Next Step...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 148
Likes: 2
From: Lake Mary FL
Next Step...
Well after 2.5 years and many many mistakes and reworks, I finally have base and clear on the car. In several areas where I put the clear on a little too heavy I got a generous dose of solvent pop and a wee bit more orange peel that I can live with. It's okay though, I expected the orange peel and planned on color sanding. Overall I am extremely happy with the results so no complaints. I do want to finish it off properly though.
I used sherwin Williams Dimension base/clear. Since I had some solvent pop should I wait a few weeks or months before color sanding to see if more comes out? If I color sand do I sand all of the clear off in the bad areas and spray a couple of light coats over the whole panel?
What kind of information do you need from me to help me from here?
I used sherwin Williams Dimension base/clear. Since I had some solvent pop should I wait a few weeks or months before color sanding to see if more comes out? If I color sand do I sand all of the clear off in the bad areas and spray a couple of light coats over the whole panel?
What kind of information do you need from me to help me from here?
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 4,017
Likes: 492
From: Poughkeepsie New York
Well after 2.5 years and many many mistakes and reworks, I finally have base and clear on the car. In several areas where I put the clear on a little too heavy I got a generous dose of solvent pop and a wee bit more orange peel that I can live with. It's okay though, I expected the orange peel and planned on color sanding. Overall I am extremely happy with the results so no complaints. I do want to finish it off properly though. I used sherwin Williams Dimension base/clear. Since I had some solvent pop should I wait a few weeks or months before color sanding to see if more comes out? If I color sand do I sand all of the clear off in the bad areas and spray a couple of light coats over the whole panel? What kind of information do you need from me to help me from here?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 148
Likes: 2
From: Lake Mary FL
Good advice. I did call the tech line and got a knowledgable technician. I'm going to dull the surface with 1,000 grit and get a couple more thin coats on before I start to color sand. I'll probably take my time on this part as he warned me about getting too aggressive and going through to the base.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
SOLVENT POP = BAD NEWS.
Not knowing if they told you how to get the bubbles filled in. The "problem " with trying to fill in a solvent pop...is that when you sand it...the round bubble is now an open cup. When applying clear....the clear due to being so thick WILL NOT want to fill in the small cup. I have found that when i had solvent pop back in the day. I would reduce the clear really thin and shoot it. Due to being so thin...much like the consistency of lacquer paint....it would be runny enough to fill in the small cups. It may take a few coats...but I have repaired many solvent pops in this manner.
You will have to move quick and watch the clear. You still want it slick and shiny...but not putting a lot on in a coat...or it may run due to being so thin...and being thinned out a lot...should not effect the curing of the clear ( it never hurt my clear in drying) due to you are only adding a reducer/thinner to your needs. Due to being thinned out a lot and applied thin...ti will flash faster and allow you to go in much sooner than normal.
DUB
Not knowing if they told you how to get the bubbles filled in. The "problem " with trying to fill in a solvent pop...is that when you sand it...the round bubble is now an open cup. When applying clear....the clear due to being so thick WILL NOT want to fill in the small cup. I have found that when i had solvent pop back in the day. I would reduce the clear really thin and shoot it. Due to being so thin...much like the consistency of lacquer paint....it would be runny enough to fill in the small cups. It may take a few coats...but I have repaired many solvent pops in this manner.
You will have to move quick and watch the clear. You still want it slick and shiny...but not putting a lot on in a coat...or it may run due to being so thin...and being thinned out a lot...should not effect the curing of the clear ( it never hurt my clear in drying) due to you are only adding a reducer/thinner to your needs. Due to being thinned out a lot and applied thin...ti will flash faster and allow you to go in much sooner than normal.
DUB
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
TEST your mix on something first. It should go down shiny and slick.
Remember...you can always add more reducer/thinner...but can never take it out.
You will know that your mix is not thin enough by when you shoot over the solvent pops that are super, super small...and the clear actually looks like a fish-eye and creates a crater around the solvent pop cup...instead of flowing into it and filling it up.
DUB
