanting to paint their own stuff is that FACTORY paint is the best primer out there...and if NOT re-painted on...an din good condition...it does not require stripping it off. NOW...this is dealing with your year era where GM had got there act together and got the paint to finally stick and not delaminate...like the earlier years of basecoat/clearcoat.

If it has been shot on...the chance that it was correctly prepped...is highly unlikely. And the chance that that paint can delaminate is more likely.

"Other" contributing factors do come into play...but that can be mentioned when you get closer.

Single stage red is very do-able...but I am so used to shooting the BC/CC...I have a hard time shooting something single stage...unless it is something other than a Corvette. But regardless of that...I would still guide you with my opinions....if needed.

DUB

 

You guys are full of great advice. Greatly appreciated. This is not the original paint on the car now. Ther is a couple of places where it is flaking off. One to two sguare inches in size. The paint is raised up around the edges.

 

I am not surprised...but I really hate to read that is has flaking issues. I would bet that the paint that is under the areas flaking off is shiny.

This coat or even other coats under is (not including the factory coat will more than likely need to be stripped off.

Flaking or raised paint around edges is a perfect sign that improper prep was performed before it was painted. If the paint or primer is not sanded COMPLETELY...especially to the edges...paint WILL NOT ADHERE....thus...in time...you have what you have now.

One bit of advice I can give you...and take it or leave it. But I would highly advise you in working only on ONE panel at a time. DO NOT look at the entire car as a whole...just the panel you are working on. This is usually a good strategy I tell people who do not do this for a living and this being the first paint job you are doing....and KNOWING that the prep is the most important part. If you think you are "Superman" and can get it all done quickly....and do not spend the time needed to address the issues you have...you will more than likely wear yourself out...get frustrated...and when you turn around and look at the car after you have worked on it all day...jumping from one area to another and NOTHING is 100% completed...it will make you lose you motivation...and then this is where you get sloppy...just like the guys before you did...and paint another pile of.....well you know.

Start with the headlight bezels and headlight doors. Something small that you can see what is going on...then the further you go in the process...you will have the knowledge and experience to tackle what will come up later....or at least not FREAK OUT and PANIC.

DUB

 

Tagging this thread too. I have never shot bc/cc, only single stage and laquer - a long time ago, only on motorcycles. If it's anything like Candy, it's gonna be a PITA.

 

No...it is NOT like shooting Candy. MUCH EASIER.

DUB

 

it's been about 3 months and I thought I would be starting shortly. I ended up having another surgery Dec.30th. I now have very limited use of my right hand and my right arm is weak. Doctors are trying to figure out my problem. Had back surgery in October and elbow surgery in Dec. Kind of putting my plans on hold, but not cancelled. Will be later starting but I am going to figure out a way to get this done.

 

I hope you get well fast.

For what it is worth...and not writing that you won't do this...But you better make sure you are 100% before you start to do this type of work...because you use muscles and actions that are not normally performed by the average person. Holding a paint gun and such can be harmful if you are not 100%.

DUB

 

I hope you get well soon. Take this time to research and make a plan of action. You could even start buying supplies for when you're ready. Keep faith that you will heal 100%!

 

Base coat / clear coat paint should be your only choice of paint. What choice of brand should be more of a consideration. Single stage paints still have there uses nowadays but mostly for fleet type service.

 

There are still a lot of single stage users out there but I am with you. Base/Clear is a superior way to do it. That's why manufacturers are doing base clear on 95%+ of cars now despite it being more costly.

 

I have heard that the cars have watercolor (waterbased) base coat and the solvent clear coat. Question for DUB and anyone else. I have been planning on single stage PPG DCC acrylic urethane ermine white for my '64. What significant protection would a urethane clear coat over urethane paint provide? In my pea brain, it would seem that touch ups (flaws and mistakes)with a single stage paint would be easier to correct.

 

I went to the doctor last week and got nothing. They are going to do a nerve study on my back and arm in June. I have about decided what I have now is what I will live with. Enough about my problems. I was talking to a man that does body work and he said he uses Marine Tex for body repairs. I know what Marine Tex is as I worked in the boat industry years ago. Have any of you experts used this or heard of using this on a corvette?

 

I have not used it...but does not mean SQUAT.

If you have used it...and your body man has used it and knows how to use it...and the correct product is used for the SMC...then it should work. The product does not know or care if it is going on a Corvette, boat or jet-ski or whatever.

I would verify the usage with their tech dept.

DUB

 

Finally had my last doctor appointment today. I have permanent damage to a nerve in my back and one in my arm. Looks like I won't be painting this car myself. Thanks for all the great info though. Maybe I will try painting something small later. Everybody have a safe and happy 4th. Thanks again.

 

I hate to hear of your bad news,hang in there.