Looks great!
Paint is done
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 275
Likes: 1
From: Lafayette/marquez La/tx
Looking back it has been over a year since I was backed into. Almost a year since I drove my Car Last. I have Not even tested my Rpm Manifold. I AM waiting on new weather-strip- I have color Sanded and cut, but Not buffed yet. I Bought New carpet. Thinks for all ya'll's help
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
Just keep this in mind when buffing and you should not have a problem.
ALWAYS....(or as much as possible) make sure that the rotation of your buffing pad,etc....is rolling off an edge....and NOT going into to. if you do that.....it is very hard to cut through paint on edges...UNLESS you are an IDIOT and stay in one spot and NOT pay attention to what the paint is 'telling you'. IF your buffing pad is rotating INTO an edge and grabbing...it will take less than a second to ruin what you have done.
Also...I would HIGHLY suggest a variable speed buffer. This way you can control the speed and when in 'touchy areas'...not have to worry about burning your paint. But...you have to remember that I have burned so many lacquer paint jobs back in the day...I mastered a buffer rather quickly....because I HAD TO. It has everything to do with knowing how a buffer works. Such as where the pad contacts is where you are actually buffing, the amount of compound, etc. applied,...the amount of pressure applied, how you sanded it to make the buffing go easier,faster...and how you move the buffer to achieve a high gloss and not excessively heat up the clear....which also depends on what type of clear you applied and how it needs to be buffed and when to begin buffing it.
So...there will be times when trying to position the buffer to roll off the edge is extremely hard to do or not possible....and this is where the suggestion that 'porchdog' wrote can come into use. AND...if you run into this scenario...and have a variable speed buffer....you can run the buffer on the slowest speed and it is still faster than doing it by hand....but that also depends on how you buff it and how much pressure you apply as mentioned.
DUB
ALWAYS....(or as much as possible) make sure that the rotation of your buffing pad,etc....is rolling off an edge....and NOT going into to. if you do that.....it is very hard to cut through paint on edges...UNLESS you are an IDIOT and stay in one spot and NOT pay attention to what the paint is 'telling you'. IF your buffing pad is rotating INTO an edge and grabbing...it will take less than a second to ruin what you have done.
Also...I would HIGHLY suggest a variable speed buffer. This way you can control the speed and when in 'touchy areas'...not have to worry about burning your paint. But...you have to remember that I have burned so many lacquer paint jobs back in the day...I mastered a buffer rather quickly....because I HAD TO. It has everything to do with knowing how a buffer works. Such as where the pad contacts is where you are actually buffing, the amount of compound, etc. applied,...the amount of pressure applied, how you sanded it to make the buffing go easier,faster...and how you move the buffer to achieve a high gloss and not excessively heat up the clear....which also depends on what type of clear you applied and how it needs to be buffed and when to begin buffing it.
So...there will be times when trying to position the buffer to roll off the edge is extremely hard to do or not possible....and this is where the suggestion that 'porchdog' wrote can come into use. AND...if you run into this scenario...and have a variable speed buffer....you can run the buffer on the slowest speed and it is still faster than doing it by hand....but that also depends on how you buff it and how much pressure you apply as mentioned.
DUB
