I took all the paint off my 79, except for the door jambs. I will be painting the car the same color as the door jambs. Could I tape the jambs and repaint the rest of the car? Or could this lead to future problems. I know prolly take the doors off and do every thing

 

Yes, you can really do it anyway you like... Question is, will you down the road "wish" you would've spent a little more time to strip the jambs and repaint the entire car... You've ALREADY put a lot of time and effort into the project to now say, "well, that's good enough..." Again your project, your choice!!! No matter how careful you tape and prep, "you" will always see that paint line in the jambs if you don't go all the way... If you're good with that, press... IMHO, I say take the extra time to strip and prep the jambs...

All of this coming from a rookie, so please take it for what it is worth...

Rogman

 

I agree with painting the jambs. You will always see the paint line EVERY time you open your doors. My car was repainted that way before I bought it and I hate looking at my jambs. You can never regret doing something the right way.

 

Although you can hide the line and make it not noticeable...it takes so much effort and attention when painting.

Even if you can hide the line...the door jamb will look different than the 1/4 panel.

IN MY OPINION: AS stated in the two above posts...you car ---your choice. I myself would do it ALL...and the procedure will depend on if it is a solid color or metallic color ...which will dictate when the doors come off and go back on during the basecoating stage.

You can spend so much time on the jambs...this is why people often times do not do them. If they are not done correctly...they will look like crap and paint will fail due to trying to prep them as quickly as possible. To me...the jambs are the FIRST spot I look when looking at a paint job...it sets the stage on whether the job is a OK job...or a GREAT job....then I look at other areas if the jambs "pass".

Nothing is worse than having an exterior look SUPER SWEET and when the doors and hood are opened/raised...it just looses its appeal if these areas do not match the attention that was spent on the exterior...right on the spot.

DUB

 

Ok.....doors are coming off as is the paint on the jambs ,
Thanks guys

 

It may be more work and take longer. But its a decision you wont regret. Please let us know how it goes and post pics!

 

Rogman

 

I SECOND THAT!!!!

Especially if it is metallic color.

DUB

 

Remember to use the same type of paint for the inside of the door as you used for its exterior and the rest of the vehicle. Though once in a while it works, do not mix single stage and base coat/clear coat. It will be quite noticeable.

 

Doors are off. Jams sanded. Love bugs gone. Rain gone. Car taped.
Primer tomorrow......finally.
Then...... More sanding.

 

Hope it goes well. Just check your tape if it sat on the car over night...sometimes it can release and need to be pressed back down and sealed to stop overspray.

DUB

 

Priming went well, however when I removed all the paint with a razor blade I did gouge it. I thought I repaired them with vpa.
Now keep in mind the SMc is grey and it was difficult to see all the imperfections so I used a black epoxy primer. Wow that made the blemishes show. Now what I use or do to fix I'm ?

 

Glazing putty?

 

You can use it if you like. In the past I used it from time to time in really small areas...such as what you have...but finally got used to using VPA...so I do not use the glazing putty any longer due to it being so soft.

I know that you can apply a filler on top of an epoxy primer....but where I have problems with that philosophy...is that the thickness of the epoxy primer is 'X'...and when I apply a filler on top of it that will harden up more than the epoxy itself. So...I have a hard body material (SMC)...then a soft epoxy primer that will take time to totally cure....when a filler that is hard again. I am worried about some shrinkage that can occur in time....especially on the top surfaces where the engine compartment heat and sun can get the surface hotter....than the area down behind the rear wheel. Super small repair/fill areas should be fine...versus you applying patch that is as a big as a dollar bill. BUT...if it is on a dark color ( which shows up stuff easier)...I have such a trained eye...I can pick up on small things that just bother me....which can be avoided if procedure is changed. If I had to go in and fill areas that I missed....depending on how deep they actually are....I would either primer over them...because I prime the car...block it...prime it again. So small nicks will fill in. A DEEP GOUGE ....I would do it differently due to I do not epoxy prime the surface. I use another primer that does not fail and delaminate or flake. But in your case...when I used to do it that way....I would take the corner of a singe edged razor blade and dig out the epoxy in the deep gouge thoroughly....remove some of the epoxy around it so when I went and filled it in...I DID NOT allow any of my filler to get on the epoxy primer...then I would sand it down and apply the epoxy again over these small spots...then prime or that as normal.

DUB

 

isn't Glazing putty (really) old school stuff we used back in the 70's - now replaced with much better stuff?

 

YES.... The current glazing putties that use a hardener are called 'putties' also. I keep forgetting that many people 'should know' that any filler or glazing putty that they apply to their car should be the type that uses a hardener to make it harden (obviously). The 'old school' crappy putty that dries over time is just that...it is crap.

Not only that...if a paint and body supplier sells (or even stocks) the 'old school' crappy putty to a person...they need to be smacked upside the head.

DUB

 

Reckon I am showing my age

 

here's some pics I think
don't know why some are upside down

 

shoulda bought a hood that hood scoop was a son of a gun

 

tgcattle,

I have to ask you....what is that black coating on the hood???? I guess the hood scoop is black gel coat and the black on the hood away from it may be the factory primer....am I correct in this?

The photo of the hood has got me as nervous as a long tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs.

And I guess that you bonded the hood scoop on also...correct???

It looks like Vette Panel Adhesive was used on the hood....am I correct in this assumption????

DUB