This is PPG clear over silver metallic. Can this be fixed without repainting the whole thing? I did take care to keep extra base coat.

 

You can blend in your base color over the repair, but you'll have to clear the entire t-top. At least it's a small piece.

 

I was thinking about trying to sand off most of the clear in the cracked area and then flooding it with very dilute clear to try to bridge the cracks. If the cracks are deeper than the clear, that won't work. And yes, reclearing the whole top.

I think once I touch the color I am screwed

 

You have distressed SMC. If it were me...I would repair the cracks and then carefully blend out the color. You 'blessing' is that it is at the end of the panel and blowing the base coat to blend it toward the center of the top should work well...and NOT throw off the color that much (if any) where this area meets the 'B' pillar/roof line.

To make this end of the top do this...it took quite a hit.

DUB

 

It was not a happy occasion, it slid off the rear deck onto the driveway. I was horrified as the paint was near perfect for an amateur. It was in a pouch but that didn't cushion it much (that area is actually at the center of the windshield, not the B-pillar).

I think the cracks are just shock to the clear coat and not in the fiberglass. I suppose I have nothing to lose by trying to blend it. My understanding is the clear can't be blended, it will show the edge somehow.

Check me on this:

1. The good clear has to be feathered into the base
2. I will end up cutting into the base
3. The clear also gets roughed up everywhere else for adhesion
4. Then the new base overlays the feathered portion. I am thinking airbrush
5. The whole business then gets another coat of clear

Thanks for weighing in on this!

 

That's a good plan of attack. But from what I can see in your picture, I see good amount of sanding, maybe some light grinding to relieve the stress in the damaged area, VPA, primer, then on to your plan above. I don't think the cracks are just shock to the clear coat. The fiberglass had to move quite a bit to do that to the clear coat. As DUB stated above, you have distressed the fiberglass below the entire paint job. I'm sure DUB, PD or one of the other professionals will solidify the plan of attack. They may recommend a little glassing after relieving the stress cracks. Probably will need a few more pictures after it's exposed. Good luck.

 

Do as you wish...but I will write this.

Using an airbrush is fine...But do NOT be surprised if the color comes out brighter/lighter/cleaner....due to the orifice you are shooting the paint through is so much smaller than the gun you used to paint the car. This MAKES A difference...ESPECIALLY in metallic colors. Just be aware of this. I use an airbrush when needed from time to time...but I also know what I need to do to make the color match.

The odds that you do not have damaged SMC is highly unlikely. For it to damage the paint like your photo shows...pretty much proves it. That top took a serious hit....and do not ask me how I know this....I have seen enough of this stuff over the years...but do not believe me....fix it how you see fit.

I can not turn back time and make this go away....which I know you are not asking me to do...but I am TRYING to let you know from experience...what you have going on here. I would bet A LOT...that if that top were in my hands..I could grab that edge and bend it and see the crack open up....and it may be enough where I do not need to magnify this area....and IF the crack does open up...I would LOVE for someone to TELL ME how to shoot a material over the cracks and NOT EVER have them re-surface or show up again. I WOULD LOVE THAT...

You car..do as you wish...obviously...I am done on this....and truly wish you the best.

DUB

 

Don't worry, I will approach this cautiously and systematically. We'll see what's there. As far as minor cracks, I've had great success with cyanocrylic, the liquid form. Had quite a few stress cracks in my surround before I painted and none have come back.

Airbrush, well I was sort of fishing for comments. The other concern I have is ending up respraying the whole panel and not having it match the other, for all the reasons that happens.

The bigger concern I have is feathering the clear and having something show.

Be a while before I attack this but wanted to have some opinions to mull over. thanks both of you

 

Do not feather the clear. After damage is properly repaired, color is blended out beyond the repair area (not the complete panel) and the complete panel is clear coated. Not with an airbrush.

 

OK...I am back in.

ignatz,
I understand what you mean by 'feathering the clear. It has NOTHING to do with shooting the clear on the T-top...but rather when you are sanding the clear and paint.

Depending on 'how fresh' this paint job is....will determine the outcome when completed in time. TIME is the determining factor.

Obviously I do not have a 'crystal ball'...but I do know paint and how the layers work with each other over time when a repair like this is being done.

just remember...that the chance that this are may need to be touched up again in a year or so is possible...but this is also determined by what was used on the panel initially. If the panel was stripped all the way down to bare SMC/fiberglass...then primed and painted and cleared...for example. When you go through each of these layers...even though they all cross-linked and bonded to each other.....when you go in and then spray a product on these exposed layers...due to feathering them out....the solvents in the products you apply can and will attack these layers differently. The reaction may not be noticeable...but in time...when these products cure out and shrink down...the 'rings' of your exposed feathered area can show up at eh correct angle. I am not saying that it WEILL happen...I am saying it CAN happen.....which is why the age of the paint somewhat makes a difference.

Also as mentioned before...you blessing is where the damage is located....this is an easy spot in....due to being on the edge...own low on the panel. And being in a curve..the light acts differently and can hide small 'issues'...VERSUS if the t-top had to be spotted in the dead center of the panel. If this damage where on any other panels edge...where there is a panel beside it... I would worry about throwing the color off enough that you could see it due to NOT blending into the adjacent panel.......but where this is...you are lucky....SERIOUSLY.

DUB

 

I think the feathered area is where the new base overlays the old clear.

 

You drawing is not making any sense.

Is the 'old base, etc and old clear' actually the CURRENT paint that can be seen in the photo of the top you posted???

OR...

Is it the factory paint that was still on the car when you painted it BEFORE the top got damaged????

I will write this...in regards to your drawing above. IF you stop sanding and still leave cracks ...like your drawing shows...you might get the base to cover the cracks....but due to the cracks still being there...it will come back....due to the moisture that is NOW in these cracks. Once sealed up with base...can and more than likely swell and cause your repair to show up looking like a raised area...where the moisture is trying to get out.

DUB

 

The drawing is supposed to show the situation after repainting. So "old base", etc is what is there now. The jagged line shows sanding down remove the clear, and expose the color and cracks. The cracks get filled with super glue and I spray color back to where the clear was sanded away. So the feathering is color going on top of a thin layer of clear. I thought we'd agreed on what feathering meant but drew this picture just to be clear.

Then new clear goes over that and the rest of the top.

And there ain't no moisture here in CA!

 

OK then.

I understand....clear as a bell...but if you are going down to the paint...and having to apply paint to get it to match....WHY leave the cracks. The second you break through the clearcoat...the dynamics of the repair change in regards to solvent sensitivity to different sprayed products.

I hope you 'trick' of using super glue works. But I know paint and also know about super glue...it makes no sense. It can fail and you can possibly run into shear issues when the super glue releases off the basecoat.

Obviously it is your car...I know I could not do that and charge money for it....because with my luck...I would have to do it again..which is something I strive to not do.

Hope it all goes well.

DUB