I have a number of varied questions.

The first is about gelcoat. It seems that most people wait to spray the entire body with gelcoat. I would like to spray 1 to 2 parts at a time to assist with blocking, etc. Is this recommended?

I have had to do quite a few repairs on the underside, fender wells, firewall, etc. and plan to paint it all. Should I gelcoat those areas as well (they have been sanded/stripped) or use something like slicksand or just use a good primer?

 

You can apply the gelcoat as you like...one panel at a time if you choose...BUT...the time to clean equipment will ALWAYS BEE THERE....which is why when I go to apply the gelcoat...I make it worthwhile and do as much as possible.

i do not understand what you meant by "to assist with blocking".

Painting it with what??? Body color or just black???? If you are wanting your floorpans, firewall etc. as sweet and slick as the outside of the car. You can use 'Slicksand' if you want....or gelcoat it also and get it sealed up and protected even more. It depends on the level of perfection you are looking for and if you have an issue due to some unforeseen problem in the future...IF what you did is so perfect and slick that it will be a nightmare to repair due to it being so perfect.

DUB

 

Hi Dub,

I mentioned "blocking" because you indicated that you shouldn't put anything on the fiberglass except VPA; then you gelcoat. I had mentioned before some kind of guide coat to help me get the panels and lines straight but you said I shouldn't. I need some guidance here. I obviously don't have 1/1000 the talent you have to feel out everything with my hand and get it right before applying the gelcoat. So my idea was to do all my glassing and VPA'ing to the best of my ability (blocking that of course) and then gelcoat one to two pieces at at a time. Then block that to really get stuff straight. Is this a good idea?

As for underneath and the interior - I want to paint everything black. I am not going for NCRS or trailer queen but I want it to look nice. Is slicksand good for primering these parts?

 

OK...I understand.

YES...trying to get the body as good as possible is BEST prior to spraying anything....so...You idea of doing a few panels at a time is acceptable. AND if you feel that you are removing a lot of the gelcoat to get the panel straight....then it may need to be re-applied. SO...knowing that this is your 'maiden voyage' on this...it would be in your BEST INTERESTS to shoot some other small flat panel s you will know for a FACT on how much gelcoat you are applying. THEN sand this test panel like what you are doing to your other body panels and MEASURE it to TRY TO at least have 20 MILS of gelcoat when completed.

YES...Slicksand is good for that.....BUT...also remember that it also requires sanding....so applying it slick and smooth and NOT DRY is also in your best interests.....even if you have to slightly reduce it to thin it out slightly after the first initial coat. POSSIBLY shooting a test panels would also be in your best interests...so you do not just jump in and spray your body and it is dry as heck and ROYAL pain to prep for paint.

Depending on how well prepped you firewall and others areas are...Applying a black epoxy primer can work also...and then apply paint again right on it after it has been allowed to flash of as designed...and SAVES ON SANDING. BUT...as I wrote...it will depend on how it is now and what you are willing to live with.

SO it will all depend.

ONCE AGAIN...TRUST ME....do yourself a BIG favor and TEST anything you plan on shooting...and this will also allow you to experiment and change the settings on the paint gun in regards to air pressure and fan width so you can get primer/paint in tight pocket areas wet and not have them be DRY and grainy. NOWHERE is it written that you HAVE to always have to pull the trigger all the way....and that the air pressure HAS TO BE XXpsi. Often times I have the air pressure low and I am shooting the primer/paint in a straight stream....BUT...I know how to 'feather the trigger' ( very lightly pulling back on the trigger and WATCHING what the paint does/is doing) and control the amount of paint that will FLOOD out of the gun in this procedure...>HENCE...why I wrote...TEST!!!!

Prime/paint the inside of a MAXWELL HOUSE coffee can...and you will see what I mean. Getting the inside of the can slick/smooth...and not a million runs...or DRY SPRAY and NOT all blowing back in your FACE...that is what can happen in numerous area of your body when you have 'pockets'....such as where your hinges come out of the 'A' pillar.

DUB